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doug73cs

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  1. doug73cs
    My battery is under the rear seat (deleted) and the ground run to chassis through a rear seat belt anchor (everything cleaned to bare metal). I'm going to run a ground strap from the engine to the stock ground point next to the original battery location. Should have the same net result as grounding battery to engine or do you mean literally run a cable from the negative post to the engine?
  2. doug73cs
    Good odds that its the idle circuit - most likely idle jets are too small but follow the instructions on best lean idle to dial it in. Main jets for mid range and air jets to tweak the high end. http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/38_dgas_tunning.htm
  3. doug73cs
    CD Battery 100% charge and alternator 100% - no deflection on ammeter when running electric windows and battery fully charge after driving. The starter solenoid is new and the starter serviced in June by a pro - doesn't mean it couldn't be a problem but not likely. Ground issue most likely because of random nature and everything else has been checked or replaced. Thanks, Doug
  4. doug73cs
    The bracket is attached to the tub by 4 little tack welds and who knows what preparation was done at the factory. Pretty optimistic on my part as the primary ground for the whole car but it was so easy!
  5. doug73cs
    My battery is under the rear seat and is grounded to the arm rest support bracket - bare metal contact and tight bolt. Are there differences in the strength of the ground in different locations? I still have intermittent starting issues and have eliminated the starter and solenoid (had it checked/serviced), ignition switch (new), battery disconnect, battery and alternator as causes which leaves..... ground ??? It's a 73CS.
  6. doug73cs
    Getting the idle circuit is the absolute key to making the 38/38 pull smoothly for in town driving to about 2500 rpm. Get it right and the stumble disappears. Read the "best lean idle" guide from suppliers selling weber. Getting max power at WOT is all about the mains and air jets. The venturi and emulsion tubes are more relevant for tweaked motors and hotter cams. Mine is a stock rebuild and idle is about 850.
  7. doug73cs
    Assuming you have gas at 3 psi to the carb, follow the tuning procedure on the attached link. Should help. http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/38_dgas_tunning.htm
  8. doug73cs
    You like clouds?
  9. doug73cs
    Given the improvement in tire construction, compounds and profiles I wonder if the recommended tire pressure that came from BMW is still the optimum. Guess trial and error to see what works best is one approach but I'm curious what opinions are out there in bimmerland. I run 13" Yoko Avids at 30psi. A mechanic who did the initial import inspection recommended 34psi as a starting point. Not a real fan of all seasons but can't risk true summer tires in the land of ice and snow. Doug
  10. doug73cs
    Assuming you don't have a compelling reason to change - I would'nt. The electric pump (Carter) I have in 73CS is like the mother of all mosquitos that never stops buzzing. I have tried various measures to dampen the noise with no success. If you find one that is quiet please let us know.
  11. doug73cs
    Toby - do I take it that the diameter of the backing plate is large enough to not rub the larger rotor? I haven't tried any trial assembly so far but just assumed the lip would have to be trimmed. Good idea about the holes if the backer stays.
  12. doug73cs
    Thanks Clay - I'll go with small town tight since it's all I know. If I can find a simple and clean way to trim the backers I'll try that otherwise - they are toast. Doug
  13. doug73cs
    Couple of questions not addressed in the FAQ on Vented Brakes Upgrade. Will the non tii backer plates still work with the larger rotors? What is the thickness required to shim the calipers to center? Just 1" washer seems vague. What recommendations for paint on the calipers to keep from oxidizing? What torque on the install of new wheel studs into the 320i hubs? Should lock tite be used? Anti seize paste? Thanks, Doug
  14. doug73cs
    Thought it was terminal 12 (solid green) to + on the coil.
  15. doug73cs
    Having completed the removal of all smog wiring and plumbing and with the help of some knowledgeable friends the car - 76 Sahara - is back on the road. What I don't have is the wiring from the coolant temp and oil pressure units back to the instrument panel. Do they connect through the solid green (input) wire on the #12 fuse?
  16. doug73cs
    I'm in Canada. Land of the taxed to death.
  17. doug73cs
    You can definitely get the same engine to run well (though not the same) on a range of octane with variations in the tune and set up. One thing that I haven't heard mentioned is using a wide band air/fuel meter to help set up your engine. There are several good ones around that you can install and have real time readings of what is being burned. Never equal to FI but you can optimize carbs to give best power at WOT and decent mileage at partial throttle by selecting jets according to the ratio displayed. You can trial and error to get the same results but if you use a strobe to tune doesn't it make sense to use a air/fuel meter? Way cheaper than a dyno.
  18. doug73cs
    Blunt - what brand of pads do you use front and rear for street use?
  19. doug73cs
    For E21 info and forum http://www.bmwe21.net/forum/index.php
  20. doug73cs
    I have this Carter on my 73CS. Be prepared for the mosquito on steroids buzz from the trunk. Wire to the #12 fuse (I believe correct on '02) so everything turns on with the key but wire in an inline switch that only you can reach and turn off. Comes in handy when you don't want fuel delivery. Throw in a battery disconnect switch and you have a cheap anti theft system (for about 10 minutes). Weber Redline recommends 2.5 - 3 psi so I have a fuel regulator I set with a gauge to 3psi.
  21. doug73cs
    Before pulling the whole thing apart, check the alignment of the drive shaft which I assume is two piece with a centre bearing hanger. You may get lucky and find adjusting that will help. Good luck. Enjoy the long weekend.
  22. doug73cs
    Remember that this is a conversion from auto to 5spd and the auto is actually 2.056" longer then the 5spd. Surprised me too!
  23. doug73cs
    I’m just about finished reassembling the drive train of my 1976 2002a after converting to a 5spd. In the process of doing this I dropped both front and rear sub frames and replaced all the bushings and gaskets and mounts from the engine to the rear differential and generally cleaned up the coating of oil and road goo accumulated over 33 years. The engine, transmission, steering, rear diff and half shafts are all in and the last step is to measure for the driveshaft and take it to be shortened, balanced and rebuilt. So my question is how to get everything squared and positioned to give the most accurate dimension the first time. Because the diff and one engine mount are slotted, getting the centerline has some degree of flexibility at both ends. Because the diff is slotted, getting the half shafts squared and centered to the diff and the whole thing squared to the centerline of the car is also problematic. What I assume is the best approach (and maybe the only approach) to all this is get the rear end as close as possible, measure and build the driveshaft, install the driveshaft and then somehow (string line???) align the whole thing as a unit. Does this sound reasonable or just a bit obsessive? Any advice welcomed. So near yet so far. Thanks
  24. doug73cs
    Polyethylene is great stuff for this use. These look like they are made to fit with fender flares. For us stock wheel arches types can this be heated and reformed to blend in or is it just cut and refinish? Doug
  25. doug73cs
    Duh! My light just went on. Now I see what the mean (Though I think they have made the directions overly complicated).
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