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im3crazy

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  1. im3crazy
    WTB: NOS rear PS and DS vent seals 51367441112 and 51367441113 unused in like new condition.The long seal (#3) in image below. Shipping to Baltimore, MD. Thanks!
  2. im3crazy
    I'm interested in the 2 rear vent window surround seals ( R & L) and 2 of the straight seals or the vents. (1) 5136744112/ (1) 5136744113 and (2) 5136744110. I can do Paypal. Thanks. Dave in Baltimore
  3. im3crazy
    I found a shop off the beaten path above Westminster Md. Terry has 40 yrs experience, and is priced very competitively. He's working on my "49" Dodge Power Wagon now (requiring major panel beating and sheet metal re-fab), but I will get my 69 02 to him soon for a full repaint. I've seen his work with really rusted out VWs, and he did a fine job. Terry's Body Shop Terry Strevig 4001 Littlestown Rd. Westminster, MD 410-346-7800
  4. im3crazy
    Not DE, NC. I was excited for a moment
  5. im3crazy
    Email sent.
  6. im3crazy
    Its really getting worse. Now there's spear phishing. this is when the bad guys use very specific info (like your first name) just to get you to click through or open the attachment. You definately don't want to open the attachment or click on the links. It may seem that nothing happens, but thats part of the trick. A number of our servers and workstations have been infected, and it appears you can't get it all gone. Check out Advanced Persistent Threats (APT) on wikipedia. Also, we heard about a probable major phishing attack leading up to 9/11 anniversary. There going to use nearly irresistable subject lines e.g. Osama photos finally released, new images of 911 attack, and these will appear to come from friends and families. If you've noticed something linked to an element on this site, it should be reported to the sys-admin/ webmaster- Steve??
  7. im3crazy
    If you dont have the wiring diagram for the radio I believe they are still available at the Becker USA site. I had them rebuild and add ipod input to my Becker Mexico Stereo. I also have a Europa and a 1966 Franfurt. These are fairly bullet-proof unless connected incorrectly. Where on this radio did you connect the 12vdc + power and ground? Since you didnt state it, I am assuming you had some type of antenna lead (antenna or short wire) connected to the unit. Hope youcan resolve the issue soon and start enjoying the rich sound from yesterday!
  8. im3crazy
    I've had similar probs previously here in Baltimore. Last summer I installed (retrofitted) a stock heat shield for the gas tank. My exhaust pipe being so close to the gas tank was heating the gas to over 135 degrees- couldn't be good. I was getting stalling and hard/no starting as well. This worked very well and reduced problem to nearly nothing. I also relocated my glass gas filter off of the engine block oops.
  9. im3crazy
    Email sent for the redline breather adapter and summer box.
  10. im3crazy
    Are you using the 99410 457 adapter? I'm also thinking about going back to stock for the cold air and better filter area.
  11. im3crazy
    I've found similar probs with haynes based on years, search this site for the factory manual diagrams and keys which are much more accurate..still some variations, also there are a few providers of speciality large sized color coded wire diagrams on plastic.
  12. im3crazy
    I've found similar probs with haynes based on years, search this site for the factory manual diagrams and keys which are much more accurate..still some variations, also there are a few providers of speciality large sized color coded wire diagrams on plastic.
  13. im3crazy
    This thread covers your adapter questions well, and I've included the schematic for the stereo adapter as well. My conversion for my Becker Mexico cost $7.50. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,309267/highlight,ipod+connection+blaupunkt/ I do have a Frankfurt (mono) tube radio, almost new in a box, that I removed from an '02 in 1969 and replaced with Sony cassette (!) that adapter cost $5.50 with radio shack parts.
  14. im3crazy
    Thanks, at harbor freight and wanted to get a deep socket just in case.
  15. im3crazy
    I thought I knew this but I don't. Search did not help and returned nothing even close . What is the metric socket size for lug nuts on my 1970 02? I have steel wheels. 17mm I thought, but not. Thanks!
  16. im3crazy
    I agree with the above suggestion that you re-install the old switch for a test. While you are doing the swap, carefully check the connections at the amphenol (multicontact) connector. You will have to operate the turn signals while doing a wire and connector "shake-down" and play with the wires until - if lucky- you experince a failure. All of your observations and other's comments highly suggest a poor connection at this point or the stalk switch. Your comment that the 4 ways work when the directional selection doesn't suggest the stalk and column portion of the circuit. Please do let us know your resolution. It would be great to eventually get a problem and solution matrix going here with posted outcomes to help others focus on most highly probable fault. I went through 3 switches until I detected a connector corrosion![/u]
  17. im3crazy
    I agree with the above suggestion that you re-install the old switch for a test. While you are doing the swap, carefully check the connections at the amphenol (multicontact) connector. You will have to operate the turn signals while doing a wire and connector "shake-down" and play with the wires until - if lucky- you experince a failure. All of your observations and other's comments highly suggest a poor connection at this point or the stalk switch. Your comment that the 4 ways work when the directional selection doesn't suggest the stalk and column portion of the circuit. Please do let us know your resolution. It would be great to eventually get a problem and solution matrix going here with posted outcomes to help others focus on most highly probable fault. I went through 3 switches until I detected a connector corrosion![/u]
  18. im3crazy
    It's available through www.pac-audio.com Its 12volts. Lots of goodies at this site if you're going high tech.
  19. im3crazy
    Thanks. I thought about this challenge for a number of months and wanted to get it right without damage to the original parts. The 1/2 long screw in inserted in the hole where I removed the other screw turnbuckle screw eye.[PIC attached] I screwed it in after I clipped the spring over the turnbuckle end. This prevents the spring from sagging when not under stress and dropping out of alignment. Alignment and no slack is important in this type of installation because the moment of force exerted by the solenoid can be damaging- or not effective. The point of spring attachment in on the tang on which the existing "bear claw" return/tension spring is clipped. I clipped the new spring just under the existing one. [PIC attached] My next project is an automatic hood release/riser using a lift-chair actuator. Of course I will keep the existing trunk latch/lock system in place.
  20. im3crazy
    I also had his problem. I drilled out the spring contact mounts and replaced the original contact backing strip with new live springy metal strip ACE hardware misc part. If you look closely you will notice the copper contact is backed by a steel spring material. This worked well, I replace the rivits with #4 screws I think. I can send pics if you wish to try this approach. The real fix for sloppy pin receiver in housing is to brighten up the area with 0000 steel wool, apply a acid etch paste, heat carefully and apply a build up of solder. This was no fun but solved a worn out pin slot perfectly, I did have to insert and reinsert buld a few dozen times for right fit.
  21. im3crazy
    I don't think your wiring assignments are correct for that switch. If you have a continuity meter I suggest checking out before connecting. I think, by DIN convention, brn are coomon ground to provide light a path to ground, blk is hot feed to switch, wht is switched lead out to load. Meter out to be sure. I'm using one of these for fog lamps to a relay and I also suggest using a relay and not running full fan motor load thru switch.
  22. im3crazy
    I just did this on my 69 build date 02: i did not weld. I followed the no weld method shown on the FAQ. Worked very well and I also was very pleased with the correct mounting hardwar eprovided by Bludevils on this site. He also redid my repa iniertia belts beautifully. I decided not to cut or weld the B pillar and am pleased all around.
  23. im3crazy
    I hope this might provide some ideas for others who are planning a similar installation. My searches showed a few articles but nothing in detail. A set of pics are attached to illustrate the approach. I'm installing an alarm system on my '70 02 and decided to include door and trunk releases. I tried a small solenoid but it didn't have enough pull for reliable operation. A web search found a 40-50 lb pull unit which I bought, but then I was concerned that this much pull could damage the trunk latch. It's really powerful and potentially damaging if not installed with some controls and limits. To easily adjust the pull stroke, and to protect the trunk release latch from being over powered and damaged from the strong pull I attached a 40 lb pull spring to one end of a 5/16 turnbuckle from ACE Hardware. A short machine screw was inserted in the spring end to keep the spring from separating from the turnbuckle. Another challenge was to find a way to install the solenoid without obvious holes. This was accomplished by hiding the four bolt holes under the trunk trim strip. The solenoid is triggered by the alarm control remoted through a 30amp relay fed from the trunk mounted stereo amp on a #10 gauge wire. I've also provided a pic of the alarm switch mount on the trunk latch assembly.
  24. im3crazy
    this might help/
  25. im3crazy
    +1 on the parts list for general rebuild and most commonly needed to replace. Cdiesel and blunt may have these. Also the getrag rebuild manual is on here.
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