doug73cs

My very clean 99.9% rust free but not stock (converted 5spd from auto) 1976 Sahara was evaluated by a pro this summer at $13,000. The link below is before I did a full 5 spd conversion, interior and suspension rebuild. http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g120/decoupe/Total%20BMW/ Last I looked the loon and buck were within spitting distance of each other - not that I encourage that sort of thing. Doug

john_a and Tommy: Kudos to both of you. So now I know the difference between metric and UNC bolt markings. I suspect what I have is a 5/16 x 18 as you said. Thanks for the knowledge and patience. If you need advice in tuning race skis I'm your guy - automotive hardware - not so much. The bolt in question (which I should have posted at the start). Duhg (Doug)

john_a and everyone else involved; Hope everyones sense of humour is still intact on this one and I appreciate the info and perspectives. My first query did state that this was on an m30 in a 73CS. I asked on this site because that depth of knowledge is astounding (just look at this thread) and response is quick). The mounting bracket for the A/C compressor was attached to two holes that are definitely stock and the threads cut into it at the factory. The threads are definitely not the pitch of the 8mm that the timing cover is fastened to the block which I assume is "fine" 1.25/MM. The same pitch (definite) is used on the 10mm bolt at the top of the bracket and I'm pretty sure the motor mounts are the same pitch (much larger diameter of course). The bolt (#17 in the attached Real OEM http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=3435&mospid=47811&btnr=64_0872&hg=64&fg=55) is what holds the A/C bracket to the block and is 8mm x 22mm - no pitch indicted but it is "coarse". I need a 55mm version of this in the same pitch. I might have to try the heli-coil idea but I'm going to try a couple of other 8mm bolts that are used in the block to see if they are the same pitch. I've been using the Cross Reference function to see where other bolts are used but I'm trying to find a different length and that search just shows where that part is used in other places or series. For the sake of everyones sanity I think this is pretty much done as a topic but thanks to all for the effort. I'm the first to admit I know just enough to be dangerous. Doug

"I don't quite understand what's problem with RealOEM? To me it looks there is every bolt in part diagrams and a part number for each of them??" Tommy It lists the diameter and length of every bolt but not the pitch and the ones I pulled from the tranny and timing cover were all fine (1.25/mm)pitch and the hole is cut for medium (1.5/mm). My point is that Real OEM and all the other open catalogues (Maximillian et al) don't list pitch which does matter unless you're trying to find hardware for the little projects we engage in - like my bracket for the EFI pickup. Doug

I don't quite understand what's problem with RealOEM? To me it looks there is every bolt in part diagrams and a part number for each of them?? Tommy It lists the diameter and length of every bolt but not the pitch and the ones I pulled from the tranny and timing cover were all fine (1.25/mm)pitch and the hole is cut for medium (1.5/mm). My point is that Real OEM and all the other open catalogues (Maximillian et al) don't list pitch which does matter unless you're trying to find hardware for the little projects we engage in - like my bracket for the EFI pickup. Doug

Thanks to all for the suggestions and info but nothing seems to list the pitch of the bolts that I hoped to use, 07 11 9 912 524 and all of the other transmission/timing cover bolts are fine threads (1.25/mm) so they don't work in the holes in the block (1.5/mm) and I use mac so the ETK I have for my CS won't run (but I don't think it lists pitch in the Standard Hardware tab). So the quest for 8mm x 1.5 x 55mm coarse thread) continues but as usual the 2002faq.com provided lots of insight and info. I'll find something after Christmas. Doug

Tommy: The link http://www.douglasind.com/ that Roger mentioned refers to the bolts as coarse fine and extra fine so the terminology is somewhat flexible. I assume that BMW uses all three pitches. Availability through the dealer is fine as long as there is a part number and I don't have the ETK listing so Real OEM or the similar is what I have to work with. Is ETK online as an open source? Thanks,

Bent: Damn that was quick and probably right as well. Thanks for the suggestion. I should have thought this through - look the bolts into the m30 block because they'll all probably be coarse threads. Thanks to all, Doug Edit: I have a a spare Getrag 265 tranny with at least 6 07 11 9 912 524!!!!

I'm trying to find 2 - 8mm x 55mm (minimum) COARSE thread bolts to install a bracket for my EFI timing pickup using the existing holes on the block for the A/C compressor and I can't find a source (small town). The only shop with metric bolts in the nearest city only has fine thread. M30 on a 73CS. Is there such a thing as a listing of bolts used by BMW (Real OEM Bolts.com???) or does anyone know of a part number for bolts of that length for one of the many series of BMW's produced? The dealer just glazes over when I ask questions without parts numbers - "we don't sell bolts - just parts". Weird question but I thought I'd try. Merry and Happy in the upcoming holiday. Doug

Just to add to the range of options http://www.racetep.com/weber/0245single.html Doug

Matt: Would doing this type of reinforcement work on the CS rockers? Have you done this on any CS resto's? Doug

Al: The bracket is common to the 2002, e3, e9 and e21 but the shock is not. Maybe your design takes this into account. Part 51111830645 (SUPPORT SHOCK ABSORBER FRONT) was found on the following vehicles: 114: Details on 114 114 2002 Sedan 114 2002tii Sedan E21: Details on E21 E21 320i Sedan E3: Details on E3 E3 3.0S Sedan E3 3.0SBav Sedan E3 3.0Si Sedan E9: Details on E9 E9 3.0CS Coupe Part 51111826689 (ENERGY ABSORBER FOR BUMPER) was found on the following vehicles: 114: Details on 114 114 2002 Sedan 114 2002tii Sedan The ignition switch went out this afternoon. Doug

Sure - pull the hoses off the heater box and connect them with a straight run (actually two elbows and a straight run) of 1/2" copper pipe (or whatever you have that is heat rated). Ran my CS that way all summer. Take your time on the rehab and get the heater core pressure tested.

Try Coupeking http://www.coupeking.com/product_id-408.html

If you want to make an indie road trip movie about young film dude driving to the primo career making event - go for it - recognizing that that film will be full of character building troubles that culminate in driving off a cliff and surviving while the car (that's his beloved 2002) bursts into flames before sinking into the raging river. But then you've already made the film so do you need the angst? Let us know how it ends for you. Doug PS: There's a winter storm warning here in the Rockies with temps -19c and high wind. Should hit SLC in about 36 hours.

You need our help in coming up with a list of presents for yourself? That would require some serious coin to finance so let's start big with a restored BMW 507 at $500k minimum. Next? A definite Merry Christmas to you all.

http://www.racing-seats-usa.com/

In front of a bank vault - how appropriate!

Congrats and thanks! Good ideas worth stealing. A very clean method to run the cable and leave your self optional high current sources in the cab rather than running everything back from the engine compartment. It also gets rid of the interference (for the kick panel speakers mounts I'm forming) of an extra cable by routing it behind the bulkhead. Doug

The 02 and Tii MC will both work (the Tii only with big brake upgrades) - doesn't appear any others will. And bench bleed the MC before installing or buy a couple of gallons of brake fluid and prepare for the root canal of getting the air out. Part Cross-reference RealOEM.com Home Part 34311113656 (BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER) was found on the following vehicles: 114: Details on 114 114 1602 Sedan 114 2002 Sedan

How about a description/summary of what solved the problem.

Just wondering - if you unhook the spring in the pedal box on the brake pedal, where does the pedal sit? Does it flop part way down to where you start to feel resistance when braking? Maybe the rod is adjusted too long? Thanks to c.d for the diagram

Do the brakes work? Do they work well? If so, then it isn't air in the hydraulic lines.

Anyone out there with the Sebring muffler for 2002haus? http://www.2002haus.com/sebring_exhaust.htm Might be an alternative system to consider. Doug

Another comparable direct fire alternative - better wait for the currency to correct. http://www.sdsefi.com/