im3crazy

+1 on the leave as-is approach. It's not for everybody, but I really appreciate and am proud of the age/wear on my '69 -02 roundels.

Option? I was considering this 4000 lb cap jack from Home Depot. $130. I liked the idea of the large jacking area if needed (trannys, diffs etc) and the safety pin looked about as safe as it's gonna get. I still use jack stands. Anybody have experience with this model or one like it?? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-4000-lb-Triple-Lift-Floor-Jack-620422/203116734

Looking for a good condition operational (such as they ever were) ZF 3 speed complete auto transmission. Shipping to Baltimore, MD Need asap (posted 9/20/2014) dave@flyingtigertransport.com Thanks. Location: baltimore, MD USA

Thanks guys. I was hoping to pick one up local , the bone yard I go to has everything, but it's a couple hours in/out. So any 45mm euro cap will work?? If this works the whole rig costs about $20 w/o the cap, so I'm hopeful. Really over trying to bleed these...I may be lookin for a master cylinder, I think all that pumping finally did it in!

I built a HomeDepot DIY pressure brake bleeder and thought the aftermarket cap I bought would work. Wrong. The one spec'd was for a "late model GM" and is not compatible with the threads. Anyone know what aftermarket caps will work on the 02?? A cross ref # would be greatly appreciated. Any ideas?? Thanks!

. You might also consider what happens if someone over torques the transmission output nut. I had this happen during a guibo install to >100 ft lbs and it pulled the output gear shaft too far back to stay in gear. I have a post on the experience and a new getrag 245 install.

Thanks guys. Thought this was a piece of crap. Finally figured out that my distributor's vacuum advance doesn't work- no diaphragm! Guess it's new dizzy or find the part time. Any ideas on a dizzy rebuild vs. "new" dizzy??

I rebuilt my 32/36 and started to set the carb up yesterday and noticed that my vacuum distributor advance was bypassed. I was hooking it back up and noticed a sticker on the hood that says "This car is equipped with a Karkit, do not reconnect the vacuum advance." I have no idea what a Karkit is. Anybody have a clue?? Thanks.

I'm fairly sure there are attachment points in a USA 76 model. Other's here can confirm/deny if this is the case. My 69 USA has them. If you search you will find a set of pics of belt installs. I think Bill Williams here in MD has a set of pics that show the rear belts.

What belts are you looking for? 3 point or just lap? Depending on ur year you may have bolt hole receivers in your floor.search "seatbelts" on the forum for some good pics. I may have a set of rear lap only retractable. Dave in Baltimore, MD

Both are doable if you understand the installation process and are up for a moderate challenge. If you want a very reliable local shop I recommend Smith's in Baltimore on Caroline street. I've used them for 30 years for glass, upholstery, vert tops and headliners. They have always done consistently good work at a competitive price, on time, and no surprises. http://smithautoglass.com/ I'm in PIkesville off Old Court Rd. Dave in Baltimore.

I usually purchase my Bosch parts from Rally Lights (Susquehanna) and their site has a number of good wiring references and guidelines. I've been very satisfied with the fog lamp relays and wiring in installed a few years back, and the heavy gauge wire made a significant difference in the voltage drop at the lights ( only 1/4 volt lower now that the 2 volts on the older PO wiring). http://www.rallylights.com/auxiliary-lamp-wiring

Attached are two wiring diagrams that show the horn, relay, fuse connection, and horn ring grounding point. My experience with horn problems in order of failure (except wire and connector and ground faults esp at steering column) are: (1) fuse, (2) relay contacts or relay itself, (3) carbon pin in steering wheel popped, and (4) horn units.

Thanks. Here's a detailed description of the wiring and what functions are related to each terminal. This will help if troubleshooting. The relay is a timer relay. When stalk switch closes momentarily (brn/blk) it grounds terminal 31b on the under hood relay. This does two things (1) it starts the washer motor, and (2) it heats up the curved strip in figure 18 in the wire diagram. The strip expands and connects to terminal M triggering the Wiper Motor thru terminal 53 (BLK wire) for about 5 seconds. Normal operation: Power is supplied from fuse #6 (YEL/BLU) wire to + marked terminal on dash mounted switch, Figure 23 wire diagram; note this wire also leaves this terminal to power other devices from the dash switch not related to wiper. Two wires provide High or Low operation; YEL (low speed) wire from terminal 53b to corresponding 53b on wiper motor; and BLK from switch terminal 53 to same 53 terminal to motor (center conductor); 53a on switch is + power from fuse #6 YEL/BLU (this connection is the single connection on one side of dash switch in case you can’t see the terminal marking). Note that the wiper motor also has a 53a terminal that gets the same power from fuse #6 , also YEL/BLU. This allows the motor internal contacts to “Park” the wipers in the correct position when the switch or the relay power is turned off. This is often the source of confusion on setup, and frequently this contact set in the wiper motor faults. This fault can result in a run-on motor, or no parking. Lastly, the wiper motor’s 4th wire is a ground BRN (grounds and negative connections nearly always are BRN). Please make certain this is grounded well (shares ground with the heater blower motor ground point). I've attached a wire diagram confirming yours. bmw2002-usa-early pre71.pdf

So I know the right wire diagram, what year is the 02? Stock wiring, or wire harness upgrade?? Thanks

Maybe the site needs a listing of suspect emails and user names and related info when they prove out to be phonies?? I 'm a cyber security guy, and you really have to trust your intuition on these guys. Some are so good they are going to get us. I always check the "good reports" section to see if the seller has a good track record. But, bad guys are good at being imposters. I don't like the Paypal rates, AND I have had security issues with Paypal (solved with my two factor ID smart card) but unless they have a proven track record on the sites I frequent, I'm using PayPal (not an endorsement, just our policy) or if I'm selling a USPS money order in advance.

Good documentation. I'm doing this as well for the same reasons. Well done.

my confidence is high that #1is go for liftoff.......

ALSO- search here on the forum for DIN WIRING STANDARDS article. Links to other sources may be changed in the future, but the local article will hopefully still remain.

WTB: Cold air intake hose for stock air cleaner. In good or better condition. Shipping to Baltimore MD 21208

WTB: 4 way flasher switch; ONLY NEW, NOS, or unused condition; prefer in box. 61311356193 Shipping to Baltimore, MD 21208 Confirmed PayPal here.

These are two Command Electronics high brightness DOT units- Clear plastic, but red LEDs. One mounterd on each side just under rear headliner using common steel two-hole angle straps bent 66 degrees. A trailer module controls these two wire units for compatibility. Shown is the "tail light" display. Turn signals light all LEDS on either Left or Right side and are very noticable. Stop inidcation lights all LEDS on both sides and is very bright during bright daylight and a little overwhelming at night. The first time I tested these inside the house it really stunned my vision for a few moments: these are seriously bright. Installation was very simple and took about 3 hours to wire in the module and the two units; mounting took about an hour and was straight forward. The feed wire just clips to the DS headliner down to the controls so I can remove both the units and the wiring if necessary. I use one or two of these in all our restorations and have been very happy with the respone on the road. I will update post with turns and brake pics day/nite shots when I can get them. ONE TAP ON THE BRAKE OR 4 WAYS AND CLOSELY FOLLOWING DRIVERS BACK RIGHT OFF!

I posted on this a few years back but it seems still to be a hot topic. A 3rd brake light just didn't seem conspicuous enough. Drivers are more engaged with a high tail, stop , and turn signal than just a brake-only lamp. I've installed two "Command Electronics" clear Stop/Tail/Turn lamps just under the headliner on left and right sides. These are freaking lasers. They are installed off the rear light circuit using a "trailer" module that controls the lights. I have a switch that engages these (which I always keep on) and the units are removable for purists. Pics provided if requested. http://www.commandel...ail-lights.html HOTLINE CLEAR FOR STOP TAIL TURN.pdf

Ditto with JackF for the battery disconnect as a security and safety measure. You can get creative on hiding a low current switch and use a relay in series with the IGN to starter solenoid circuit from iGN switch. RS sells very small low current switches easy to hide under dash.