im3crazy

See attached drawing. Could it be the RT (red) and (BR) Brown connections to the clock?? (red cloud) Notice that in your example that doesn't have the terminal that the circuit board is drilled for something. Maybe your earlier version didn't have a clock in the display?? The electrical device is a diode to prevent polarity reversal or backward voltage flow. It does not appear to show on the attachment, but maybe this is it at the red arrow??

Sounds like the column switch needs a refurb. It can be done if it hasn't totally melted down. The switch casing has possibly separated partially (rivets loose), and contact points in the switch are tripping the dipper relay. If you remove the switch and take it carefully apart ( see other posts on this forum) you can probably get these contacts back in order. Disasseble carefully and watch for the spring-loaded ball contacts when it comes apart. You may also find various parts in the plastic housing beneath the steering wheel. Worse case if you can't rebuild the switch, you've got it all open and can buy a new ($$) or used ($) replacement ready to go in.

If you've upgraded your turn signals and have been searching for a compatible 3 terminal flasher to replace the original flasher relay, check out the NAPA EL13 H. It has an X, L and P terminal which accommodates the green dash "pilot" light. I tried 5 different manufacturer's relays and they didn't quite work right. I was also surprised that NAPA search listed 1970 BMW "2000" and showed a replacement at all! http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(ofwjckfmsfpgnc45igdzbbum))/Detail.aspx?R=NF_EL13H_0226736252 .

Just suffered thru this one, so here's my suggestions. Evaluate your tank before you determine your approach. I had a seam leak but a "perfect interior" which was totally ruined by the boil out. A sealer woud have been my best apprach, but I wanted the leak brazed and ground down. I was wrong. Considerations: 1. BMW national parts (Dealer) availability is currently (2) in stock in USA at ~$750 2. Slightly better pricing (I believe) thru a couple folks here that do BMW Mobile tradition - search on "Blunt" 3. Make real sure you are getting the correct tank for your car and that the current filler tube is correct for what you are buying. 4. Check the tank seam very carefully- if you DON'T have leaking or rusting nearest the passenger wheel well where the OEM seal was too short, I would be shocked. 5. Radiator shops can fix, but beware that if the inside of the tank looks good now except for the pin holes, it WON'T when they finish "boiling it out" 6. POR gas tank treatment usually works if done meticulously. 7. RENU is similar product done by shop with similar expected results hopelfully guaranteed for some time period 8. Used tanks may not be any better than what you have unless seller has really scoped it out - and shipping is pricey for long hauls - maybe Greyhound bus freight is cheapest. WHAT I DID: 9. Vinegar worked very well to clean out the rust and scale left over from boil-out, filling with oil and using wd40 didn't stop near-immediatge rerusting. VALUE ADDED- I lost 5 lbs aggitating the tank over a 3 day period and filtering/screening out 5 gal of vinegar and reusing until all particles and rust were gone 10. Used 1 gal of Concrete Etch (Home Depot paint dept) based on a nast acid- more aggitation until fully coated and turned all rust to dark gray. About 1 hour was all that was needed. BE CAREFUL, this stuff is caustic and will BURN. I wore poly gloves, long sleeves, and face protection. 10. I filled with 3 gal of gas and again and again and again aggitated and filtered gas until NO MORE FREAKING particles or rust (now black) coloring was apparant. ( about n30-40 fills, shake, filter, re-fill, shake etc ad nauseum) 11. Installed tank with stainless steel bolts, flat washers and nylon lock nuts after coaing with blue loctite, used a double strip of door seal from (yes Home Depot hardware area) Also coated this with the electrical silicone to assure good seal - determined tank bottom was bumped in and would not accomodate fuel sender 12. Used user end of small baseball bat and a 5 lb maul to beat the dent out carefully as one can do with a 5lb maul and a baseball bat and lots of pent up anger towards this D**MN tank. 13 Installed the sender - nice fit- used electrical silicone paste on the OLD "O" ring seal - (buy a new one from Blunt) 14. Added 5 gal of new gas to the tank 15. Changed to new gas filter at engine 16. Fed used gas to junkyard dog that can't get enough of this stuff........just kidding. 17. Drove the car to the gas station,filled up, checked filter NO RUST or particles - YEAH! 18. Did novena to Saint Anthony - patron of los causes - just in case! 19. Drive the d**mn car. Hope this is helpful, or if not helpful, at least amusing! ANYBODY_ Please chime in if I missed anything here! Dave in Baltim02e

I've had 3 p1800 versions and 1 1800ES. All B10 or B10b engines. Last one was a 68 1800s with 175,000 did not burn oil but had some manifold seal problems and I did find oil in the radiator overflow llast checkup. These rust badly in the rockers and are famous total rust-outs if they were the very early British-built versions that sat outside during a lengthy strike. I had NO major mechanical problems in all those miles with the 3 cars other than 3 alternators and 2 starters- all easy eplacement. I iinstalled AC on one in 6 hours - 6 very hot and difficult hours using parts from another VOLVO. Never used it because it robbed too much power. My 1 1800 could get out of it's way....downhill, but these were NOT sports cars! I remeber being so impressed at the hand-made quality fit and finish of these cars. I still have a spare SU carb set I routinely switched out for tune ups. I recall carrying a small hammer to tap the plunger towers to free stuck main needle valve plungers. The plunger dampeners were filled with a light weight oil (auto transmission oil IIRC). Electrical problems were typically same as other Lucas-based products. I still have a full set of Smith gauges and clock and lots of other trim stuff. I also have new in original box lights and parts somewhere! I solved nearly ALL electrical problems . Check very carefully for lot's of body filler hiding buckets of rust!

If you have a 4way flasher switch in the center console, you should also have a hot lead ending in a female spade lug connector attached. Feel back along the wiring that ends at the 4way switch, this is the factory termination for the radio. Havinf said that, you might be better off noise wise if you wire directly to battery for both hot and neg connections with an inline fuse near the positive battery takeoff point.

I have a similar question. Is there a date that we know when BMW started including the backing nuts high in the B pillar? I have new upholstery on this pillar and don't want to remove it to check.

Looking for a 4 channel audio amp ~50 watts/ch in good working condition. I have a confirmed paypal account. Dave .

DO you have the right or left seal? Thanks. im02crazy@yahoo.com

Looking for new/ like new door seals for my 70. BMW part #s 51-71-1-808-685 and ----686 Shipping to 21208 I have a confirmed paypal acct. Please email me. Thanks. Dave

I repaired mine using two #4 (small) self tapping screws after removing the rivets which I think I drilled out. I used two 1" by 1/4" wide piece of brass strips on top of each other which I drilled to accept a small (#4 or 6)round head machine screw, lock washer and backing nut. I trimmed down the brass stock a bit to accept the spade terminal on the wire. This works fine after an initial bending with a small needle nose pliars to match the bulb position.

Thanks Bill. It seems like a simple question, but I've learned that what often appears obvious on these cars isn't. I was guessing 1/8" or so but would not be surprised at a larger required/designed gap. I also noticed I get an air leak/whoosh from O ring seal of the sender when I press down slightly compressing the tank. Seems I have a small gap somehwere there. I replaced with the original O ring after liberal electrical silicone lubing, but I'm hoping deepening the tank a little will solve this leak. .

WTB new or slightly used BMW factory service manual CD. Shipping to 21208 I've got a confirmed PayPal account. Thanks.

Finally got the tank from hell back in the car and installed the sender and 2 gal of gas. Seems the tank not only rusted but it shrunk when the 3 stooges at the radiator shop worked on it! Looks like they dented it just right to mess this up. Does anybody know what the space between the base of the fuel sender and the tank should be about?? Right no I'm at "0" and I'm pretty sure that's not quite right! My fix is gonna be a short baseball bat, a big hammer, and about 100 medium raps until it meets whatever spec u tell me is about right. Thanks. .

Do these fit in the existing dash opening, or is there some persuasion? I have a few size hammers. http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3392&sid=18 .

Misleading at best. Certainly not an HID, unless you allow for other definitions of "HID" maybe How Incredibly Dumb" to try this kind of ad! I'm not recommending these folks, but it's a nice definition of the lamps; halogen, xenon additive, HID etc. I'm glad u didn't buy it. http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/lighting_tech/techpage.jsp?techid=131 There are real conversion kits, but I've not seen any that meet manufacturer's standards unless it's a legit brand name full OEM upgrade e.g. Bosch.

I'm looking for the trim/insulation strip that goes on the rear of the overrider between the over rider and the bumper. These are about 6-7" long and each overrider needs 2. I'm looking for 8 sets to do 4 over riders.

Greyhound?? I understand it's usually the lowest cost for larger parts/

A little more info is needed to trace these out. What area under the hood are these closest to? what year is the car, or the wiring harness? In my 70 I have a 76 wiring harness. Also, not all the emissions wiring is shown in the stock diagrams.

WTB 3 drain tubes next to the heater in new or good condition. I have confirmed PayPal account. im02crazy@yahoo.com dave in Baltim02e, Maryland 21208

Thanks guys for the good leads and the offer to loan one, Bill. I was real close to drilling out a hex key but got onto other priorities to get this on the road! I'll get to an ACE hardware later today and pick em up. Always helpful here. Thanks.