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doug73cs

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  1. doug73cs
    Assuming the link works, this is the bit I used. If the bolts are torqued to spec I don't forsee any problems - you could fill the space left by slotting with JB Weld but probably not worth the effort it takes. http://www.dremel.com/en-us/AttachmentsAndAccessories/Pages/AttachmentsDetail.aspx?pid=932
  2. doug73cs
    Wish I had taken pictures. The grinding of the two bolt holes that mount the caliper to the hub in order to move the caliper towards the centre involves maybe 1/8" to 3/16". The dremel bit is cylindrical, close to the diameter to the hole and about the same depth. If you buy the kit from IE or Ardvarc I think they weld over the hole and redrill it to do the same thing. Worth checking. Doug
  3. doug73cs
    I did the 320i front upgrade with et 11 5.5" x 13" Exxim rims. In order to make it work I had to slot the holes for the mounting bolts with a dremel in order to move the caliper inboard and clear the inside of the wheel. This is actually a good thing because that means the entire pad will contact the rotor - which is not the case using the caliper holes. You lose about 3/16" of contact if you don't slot the holes. Sorry no pics. Doug
  4. doug73cs

    Avatar test

    doug73cs posted a topic in Test Forum

    Just testing
  5. doug73cs
    If it has coils in the rear suspension - put in air lift bladders so you can REALLY over load it. Spare m10 long block or two should do it.
  6. doug73cs
    Measured just above the flex disc is 16mm. Real OEM shows 14mm? 07 STEERING SPINDLE M 14X1,5 1 32311114192 Doug
  7. doug73cs
    What widths and diameters did the bottle cap come in? Just curious and looking for an alternative to my et 11 13" x 5.5" Eximm basket cases. Thanks
  8. doug73cs
    Hey, take off, eh. My brother was on Reach for the Top in the 60's - too funny.
  9. doug73cs
    Hi tiitouring02: What exactly is a "Canadian spec" 2000Tii Touring? I have lurid visions of beaver pelt seat covers and a vanity license plate BMW Eh? Course if it truly was a Canadian it would have been reduced to rust by a steady 12 month a year diet of rock salt. The above said in the spirit of good humour. On the topic of the shits pawing our cars - I keep mine covered in a fine patina of dust that makes their clothes look dirty if they get too close. Plus my ski racer daughters have taught me to spit with devastating accuracy. Doug in Canada, eh?
  10. doug73cs
    Pads are Metal Master and new and good vacuum from the booster. Feels more like rear brake pads not quite close enough to drums - (to much free play) or there is still air in the MC or brake pressure sensor.
  11. doug73cs
    Thanks - I won't bother fighting the top pivot clip. Doug
  12. doug73cs
    Lee: So the length of the rod has no effect on braking? I would have thought if it wasn't the correct (or within a range of adjustment) that you wouldn't get the MC to produce 100% pressure. I'm still working through my brake (lack of) issues and was going to try adjustments on the rod to see if there is anything to be gained. Doug
  13. doug73cs
    I received this from Samstag. Probably quicker to modify a cheap 17mm wrench. Doug, Thanks for contacting Samstag Sales. We have this on our order list , but we are not selling much of this brand. It may be 2 months before the list is large enough to release the shipment. I will put you on the list and send a quote as soon as we have this in stock. Best Regards, Andrew Poston Sales Manager
  14. doug73cs
    William: Thanks for the picture - I'll try this first.
  15. doug73cs
    Curt: Dimensions would be very helpful - I've emailed Samstag but always good to have options in case this goes out of production or is delayed. I made a set of 17mm and 19mm offset wrenches (flat bar stock and closed end box wrench) to undo the "fuck nuts" on the Getrag 265 in my CS. They are called fuck nuts because there is no way any standard wrench will work and you have to pull the engine to remove the tranny. Doug
  16. doug73cs
    Politicians - at least it would be a fair fight.
  17. doug73cs
    Thanks to both of you. I sent an email to Samstag and check BavAuto (couldn't find a listing for it there). My Exxim 13" are ET 11 so this should work. Doug
  18. doug73cs
    I saw a post (c.d. ???) of a flat steel tool for adjustment the eccentric bolts on the rear brakes. Still available? Part number or an after market equivilent (at a lower price)? Does it allow adjustment with the wheels on? Thanks
  19. doug73cs
    But if I'm clumsy enough to touch the power block to ground with a wrench then the switch isn't going to help is it? Think I'll move things around to cut the positive instead. Nothing to do with the starting issues and charges just fine but...
  20. doug73cs
    Firstly my apologies to sblend for hijacking but I hope this may also help you. Curt: I've attached three photos showing the installation in my CS. First shows the engine ground from the original ground point to the alternator mounting bolt/bracket - 4ga cable. this in addition the the stock braided strap engine to transmission mount. Also shows the red 4ga cable alternator to main power block with two black 4ga cables - one to battery and one to starter. Second repeats view at alternator of red cable to power block and black cable to engine ground through bracket. Last is the pair of Odyssey PC680 in parallel with 4ga cable to rear seat belt anchor. In this arrangement the disconnect switch cuts the ground not the power so the post would be hot if short to the chassis. Got this from a book and have always wondered if it shouldn't be the other way. Voltage was measured at the alternator, at the solenoid and at the battery. Comments on the battery disconnect at ground? Voltage loss? Doug?
  21. doug73cs
    My version of the same question. I have 14v at the alternator, 12v + at the battery and less than 11.4v at the starter solenoid. 4 ga grounds at the alternator, engine block and battery. Rebuilt stater. Gives me intermittent start problems - lot's of amp not enough volts. New ignition switch and 8 ga wire from the switch to starter. Not much to go wrong but still does. Doug
  22. doug73cs
    Bob: Have heard comments both ways on Metric Mechanic engines. How long have you had yours and any comments pro/con. Sorry about the thread jacking. Doug
  23. doug73cs
    I'll be very interested in your project as I plan to convert my twin carb m30 3.5 litre CS to SDS EFI both ignition and fuel management. I'm less than 45 minutes from their shop and have a hanger at the Springbank airport where they are located. If I can be of any help to you let me know. Doug
  24. doug73cs
    Jim: By master cylinder rod, do you mean the rod connecting the brake pedal linkage through the booster to the MC as in the diagram? I don't remember seeing any adjustment in the MC - just the hollow metal sleeve that went into the booster. I'll check the length of the rod to see if I get the full range of motion. I'm also going to try bleeding the MC in place. Pressurize the system and open the individual line connections and run some fluid out along with any air. Messy but hope that would help. Thanks for the advice - I'll post any results. Doug
  25. doug73cs
    I'm either a genius or really stupid. I just reversed the spade connectors on the two terminals and the light went out. Still works when the parking brake is set so I'll assume this is not related to the brake function. My apologies for the fuss. Now I just have to figure out why my brakes don't perform as they should. Next to check is the pedal linkage to the booster. This car was an automatic when I bought it and is now a 5 spd. Rebuilt the pedal box with Bill Williams post as a guide (thanks) so everything has been apart and maybe the linkage needs further adjustment. The pedal effort seems consistent from top to bottom but I run out of travel before the wheels are even close to locking up. Scary stuff. Doug
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