doug73cs

I assume you will have the requisite full set of metric sockets and wrenches plus srewdrivers and pliers. My pet peeve is electrical gremlins so bring an assortment of connecters, wire, volt meter and a VISA card with a large limit. Your trip is about as direct as possible but if you have the time, swing north from Denver/Omaha through South dakota, Minn, Wis, and cross into Canada at Sault St Marie. That will take you through the shield country on the north shore of the Great Lakes - east past Sudbury and through Algonquin to the Ottawa valley and south to Montreal. I'm sure the Chicago/Detroit/Windsor/Toronto/Montreal route has it's own industrial charm but do you really want to drive your cherished o2 amongst 25 million stressed out commuters? Edit: I think I just added about 1,000 miles and a ferry ride to your trip but it would be sooooooo gorgeous. Just an opinion. Best of luck.

I have Stage 1 on all four corners and find the front looks high and still feels soft. Any one out their use the stage 2 up front and stage 1 on the rear. Stock sway bars so I know that is part of the "soft" problem. Just curious.

Western Motorsport wideband A/F Meter with an o2 sensor on the down tube just below the exhaust manifold. Lot's of other choices out there - just happened to be what was available locally. Helps judge how much to change the jet sizes (given what a pain it is on the DGES) but I still look at the plugs to confirm after I think it's dialed. Very light tan. WMS unit gone. Here's another alternative http://www.sdsefi.com/mmm.htm The Cannon intake comes hogged.

Stock cam, Tii exhaust, Cannon intake and rebuilt long block at 4000' above sea level. 50 idle 150 main 185 air Average Air/Fuel throughout of 13.5 (+/-) though it's bit richer to 2500rpm. I find the DGES like to be rich to run smooth. With some tweaking of the air and main jets can give decent mpg on the highway (4000rpm). You could hot up the cam to improve the top end as there is lots of umph in the bottom but you'll lose some to gain the other.

Brand new fluid (DOT 4), new pads all around and less than 200 highway miles. I'm guessing the new MC is defective as both have said so the question is Tii or 530i MC to replace it and do the 320i rear drums at the same time. I would definitely like a firmer pedal with less travel. Opinions as to best match (easiest to install)? Part numbers? Tii 34311120478 530i 34311120832 Doug

I did the search and lot's of info on brake bleeding and brake up grades that may help but I'll ask anyway (thanks Bill W for the brake bleed link). The brakes will lock up the wheels when stomped on but at a traffic light with a very slight grade where little pressure should be required the pedal pressure slowly fades almost to the floor but if I pump them it firms up. I remember a post recently describing this but can't find the thread. I've had the system vacuum bleed after power bleeding it myself several times so I would be surprised if there is air in the system - but who knows. No leaks and the reservoir is full. New 320i upgrade with (re-manufactured girlings), new wheel cylinders in rear, ss brake lines and new 2002 MC. I have 320i rear drums to add and might Tii the MC. I'll continue searching but if anybody wants to throw me a bone... Doug

Idle 50 Mains 150 Air 185 Pretty stock rebuild and 4000' elevation - runs very well at roughly 13.5 A/F ratio. Doug

Did you also change the poly flex disc on the steering shaft above the steering box? Any special tricks you've learned in changing the motor mounts - without removing the tranny I hope. Doug

Do they have the matching dice?

Your friend is right. Best to go after bass with the speakers under the rear seat. I'm putting the bass/mid range 6" Boston Acoustic in enclosures under the seat (sort of mini subs) and the tweeters in the front plus a pair of 5" coaxials in the toe kicks.

I wouldn't be surprised if you could mount the amp in the trunk by fastening it to the bulkhead (vertical) between the cabin and the trunk and still get the battery relocated to the trunk. Did this in my CS before relocating the battery from the trunk to under the rear seat. Do some measuring first. On another point, having the speakers under the rear seat has some issues in terms of sound quality given that the seat is acoustically transparent - at least on mine. Sort of like just having the speakers sitting open. I'm going to find a way to build individual enclosures and see if that improves things. It's on the list of 10,000 things. Doug

The panel has to be pushed up starting at the door lock and moving to the quarter window. I used a wood block on the end of the chrome strip to get it started. It's a continuous lip that the chrome strip returns onto along the full length of the door.

Wait for Massive Sport. I have 6 x 13 et 13 Exxim rims and had to hog the caliper mounting holes out to move the caliper in towards the center. This meant that the full swept area of the pad against the rotor was in contact (a gain of about 5/32" or 15 %) and there was enough clearance in the wheel. Not a huge amount of work with a dremmel tool but I wish Lee's kit was available then - I would have chosen that in a heart beat.

Do you want low end torque or high end horsepower? The 38/38 will be easier to tune but the 40's look sexy. 38's for drivability the 40's for autocrossing. Nice looking car - was it an auto at one time - 3.91 rear end? That rear end with the pistons and cam would be quick regardless of carb choice.

Mine is set at 32 degrees total advance. Vac hose off the carb and petronix.

After a complete refurb of the suspension - front and rear - including a set of fixed negative camber plates (-5/8 degree from IE) I asked the shop to do a full alignment. He gave me the print out and the driver front actually has a slight positive camber even taking into account the negative camber plates. I checked the Blue Books and the stock setting for both the driver and passenger are positive with the driver a bit more (extra weight from the battery??). Surprised the hell out of me. So the question is - anyone fiddled with a bit more negative camber? Still winter here so I haven't driven it to see what it feels like.

http://www.designmills.com/wiki/index.php/1973_BMW_2002_Restoration http://www.my2002tii.com/ http://bmw1602.lostbrazilian.com/v1/index.php http://www.motomille.com/2002/2002.html http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,277647/ http://home.comcast.net/~visionaut/visionaut/The_2002.html The info posted in answer to questions by Bill Williams has been very helpful for a bunch of areas - especially suspension rebuild and pedal box refurb.

First search attempt http://shop.ebay.com/items/_W0QQ_dmptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQQ_sopZ1?_nkw=Cup+holder+BMW&_sacat=0&_fromfsb=&_trksid=p3286.m270.l1313&_odkw=1976+bmw+2002&_osacat=0

OK I have a confession. I have installed CUPHOLDERS in my console - cheap slid-out things off ebay. I'll try to post photos and medicate myself for the scorn and abuse that will inevitably follow but a least my brew won't spew.

You would have to buy a big dog first to do this right. Takes about an hour to switch back to seats.

Defiantly tight to the mounts. I'll check the washers are right way up and then just drive it for a while to see if it resolves itself. Almost zero miles since I did all the work. Doug

Don't worry sean, the shoring was only used once when I actually dropped the front and rear suspension (and everything attached) down with the wheel decks. I never had to stand under the car and it spent the next 6 months as shown below.

Yup - did all of that using your picture. I'll check that washer. Definitely packed the bearing with grease. Thanks

I bought this car in August of 2007 out of Portland, OR through eBay after seeing it come up but failing to meet the original reserve price. It was described as a very rust free automatic originally from CA with everything but the A/C operational, a recently rebuilt engine and no sunroof (a good thing to me). Left Calgary, Alberta (Canada - top of the globe usually) on a 4am flight through Seattle to Portland intending to drive straight back in a 18 hour blitz. Unfortunately I fell asleep at the gate at SEATAC and missed the connecting flight. Caught the next flight but had missed the owner who went back to work but eventually answered his cell phone and picked me up at the airport. Still figured the blitz was on, so, off to his bank with a money order, did a quick walk around and look under the hood and the deal was done. I have a 73 CS so I know what and where rust lives on these cars. The body was exactly as described – it must have lived in a desert because it was as close to rust free as a 31 year old car could be and the weather stripping and windshield rubber were absolutely baked. The bad news were the brakes or rather the lack of brakes. For reasons that would be clear in time I figure they were 40% if I was lucky – which I was. Hardly ever needed to use them and when I did it was well before I needed them. Coasting, engine braking and parking brakes will do lots of things if not rushed. I headed out of Portland (with my route from Mapquest) and drove up the Columbia River valley into what felt like a blast furnace with the mother of all tail winds. I swear the gas gauge was going up, not down. As the temperature rose outside it stared to creep up in the engine higher than I liked so on went the heater to pull out some heat (it worked) and on I drove in a pool of sweat – headed to Canada with another 16 hours to go at 1pm. I continued on this way through Oregon into Washington and then, at nightfall, arrived at the US/CAN border – totally fried, dehydrated and exhausted but with another 6 hours to go. Damn, these are big countries we live in! The tedious process of exiting the US and entering Canada went off without a hitch. I received a good piece of advice from the Canadian Customs official though - get a hotel room or you’ll die. The next two hours driving through deer invested mountain roads were a blur (literally) but I made it to a motel and collapsed in air-conditioned bliss for the next 8 hours. Unfortunately, somewhere in my delirious, fatigue induced drive through the night and arriving safely home the next day, I lost my passport. If you do that, it’s best if it happens in your own country. As opposed to anywhere else (Iraq, Russia, North Korea etc). Everything (except the brakes) worked and the car was fully functional. So I took it all apart. My wife really liked that part since this was “her” car. She even gave it a name - L’il Miss Butterscotch”. The car, a 76 Sahara 2002a, is now a 5spd, fully rebuilt and upgraded to urethane front and rear suspension, new MC brake cylinder, SS hoses, 320i vented front brakes (rears later) and 320i radiator with electric pusher fan. The battery was relocated to the rear and the partially de-smogged engine is now totally free breathing with all the plumbing and electrical stuff removed. A Tii exhaust manifold, 38/38 Weber and Petronix/Blaster coil combo etc etc etc. The interior is next with a set of recaro seats in getting recovered as I write this. The brakes are much better now that the calipers no longer have helicoils in the bleed screws and the wheel cylinders don’t leak. I learned a lot of things in acquiring and renovating this particular car. Some of it not soon enough. Not having to spend any money on the body doesn’t really save any money. You just spend it in other places. Hope Sheila enjoys it “completed” it as much as I did getting it that way. And on it will go. Doug

I have more or less completely rebuilt the front and rear suspension using IE Stage 1 coils, strut bearings and fixed camber plates, urethane bushings and HD Bilsteins. When I turn the front wheels full lock in either direction while moving there is a noticeable creak noise from the spring/strut assembly. Any thoughts on the cause? Less than 20 miles since the alignment was done after re-assembling this so maybe it will go away (NFW on that happening).