Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About dscoff

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. For sale again. I had it up for a couple of months in the summer but didn't attempt to sell over the winter. http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/pml/cto/3648708720.html
  2. http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/pml/cto/3203427223.html Hey guys, Sadly it's time to part with my car. I want someone to love it and drive it like I used to! I forgot a few minor details in the CL ad like IE Sway bars, adjustable front shock mounts (camber and castor), two sets of airhorns for the DCOE's, electric fuel pump, E30 battery cable... Pretty sure everyone here will appreciate the rebuilt Getrag 235 too! Thanks! Jonathan
  3. I've had mine installed for about 3 weeks ago and all I can say is awesome! I have a '69 with carpet, but I trimmed the carpet around the pedal mounts slightly. I'd always had an issue with my pedal popping off to the right (moderately frustrating while driving) but Lee's attachment method has totally eliminated this. The bearing is super smooth and I added a small zip tie to the rod to keep it in the sweet spot and out of the "pot holes". Awesome. Love it. Period.
  4. What more would you like to know? http://massivebrakes.com/
  5. My tow hook is a MASSIVE unit from Lee. It fits through the original bumper slot and bolts to the bumper-bracket holes in the frame. I patched the left side bumper slot hole with sheet metal.
  6. I fab'd my own: it's 18g sheet metal spot welded about every 1" where it meets the nose, and has 1.5" square tube struts that run back to the frame (you could plough snow with it!). On the front is a layer of 2.5oz glass mat, 2 layers of contour-divinycil, smoothing and shaping with resin and cabosil, a layer of glass cloth and finally some filler. It was about 50 hours of labour because it was from scratch and there was a bit of trial and error, but in the end totally worth the effort! I also made a mold of it in case the unthinkable happens I'll post a pic when I'm not on my iPhone. Have fun!
  7. I have an automotive text book called "Automotive Technology: A Systems Approach" by Jack Erjavec, which has a good explanation of manual transmissions and good diagrams including the power flow. This refers to the actual "path" that the power from the input shaft takes to the output shaft in a given gear. Most of the components in a trans are moving at all times, but that doesn't mean they're all transferring power. If you can understand how the power flows and thus how the gears work, it makes understanding how syncros work much easier. That said, there are a few different styles of syncros that work slightly differently but the concept is the same. Unless you're a very visual learner, the only way to pick up the details is to look at one partly disassembled, although with the price of tired 4-speeds at $50-70, it would be a cheap investment to learn on.
  8. No problem. I'd say wait until you've pulled the box apart to before ordering anything. There's always the chance of surprises in there or that you'll break something during disassembly. Here's what I ended up ordering: 23111606108-Sealing cover 07119965060-Shaft seal 23121222356-Gasket (X2) 07119937220-Cover lid (X4) 23121205522-Ball bearing 23121204209-Shaft seal 23121222355-Gasket 23231200777-Synchro ring (X3) 23121490177-O-ring 25111208580-Supporting bracket 23121200730-Gasket 07119963130-Washer You may not need 4 "cover lids" (they're the mini freeze plugs used to remove and replace detent and interlock balls); I disassembled the box without the Haynes manual, but when reassembling (with the manual) realized I probably only needed to pull one or two of them. I didn't need any super special tools (like the bearing puller for the 4-speed), but you'll need a thin walled 30mm socket to remove the output flange nut and a pin tool (easily made) to hold the flange. The bushing that the reverse gear's bearings ride on was fairly tight, but nothing a little heat didn't help. My only other tips would be to firstly make measurements and diagrams like crazy: I measured every shim, c-clip and other part and carefully drew it's placement and orientation. It may seem like overkill, but 1) you can then easily clean all the parts without worrying about mixing them up and 2) when you're in the depths of reassembly is a crappy time to find a spacer with a chamfer who's direction you can't remember. Secondly when putting the forks, rails, selector rod and detent/interlock balls back in place, leave the roll pins just barley in place until you've tested that the selector dog engages each rail and nothing interferes. It's a bit of a chinese puzzle and if you drive the roll pins home only to find you need to back up a step, everything has to come apart to get them out. Have fun! EDIT: I realized the first photo I posted shows the rails/forks/selectors in place with the pins just barely in.
  9. The cost (in terms of car expenditures) wasn't too bad: about $360 in parts and a couple of days labour. I didn't replace 4th and 5th synchros mainly because they're weren't too worn, but also because they were $130 each.
  10. Haven't had much time for '02 project this winter, but if I had to choose one, it was rebuilding my 235 close ratio dog leg gear box. It weeped (read: leaked) from the speedo gear and the rear seal, I clenched my teeth with every ginger shift into 2nd and it just felt generally sloppy and tired. Having researched the rebuild online, it sounded like parts availability was going to be an issue. Not so! Maximillion Importing was able to provide all the parts I needed including 1st, 2nd and 3rd synchros, all gaskets and seals and a few odds and ends like the mini-freeze-plugs used to remove the interlock and detent balls. I finished reassembly on Thursday and with two days of driving done, the difference is remarkable. The box is crisp and very notchy with super positive engagement.
  11. I concur. Everything I've ordered has been over engineered, fit perfectly and shipped immediately in more packing than a faberge egg. Jono
  12. Excellent point: the bump steer spacer doesn't add any ride height. I added them because under hard cornering with ny kind of low frequency bumps, the steering felt like it suddenly "kicked" and then recorrected. I wasn't 100% sure it was bump steer, but they seem to have solved the issue.
  13. The front flares are Korman while the rears are IE. Suspension all around is IE Stage 2 springs with Billy Sport shocks. The fronts also have a bump-steer spacer between the steering arm and the strut. The front is a little higher than I'd like, but I'm not really sweating it at this point... time to drive!

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.