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doug73cs

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Everything posted by doug73cs

  1. doug73cs
    I get that " the arrows on the edge of the coupling must point to their respective flange ear. The ones pointing forward must line up with the trans flange and the ones pointing rearward must point to an ear on the driveshaft". No matter which way you turn this thing that will happen as a matter of course because the arrows alternate on side to the other. The only way to tell front from rear is what they refer to as "run out" so what is run out?
  2. doug73cs
    This is a Lemforder (sp) 6 bolt for the 5spd tranny/driveshaft from an 81 320i - part of the conversion I'm finishing. The Instructions will get posted latter.
  3. doug73cs
    I have a new six bolt flex disc to install and it even has instructions - sort of. The orientation depends on identifying the run out of the disc. What's run out and how do I identify it? Thanks
  4. doug73cs
    There is a threaded portion on the strut and collar that must effect the rebound rate of the shock absorber. Correct? Which direction of adjusting the collar up or down firms the dampening? Doug
  5. doug73cs
    Colin: I chased this around and there isn't a replacement available from BMW or after market that fits. I'm going to remove the old bushing, fill the hole with a two component urethane casting mix and drill a 10mm hole in it. This is the tricky part requiring a very percise machine shop. The urethane is very dense and cuts well so it should work well. The life span of the material will be less than the nylon original but will still be measured in years.
  6. doug73cs
    Turn the engine off? Other than all new rubber around the doors and windows it's the way it is.
  7. doug73cs
    I know nothing about the product but here's another choice. http://www.msdsinc.com/exhaust_1.htm
  8. doug73cs
    I'm working my way up to your crappy low rez car but it's going to take some time to get there!
  9. doug73cs
    Low res pictures of the car bought in Aug/07 and now in pieces getting a suspension refurbish and 5 spd. http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g120/decoupe/Total%20BMW/?mediafilter=all
  10. doug73cs
    I'm also hoping that the additional tip in at the top of the tire of about 1/4" will give a bit more clearance from the lip of the wheel arch.
  11. doug73cs
    Some of this is covered in the thread below http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,301538/ . This is a lot of carb for a 1.8l stock motor and the stumble is where the carb transitions from the idle circuit on to the mains (2-2500rpm). Check to see what your current jets are. It really is a trial and error procedure mostly with the idle jets. The "best lean idle" procedure detailed in the link http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/38_dgas_tunning.htm has been very helpful to me. After the idle circuit, experiment with the mains (watching the color of the plugs) and then the air jets for the higher revs. HTH
  12. doug73cs
    It is definitely a performance upgrade and responds best to lots of throttle and engine mods. I'll know better about the 38/38 on a stock M10 motor when I get everything back together this spring. Just bought the car in the fall, drove it for a couple of weeks and then proceeded take it all apart. The plugs were very black but then I live at 5000' and bought it in Portland, OR (+/-300') so figured that was at least part of the problem.
  13. doug73cs
    In case you haven't seen this, follow the instructions carefully to the point of religiously. Check your timing and cold valve gap first then tune. My twin carb 38/38 on my CS has about 3/4 turns out on the idle speed screw, 1 5/8 turns on the idle jet screws, and has an A/F of 12 - 13 at WOT and at 15 highway speed (3100rpm). http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/38_dgas_tunning.htm The idle jets are important for partial (around town) throttle driving to 2500 rpm after which you're into the mains. Wide open throttles is all mains and air correctors. Changing the main jets tends to effect the 2500 - 4500 range and changes to the air correctors tend to influence the 4500+ so you can play with those three variables to tailor the performance for power or or mileage or a balance of the two. I tend to run the idles a little rich so that it transitions to the mains a bit smoother. A wide band A/F ratio meter helps but between the plug colour (very light tan verging on light grey) and engine operation you should e able to get smooth performance. Good luck and take your time with the set up.
  14. doug73cs
    Don't know which is better but for convenience, spend the $20 and buy one of them. Keep organized with the parts and labeling. The mystery washer is not nearly as troubling as the bolt with no name.
  15. doug73cs
    Depending on your comfort level and the tools on hand and assuming you have access to rental shops for some larger items this is very do-able. The second time will only take a short day. The first time will take longer. First step is to buy a Haynes (or equivalent) 2002 manual and read the section on removing the engine several times. Label anything you and organize the fasteners so you get them all back on in the right place and order. Digital camera is you friend for recording this. Go to Sears (or equivalent) and buy a the biggest set of metric sockets and wrenches you can find. Buy 4 - 3 ton jack stands that have minimum 20" height and a 3 ton floor jack with at least a 20" lift. Buy a couple of trouble lights with fluorescent bulbs (much cooler). NEVER GO UNDER TO CAR IF IT ISN'T PROPERLY SUPPORT BY JACK STANDS. Avoid being the human equivalent of a bug on the windshield because you didn't! Rent the hydraulic engine hoist when you need it to pull the engine. Enjoy the process.
  16. doug73cs
    Any competent auto interior upholstery company can fab this up to a template you prepare. This will be the most effective way to do it on a local basis. You're going to have to make the plywood backing anyway and that is the majority of the work.
  17. doug73cs
    So you just use thread metric rod?
  18. doug73cs
    Remove the shroud. Four small bolts (10mm??) to undo on the front of the fan. Don't drop them. Round plate comes off with fan or if loose falls on floor. Wiggle fan, move towards rad and up. Done.
  19. doug73cs
    Just out of curiosity, I took a 16oz hammer and tapped the side of the ball joint while applying very moderate leverage. Voila!!! It separated!
  20. doug73cs
    The only item I have found using the search shows the engine attached on the exhaust side of the block. Any reason not to attach at the rear where the transmission bell bolts to the block?
  21. doug73cs
    Good point about marking it. The gear puller sounds like the way to go. Thanks all.
  22. doug73cs
    Any advice on how best to remove the pitman arm from the ball joint? Soak with WD40 and lever the arm up? The steering box is unbolted from the subframe already. Thanks
  23. doug73cs
    The width including the bumps as per your photo is 3 5/16". The plastic cover that goes over this is 3 3/4" in the middle and about 3 1/2" at the front and rear so it bulges out a bit in the middle. Doug
  24. doug73cs
    More photos of the shifter. Not sure what you sure asking about on the opening. The sides are parallel so roughly 3" x 4 1/4" regardless where measured. The car was produced in 04/1976. http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g120/decoupe/2002%20Auto/?start=20
  25. doug73cs
    More photos of the shifter. Not sure what you sure asking about on the opening. The sides are parallel so roughly 3" x 4 1/4" regardless where measured. The car was produced in 04/1976. http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g120/decoupe/2002%20Auto/?start=20
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