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im3crazy

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  1. im3crazy
    Looks. Like I'll have to get my 245 getrag rebuilt or replaced. Not happy but moving forward. Any suggestions for rebuilds or good used suppliers. I know of metric mechanics but hoping to find cheaper approach. I'm in Baltimore . Thanks.
  2. im3crazy
    Did have them check those bolts. They told me on the 245 the bolt pattern didnt matter. Seems whatever they did the shaft now moves rearward when they tighten the flange. I've sent them the 245. Conversion manual u guys put together. No luck. Why would that. Shaft move like that? All help appreciated.
  3. im3crazy
    Did have them check those bolts. They told me on the 245 the bolt pattern didnt matter. Seems whatever they did the shaft now moves rearward when they tighten the flange. I've sent them the 245. Conversion manual u guys put together. No luck. Why would that. Shaft move like that? All help appreciated.
  4. im3crazy
    I posted on this a few weeks back.. here I go again. Took my 69 02 5 speed conversion in for a rear tail seal. On the way in it drove and shifted fine- after the shop changed the seal - no shift- stuck in gear. They got it out of gear, but it still wouldn't shift right. Any ideas what they could have done - or what might have happened to make it lose shifting?? This is a highly reputable shop, but not working yet. They're talking about shims and other parts that they shouldnt have to have messed with. I'm close to buying another tranny. Any ideas on WTF is going on here? Also- any suggestions on replacement 5 speed supplier.
  5. im3crazy
    update: Mechanic says the box will not shift. It stays in one gear. I've passed on the 1 o'clock bolt placement requirement- never knew that! Hope that's the problem - I'd for just once like to see a simple problem solved! They did do work on the shifter tower (helicoiled a stripped hole), but they say it didnt go all way through, and its unlikely they dropped anything down into the tranny. All I know is it shifted fine when I brought it in, and it shifted fine for them until the rear seal change out. When they tried a test drive, it was in a single gear.
  6. im3crazy
    Had a transmission tail seal replaced at a reliable local garage and now it won't come out of gear when clutching. U can shift around and gearbox feels it can select a gear but it stays engaged. Mechanic says he heard a POP just before the in gear problem. Any thoughts? Other than clutch plate or throwout bearing?? Thanks.
  7. im3crazy
    Susquehanna Motor Sports had a great price on the chrome-backed 160's last year. Also can provide a really nice harness assembly. Use an aux mouting bracket as mentioned above, or u get really wicked bumper flexc and jouncing lights.
  8. im3crazy
    a few weeks back i posted a foam in place bass woofer box which is working really well. not boomy -unless u want to be, and fits perfectly under rear seat space. the foam box dimensions (cubic displacement) are exactly to speaker specs. do a quick search on bass woofer foam box and i'm sure it will come up. im really happy with it all ways around.
  9. im3crazy
    Here's a great site that provides good examples of how to do the doors. I've rekeyed a number of these using the "trim down" method, and it works well and is easy to do. http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/doorlocks/doorlocks.html Dave
  10. im3crazy
    front pics - I taped cardboard to the kick panel areas so I could make a mould of the front kick space areas and the speaker recesses. Then I used the HILTI can foam to fill the moulds to make the speaker "boxes." After a little trimming, these fit exactly into the kickspace areas. The speakers are attached using toggle bolts and backing washers. I made sure there was a channel behind the speaker to the openings in the kickpanels to the body. I filled the body cavity with dampening fiberglass, and screwed the enclosures to the kick panels using ~5" self tapping screws. Carpet, which I carefully cut back, was refitted onto the foam and fastened with upholstery screw pins. I did not need any additional carpet to cover these enclsures. Crossovers attached above the enclosures, and tweeters (purists, do not read any further and avert your eyes) were mounted on the dash. Wires (24awg) were taken thru two 1/16" holes in the dash - not perceptable and fully reversable.
  11. im3crazy
    Here's what I did. I wanted to use every square inch of space needed for a 10" woofer. I calculated the Cu Ft requirement then built a double-walled cardboard box. I taped the base and sides of the box to the floor, hump, and sides, then used HILTI foam to fill the box walls. This gave me a very compliant and fully dampened enclosure. I used toggle bolts inserts to screw down a 3/4" plywood top. Two runs of dense foam (window weather strip) was used to seal the top to the base. It's fully airtight and has great bass response. To make sure of seat clearance I added 2 14" 2x2 to the top of the bulkhead on which the seat rests. This gives a nice opening for the bass, but didt raise the seat much. Perfect clearance. I used the same approach for front speakers which were foamed into boxes moulded to the kick=-panel areas. I have pics of these if u want them. The 10" woofer is perfect for the car and has its own 500 watt amp in the trunk. Best of luck which ever way you go.
  12. im3crazy
    Tracking the fault can really drive you nuts. I've had faults in both the Wisch-wasch "control relay" see figure 50 on the schematic, and with damaged or mismatched wiper stalks. Power comes from fuse #5 to the wiper, and also from this relay when the wiper stalk switch is engaged. It's best to trace the power along it's path to the relay, the stalk switch, and back again to the relay. If you're not getting power at some point, this is the fault. Draw and mark these points on the circuit diagram as suggested above. Trace power through the two components until you don't get it out the expected terminal. Assuming you have already checked (metered both side of fuse #5). Most often replacing the Wisch-wasch relay solves the problem - but connectors (item 56) also needs to be checked to make sure they're mating correctly- or that corrosion hasn't caused problems. If the washer cycle doesn't work either, I'd reseat the Wisch-wasch relay, and meter blk/white and blk/yel for power out at this relay. You also should verify the relay is grounded thru the Brown line leading to a screw under the dash as ground point - if you can't turn on your interior light using the switch on it - this may be the problem. Take lots of time to do this step by step. Best of luck.
  13. im3crazy
    Check out this link inside the FAQ - near bottom. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,0/page,viewtopic/t,277647/postdays,0/postorder,asc/topic_view,/start,120/sid,6797e01795cc605d2f6680548a9047a2/ Road to Phoenix- posts. incredible job!
  14. im3crazy
    Did quite a bit of searching and finally found these quoted on the FAQ in multiple locations. to summarize: Battery tray: ~ 9.5" x 7" (1974 version) BCI battery sizes that are know to fit: 42 9 5/16 X 6 13/16 X 6 13/16 CCA range 260-495 26R 8 3/16 X 6 13/16 X 7 3/4 CCA range ~400-525 Optima Red: stated to fit ok. This cross-over chart may also help: http://www.batteryweb.com/pdf/Odssey-BCI-Conversion.pdf I verified the sizes on several web sites- however, there are errors and many minor size variations stated out there in these BCI sizes.
  15. im3crazy
    Thanks for bringing the hypoid gear oil to my attention... I did not realize the spec for ther man trans is 80 gear oil, not hypoid gear oil. I'll change back to regulart gear oil in the repair process - which I hope to get to soon.
  16. im3crazy
    thanks Bill. I got back in town ok, but it's hard to tell how much/ at what rate I'm losing the fluid. 'm not sure I want to tackle this myself having never chagned a rear trans seal. It did shift and sound fine when filled - amazing what a little hypoid gear oil will do!
  17. im3crazy
    Just read Bill William's 4/15 thread on center bearing and oil leak. Must be that time of year for leaks and weird noises! I'm on a road trip in Lancaster PA and lost synchro with hard shifting and heard a noise from the tranny. Parked and noticed a nickel-sized leak. A quick trip to a local garage showed the tranny was dry. Seems I have a leak at the rear shaft seal. Any suggstions on next steps and recommendations for this seal problem, and for a local (Baltimore MD) shop that can handle the seal change-out and verify the 5-speed changeover was done correctly by the PO? I'm concerned about the shaft alignment, and why the rear seal went up. Thanks. Dave (slowly leaking in Lancaster) in Baltimore
  18. im3crazy
    That'll work- what brand of beer works for you? I'd be pleased to drop off a six pack for the swap. Thanks, Dave
  19. im3crazy
    Need ONE 33 33 3 428 125 rear sub-frame mount to body tie bar and bolt. ( 70 '02). In Baltimore, MD 21208 (PayPal) Thanks.
  20. im3crazy
    I trial-fitted one on my R100RS and didn't like it either, so didnt make it permanent. Anybody here experience problems with oxide additives in the gas melting old OEM rubber, (including carb seals/o-rings) and leaching thru the pot metal??
  21. im3crazy
    You said you have a 1970 02, has the fuse box/wire harness been changed toa 12 fuse or is this still the 6 fuse?? That push on/push off switch is for a later model. Originally in the pre 71, the lead went to terminal 31 on the pull-on dash switch. On the 75 wiring diagram the brown leads go to (1) the cigar lighter ground, and (2) the flashr module. In your case I think the wire might have gone to the cigar lighter based on the appearance - looks overheated at the connector. You're getting closer.
  22. im3crazy
    Here's a link to one of the best descriptions I've every seen of "re-keying" by code number. This de-mystifies the process and makes it easy for users to make their own using the triangular file method. My recommendation is - NEVER use or share the original with the keycode stamped on it. There are experts who are quite adept at "palming" or "waxing" keys and cutting trial keys from number. Now all you need are the blanks and some patience - maybe a little skill as well, and practice. I should point out that this works directly for actual key "cut" codes, but if it's a reference code you need to consult a manual for the cross reference to a cut code e.g. SX23 might = 3 1 4 5 7 6 2 actual cut depths. http://www.stephenbottcher.net/BMW/keys.htm and http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/keys/index.htm
  23. im3crazy
    I hate to admit this but, older keyways and the wafers (pins) used in these gas caps are usually so grimy and sticky that they can be easily picked by untrained. If you are sure the way the cylinder turns to open (clockwise?), you may be able to use two straightened paper clips- one inserted into the keyway to "rake" the pins (rapidly) while using the other with a small right angle bend to hold pressure to rotate the correct way to retract the "bolts". Give it a try, it can't hurt! Best of luck - and I'll check my key code later today as well.
  24. im3crazy
    IF- you are not a purist.... There have been several attempts to find a suitable cross-over part. I went through a parts site that listed at least 250 different valves of which at least 20 were very similar. I am sure there is a generic replacement that can be fitted with minor adaptations. I agree on the rebuild first approach if the body isn't cracked. Anybody out there have a cross-over part recommendation on this??
  25. im3crazy
    Saw your post on the Power Wagon and wondered if you know if any for sale at a reasonable price?? I've been looking for about a year now, but they are either too rusty or crazy priced. I'm in Baltimore MD. Thanks!
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