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im3crazy

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Everything posted by im3crazy

  1. im3crazy
    That could definitely be your problem. Although this is for a 76, I believe this should work for you as well. I mentioned this in another post today about making sure the cable connectors are seated well by removing and re-seating them after inspection. It is also not unusual for the stalk switches to intermittently fail, as well as the relays get damaged due to water leaks over the years. I provided a link to a LARGE wiring diagram in a later post here today so I won't repeat it. Also, it's on the forum under a number of much earlier posts from others. I cannot attribute it, but I would if I could.
  2. im3crazy
    Anybody here adding Toluene to boost octane?? I use it in my R100rs with good results.
  3. im3crazy
    Mine does the exact same thing. I've heard there is a setting on the back of the unit, but I've not gotten to it yet. Mine cut off so sharply I suspected a physical fault/ jamming. Maybe somebody can nail this for us??
  4. im3crazy
    I'd say that (1) gas tanks and (2) door brakes are going quickly at reasonable access and price. I found ONE tank left in US and a backup of only 22 in Germany through BMW MT last year. Eventually after much searching I found door brakes, but they were expensive. When I found a NOS source at a ridiculously low price, I bought them all even though I didn't need any! Call it a leap of faith. These are my best guess - also drag links and other NOS suspension parts seem to be getting scarce quickly.
  5. im3crazy
    Here's a start: 1974 2002 Tii VA 2782561 Fjord Ted Ibach From 2002 Registry. http://www.2002registry.com/original_site/original_registry.htm Dave
  6. im3crazy
    I chcked the wiring diagrams or your year but could not find a solid YELLOW (GE in German) wire in this harness. However, I did find that there is a GRAY lead (GR) that comes from the Ignition switch and is "on" in the first key position. Check out the diagram at schematic item 49 Ignition switch and follow this to the 8 conductor connector. The GRAY lead will provide +12 volts. However, I feel that you would be better served by wiring a new #14 wire directly to the battery thru an in-line fuse (small 2 or 3 amp) to the radio.
  7. im3crazy
    I've attached a wiring diagram for a 76, but I dont think this circuit changed since 74. The ground for the wiper motor is BROWN - all grounds on 02's are BROWN (BRN) Brun. The ground point is under the dash near steering column. There are multiple grounds at this point including the cigar lighter. I don't think this is a grounding point problem. Many faults are due to poor connector seating from devices into the wiring harness. Re-seat the stalk and motor connections first, then you will have to do a meter-based troubleshooting. Be cautious of the motor "home"position contact and assure this is not faulting. The motor shoudl run with the brown wire connected to battery (-) and the black/yellow (SW/GE in German) to +12 volts. 1970 dkb upgraded 02wiringdiagram-76.pdf
  8. im3crazy
    Jim: This was one of my 5 major fuel smell problems. I also replaced the seal which was badly cracked as well and even used a soft silicone grease to assure sealing, and still had an air leak. I could press down on the tank and hear hissing from the seal. With just a small amount of fuel in the tank I removed the sender and it was really hard to get off. Upon close inspection I noticed that a PO had dented the tank exactly at the bottoming point for the sender. This was pushing up the sender enough to cause a poor seal and nearly impossible removal. (mechanics turn away now) A few minutes with a little league baseball bat and a rubber mallet corrected the tank back down to near it's original position - no more fuel smell or air leak.
  9. im3crazy
    Good observation. I was initially going to use a rubber ball. The vent tube is connected in the upper rubber boot area and the tank vent path is provided straight thru the siphon bulb. The vent goes out the floor of the car (euro venting).
  10. im3crazy
    Crest might be able to get the color and spec you require at a competitive market price. Not sure about the import/export taxes on sheet goods. http://www.crestleather.com/index.php?task=leather_ranges&application=automotive#leather_ranges_results Best of luck.
  11. im3crazy
    There is a gas smell FAQ going I think Bill Williams started it some time ago that's helpful. Also, here are two other: (1) I had a seam leak (hardly noticeable) at gas tank where well documented gasket had failed, and (2) I noticed that with a FULL tank gas sloshes up into the filler neck and runs down into the space between rubber boot and metal filler neck. It's not much, but it is more than enough to cause an odor. I now plug the top of the filler pipe with a rubber bulb from a gas siphon hose. It prevents this splash from leaking down and has totally eliminated my last remaining odor. Other option: my sense of smell for gas has been destroyed over the last year!!
  12. im3crazy
    Thanks for that pic Chris. I'm upgrading to REPAs and had never seen that as a possible mounting point on my 1969build/70title. Unfortunately, my B pillars have holes but no threads so I'm gonna weld...
  13. im3crazy
    I got tired of running down my battery when leaving headlights on so I installed a relay on the headlight circuit linked to the ignition "on" circuit so when I turnoff the ignition the headlights go off as well. This also controls my driving lights.
  14. im3crazy
    Sounds like there may be air bypassing the heater core and blowing out around it with the heated air. No other reason you would have such a mixture in this simple system. OR Also, maybe part of the core is blocked and only the front half is heating?? I'm not sure about the coil layout on these, but it's a possibility.
  15. im3crazy
    Last time I did a home brew on a heater core was a Volvo P1800 but it's the same approach. I used a recirculation pump and a big wash tube resevoir of vinegar. I pumped the vinegar through the core for 24 hours and it came out fine. I was afraid to use the commercial chemicals for fear of dissolviing the core/tubes. Also great fro gas tank flushing before or without sealer.
  16. im3crazy
    There are a number of problems with this design as it ages! I've attached a pic that shows some of what I found needed correction. I'll send a pic of the corrected version. The red arrows shows a rivet that holds the spade lug connector and the bulb contact point. These seem to be 2 different metals- one for springing, the other is softer for contact. I've noticed high resistance in this riveted joint, loss of springiness, and poor spade lug connections on the wire and on the lamp housing. The fix I followed was to drill out the mounting rivet, install new contacts points made out of available copper spade lug "double male" materials, re-rivet, solder the rivet to the assembly, and clean up the bulb side nib contacts (see yellow arrow) where the bulb seats in the lamp housing. Contact there was a real problem until the surfaces were cleaned with de-oxit, and the bulbs were forced against the housing with the increased pressure. Pay attention to warnings on the board about increasing your wattage. Many a really nice lens assembly has been quickly burned-in using higher than specified. I cleaned up the tragic soldering from the PO and the poor ground connection to the lamp housing and the body ground near the gas tank. The results from this work and a housing reflector re-silvering using aluminum foil "repair tape" was very surprising. Good luck.
  17. im3crazy
    i thought that BMW mobile tradition could provide the history of your car e.g. build date, options, and i thought the importing destination dealer. does anyone know who took over Hoffmans remaining business/corporate records? it mighht be worth chasing them down if thet still exisit.
  18. im3crazy
    So the 85amp alternator Mcaden links to will fit the 02 brackets, but you use the old (or new) 02 bushings? Any other surprises to be expected with this rebuilt unit from Eagle?? I'm assuming Zenon's wiring directions still work for this terminal designation to terminal and the brown wire stays common in the old (now unused) plug to the old voltage regulator?? Dave in elegant downtown Pikesville (Baltimore)
  19. im3crazy
    a signal flasher - it's marked 1-4x21 watts meaning it will operate (blink)correctly when a load of between 1 to 4 bulbs not to exceed 21 watts each is fed by it. If it's clicking all the time, thats a problem!
  20. im3crazy
    Check the front pages and see if there is an explicit copyright statement e.g. copyright BMW 1970 , all rights reserved, permission required for reprinting etc. Materials not so marked prior to a particular date (not sure bbut it's after 1970) are not covered under US copyright unless marked as such. There are a number of dealers selling reprints which are not give copyright protection due to this date, and the lack of explciit reserve. Any lawyers (judges) here wish to weigh-in??
  21. im3crazy
    Of course somebody sells a tool.. probably made in Bavaria! http://www.specialistauctions.com/auctiondetails.php?id=1090207 Also- DIY instructions I've used before for speedos: To remove the hands without a hand remover, first place a piece of soft plastic on the dial to protect it (I use a piece cut from a plastic milk carton), then put a very small block of wood next to the hands. Use a long screwdriver, placed on the wood block, to lever up the hand. Alternate the pressure on one side of the hand, then the other, a little bit at a time, so that you don't bend the handshaft.
  22. im3crazy
    That's a nice radio and high quality construction and the price sounds reasonable. There are a few options to install a CD/iPOD input using the existing connections (or FM in-line radio as mentioned above). I never had good luck with those in my area (Baltimore) too many competing stations. You might see if Becker can install an input on the face of the radio that they wire directly to the audio input on the board. I had a Mexico refurbed by them last year and they did a great job. http://www.beckerautosound.com
  23. im3crazy
    That's a nice radio and high quality construction and the price sounds reasonable. There are a few options to install a CD/iPOD input using the existing connections (or FM in-line radio as mentioned above). I never had good luck with those in my area (Baltimore) too many competing stations. You might see if Becker can install an input on the face of the radio that they wire directly to the audio input on the board. I had a Mexico refurbed by them last year and they did a great job. http://www.beckerautosound.com
  24. im3crazy
    Ditto on the above post from Baltimore: Hella 160 fog lamps (chrome backed) and E-code/H4 headlamps from www.rallylights.com. Dave
  25. im3crazy
    That's great news Chris, sounds like you are almost there. Here's a lead on where you might rent some nice booth time. 21st street just 1/2 block west of Charles. Building is on the right; an old body shop with a nice booth. When I stopped in to explore the guys in there were open to it. Haven't been back since last year but I think its the same dudes: talented metal artist and a chimmney sweep. Please let me know if they are still willing to do this. (PS: I bought your box o' side markers and seat belts) Dave
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