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im3crazy

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  1. im3crazy
    you might want to get a set of the plastic retainer inserts before you replace the skin. in still trying to find locally these inserts. if anybody has a suggestion on what parts stores carry these it would be helpful to a number of us doing what your doing. of course these are available ffom max or blunt but i was hoping to just get em at advance Auto ..no such luck.
  2. im3crazy
    great thread! these are truely time machines - hell w the delorian! i temporarily installed a 1968 blaupunkt tube radio in my 70, fired it up, tuned it to an AM radio station and listened to some wagner while tooling over some winding maryland roads in the wee hours. the memory jog sas so powerful it was scary. really took me back to college days in my 1600. very addicting.
  3. im3crazy
    Scott: You mentioned a dash upgrade. If this included a changeover from the dash mounted pull fan switch to the new dash-slider fan switch, you may have a problem with the heater fan. In mine (with this dash upgrade) my fan runs backward because the switched voltage in later is negative and earlier was positive. Just thought you might want to check yours. Dave in Baltim02e MD USA
  4. im3crazy
    thanks KC I appreciate that!I'll drop u a line next week to see when you'll be in. The Plastidip is a great idea for covering these.
  5. im3crazy
    Just noticed my top DS grill slat was missing. I did a number of searches here and Google but didn't find any suggestions for anything other than OEM replacement parts. Anybody use other materials for a grill slat replacement e.g. aluminum extrusions etc?? I have a '70 with blacked-out grill. All ideas welcomed.
  6. im3crazy
    I second the Greyhound bus route. I've been using them for years and very reliable- just plastic wrap the items and drop em off. They used to take whatever would fit in the bay, but I'm not sure these days!
  7. im3crazy
    i,ve had similar problem erratically but def based on outside temps. The above really nail the basic possibilities. however they don't ask the temperature of the gas in the tank. recently i noticed on longer drives my gas temp was really high , over 130 degrees. this is due in large part to the absence of a heat shield between tank and muffler. u may be experiencing a similar problem with gas tank absorbing high ambient and maybe reflected asphalt ground temps. u might measure temp at filter and at pump as well as gas tank. im installing a shield this week. good luck.
  8. im3crazy
    Bill: I discovered this partly as my ongoing gas smell search. I was working on a slight misalignment on the filler pipe to rubber cowl and preparing to move the gas tank slightly within what the existing holes would allow. I drove the car to work and returned and started to do the adjustment. When I felt the area around the tank near the exhaust it was almost too hot to touch. This read over 150F with my infrared therm. The gas at the engine fuel filter was 120F, and this was really alarming to me. I'm sure you're correct that my (69 production) '70 titled 02 did not have these, but I'm convinced it needs it. May of 08 I had a Car-B-Que with my fully restored '75 450sl... total loss. The cause was deteriorated NEW EFI rail rubber due to ethanol in the gas. I also experienced this gas line deterioration with my R100 BMW cycle. So I've become very concerned re gas issues! Also, re combustion. I've not done the real number research, but I think hot gas may not be the most efficient MPG approach and may significantly affect timing/ignition parameters. I hope others will weigh in on this.
  9. im3crazy
    thanks diesel for your detailed response. This is exactly what I needed to make one up if I can't find one. I'm not sure this model had one originally, but it sure needs one now! I dont like the idea of really hot gas for safety and combustion reasons. Dave
  10. im3crazy
    does anybody have a pic and rough dximensions for a gas tank heat shield they are willing to share? i found yet another gas smell factor - really HOT gasoline cannot be good! i also posted a WTB in classified for part. Thanks!
  11. im3crazy
    WTB a heat shield that mounts between muffler and gas tank on a 70 02. in baltimore MD 21208
  12. im3crazy
    Just when I thought I solved the gas smell... I noticed that spriited driving with lots of turns causes gas to slosh in the tank and up the filler tube. Once it leaves the tube, it dribbles down into the base of the interior rubber housing. There is a slight but effective leak down the tube no matter how well tightened the hose clamp. Anybody solve this sloshing/dripping problem. I need to tell you that I have a 70 02 with a 74 gas tank that has a long-necked filler. I'm using the original 70 rubber filler intended for the early gas tank with the shorter tube. I thought I could just replace the rubber part with the shorter matching type, but NO. My car's gas filler back-end accomodates the "push on" rubber filler hose, and not the later one that uses a ring and 3 screws. I'm open for suggestions. I've found nothing in the posts here or elsewhere on this one. Thanks in advance!
  13. im3crazy
    This simple troubleshooting doc might help. http://www.faria-instruments.com/site_manuals/IS0100d_9.pdf I didn't find much on this site, but I'm also dealing with a tach problem. Mine goes up to 3000 rpm but no further. Not sure if this is strickly a mechanical fault or not. I'd rather hear others who have had same problem before I yank it out of the dash.
  14. im3crazy
    i'll take the gas tank shield. in baltimore.. do u take paypal?? thanks
  15. im3crazy
    Great innovative approach. I initially thought the fuel smell was fairly simple to solve, but now I know better. If I recall there is a very comprehensive FAQ on the gas smell. I f you are looking for other factors, one I found was that the PO had installed a new dash, and the heater fan controls were incompatible running the fan in reverse and dragging in odor from the trunk. I also had at least 4 other alternating problems adding to the confusion of identifying the smell - as did you. I really like your approach because I don't want to vent my fuel filler vapor liine (European approach) to outside air under trunk for fear of a possible IGNITION source back to filler spout and tank.
  16. im3crazy
    Looking for a decent working 4 channel amp. Also interested in an EQ with speaker level inputs. In Baltimore.
  17. im3crazy
    Does anybody know a good supply source for the Lisle tool?? I've called Lisle and their vendors with no luck. I've Googled this to death!! I don't want to buy off web if I can walk-in and buy over the counter. Anybody in Maryland, DC, PA stock these?? Thanks.
  18. im3crazy
    Thought this would only take a few minutes to find the correct number for replacement dash and lighted accessory switch bulbs - wrong. I was surprised not to find this spec here or much documentation in Walloth or other parts sites, but in case anybody's looking. Hazard and accessory push-button replacement pilot bulbs are Osram 2721 1.2 watt 12V wedge base and also a higher wattage version that might be hazardous to your dash health http://www.germansupply.com/home/customer/product.php?productid=16864
  19. im3crazy
    If it's of any help - and it was to me when I found out- the cluster of brown (ground) lines from the wiring harness/ fuse box attaches under the small ground strap where it mounts to the relay bracket. It's sandwiched between two flat washers. on my 70 with a 74 wiring harness It made a measureble difference (1.2 volts) when I moved it to this bracket from a poor grounding point the PO made. As mentioned in another post above, I ground down to bare metal all contact point on this relay bracket, removed a very loose #8 screw and bolted thru with stainless steel hardware with a star washer in rear. I covered all contact points with dielectric silicone paste.
  20. im3crazy
    Once again I'm pleased with the products (original Hella chrome-back 160's, E-code H4's and well constructed wiring harnesses) service, and very competative pricing. THEY GIVE A 10% DISCOUNT IF YOU MENTION U R A FAQ MEMBER. Recently purchased a wire harness that required some adaptation and Ray at Susquehanna confered with me, then emaild me a solution that didnt require removal from my completed loom. I highly recommend them. Thanks Dave & Ray. www.rallylights.com
  21. im3crazy
    I spent about an hour on the phone with 3 Costcos here in Maryland. Am I missing something? According to them, they do not sell any other than (1) red 36/72, (1) blue, ?# and (1) yellow ?#- non of which are close to what I've read here on the forum. Can I buy these at another Costco somewhere? Just not here? They also do not offer ANY car battery online. Reality check please. Where's the best place to actually find and buy an Optima? Thanks.
  22. im3crazy
    I was holding off on this until I got these fully installed, but this post has just totally freaked me out. Even though I rebuilt my rear lamp housings and optimized everything the 8-10 times I've had my '70 02 out on the road in each case I almost got rear-ended as well by distracted/ confused or side-swiped by curious drivers. I've installed two Command clear Stop/Tail/Turn lamps just under the headliner on left and right sides. These are fu**ing lasers. I'll have pictures and hopefully a step-by-step and a parts list Monday - or earlier. I've also noticed drivers interested in the car start to drift closer and closer and often have to veer away. http://www.commandelectronics.com/led-tail-lights.html Sorry about your loss, but good luck on the new find! HOTLINE CLEAR.pdf
  23. im3crazy
    I like where you're going with it. Maybe the diode prevents power backfeed from either the ebrake or the plunger switch on the brake fluid resevoir and allows either to light the brake warning lamp. I'll check the schems again, but I'm not seeing the detail on this. Was there a warning lamp if one of the required safety devices were not engaged in automatics and later manuals?? e.g clutch in??
  24. im3crazy
    I'm new here, but I'm guessing that's a roundie?
  25. im3crazy
    If it's connected to/from the brake light, possibly part of the later ignition interlock mess. I looked for a schem of the interlock, but didn't have it. I like Bill's idea of a low fuel lamp if it's related to an indicator lamp on the display in question which the others don't have. I would not suggest connecting 12vdc to it, however connecting 110vac may develop better smoke I love a mystery too. I guess we have to keep seeking the answer.
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