doug73cs

MarHyde, Wurth, Eastwood and Por-15 all feature a line of rust encapsulator treatments for surface rust. I'm considering using it only for surface rust in either hard to reach areas, inside of doors, rear quarter panels and floors before sound control treatment - places that sanding and grinding is a major pain and media blasting a global mess. Anyone had any experience with them? Doug

I did this upgrade on the rear only on my 68 and it locks the RT side rear wheel under hard braking and no passengers. I just purchased this from Ireland to try and balance it back out: Let us know how this turns out. Anyone using this with the 320i front and rear upgrade (including the MC)?

Pull the head and fix that f******ing oil leak at the upper timing chain cover. Install the speakers in the FRP kick panels I bought from eurotrash. Figure out why my brake warning light is always on. Convince myself that the 320i brake upgrade I did is set up and performs 100% (feels vague/soft not firm). New front windshield and rubber gaskets all around. Commit to keeping her or selling to focus all the family wealth on the CS. Doug

Thanks to all for the comments. On my list of things to do before the headliner goes back in. Colin - just type in structural foam on any online autobody products retailer search function and you should get something. DOW Chemical supplies a lot of the OEM foams under their Betafoam line of products. http://search.store.yahoo.net/yhst-61185342264016/cgi-bin/nsearch?catalog=yhst-61185342264016&query=structural+foam&Go.x=0&Go.y=0&Go=search Doug

I've found suppliers for structural foam used by Ford and Lexus to add stiffness to ABC pillars and sills and understand the general procedure for doing this but some first hand experience would be appreciated. The expansion factor inside A and C pillars in particular, prepping for the injection (POR-15 maybe?) and any helpful hints? I believe someone named Fred has done this but anyone else with experience comments would be appreciated. Doug

BentHare - Here's a full size (I hope) Anthony - I hope the dried out rubber swells in time to stop me sinking before the boats get launched. How was the chump car campaign?

This is BMW's purpose built landing craft for nautical assaults. I load the boats on when winter is done beating the crap out of our roads and have it ready to go whenever the weather looks promising. It's in bed sleeping for the winter. Doug

I have a battery disconnect with a removable key located in the rear seat floor bulkhead. It's almost invisible to the casual observer. Every car should have one anyway but it provides a first line of disable anti-theft.

Toby: Yup, that's where I think it is coming from. Is trying to seal the front timing case a waste of time? It could originate under the head and be forced out under the timing chain cover. Thanks

Answers to questions/suggestions and a photo of the seepage area. The oil seeps down below the first intake port but looking at the photo it is entirely possible and maybe most likely that the leak is at the timing case cover as Toby suggests and just follows gravity and the casting back until it reaches a point where it can run down the block. There is no oil seep around the fuel pump gasket - dry and clean. I have not re-torqued the head nor have I touch the motor as I bought the car with a supposedly stock re-build (but no paper on the work). Given the very clean valve gear (zero sludge shiny bright metal), no smoke and good performance I believe this is the case. It has 8,000mi on it but I'll check the torque numbers. Sounds like clean and re-seal the upper timing case cover gasket is worth a try first but I have a feeling getting a better seal given the difficulty in cleaning the surfaces of the lower timing case/head gasket joint is problematic. Worth a try though. Thanks to all and CD - great info on correct procedure for the install.

Never having done this before I thought I would ask. So new gasket, bolts and sealant of some sort. RTF silicon? A friend suggested a cutting ring head gasket would help increase the chance of success. The seep is driver side below the first intake/timing case cover. Classic location.

Would a cutting ring head gasket help stop leaking? Overkill and $$$$ I know but I only want to do this once. Thx

Yeah, but I can be cheap too. New it is Mr Blunt.

I'm going to try to fix the oil seepage at the cylinder head gasket with RTF. Re-use the gasket (8,000mi on it) and bolts or splurge on new ones? Guessing the answer but always optomistic. Doug

On the icy packed snow starts - 2nd gear not first. All seasons are really no season. Studs help on ice but not so much in snow. Real winter tires are the way to go - new set of Continental Extreme Winter Contact to try. What ever happened to the Subie WRX chassis transplant into the '02 body. That wold be the ultimate winter car!

Thanks Bill, I'll have a look and possibly some questions later. Doug

Can anyone (Bill W preferably) provide a link to the roof transplant posting? Searched but lost in the prolific returns. No doubt will have questions - this pertains to a 73 CS. Doug

I like the look of the e21 without the accordion pleats - too bad the holes are there. Nice job on the fit.

1976 2002 with 38/38 and Canon manifold. Not positive on the engine specs as nothing was provided by the PO but apparently stock rebuild with less than 10,000 miles on and a very good runner. Petronix and a mechanical dist are the only upgrades. Altitude is 4000' Idle 145 Main 145 Air 185 Idle should be tuned using Best Lean Idle outline explicitly and exactly as stated in http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/38_dgas_tunning.htm and the trick is to get the jet that produces the least (preferably no) stumble when it transitions to the main jets around 2500rpm. You should be no more than 1 turn on the idle screw adjustment. All of your part throttle driving around town is done on the idle and the mains don't get involved unless your right foot tells them to. Mains and Air are best set with a Air/Fuel ratio wideband sensor which means installing an oxygen sensor in the exhaust down pipe. In my simplistic experience the main jets are 2500 - 4500 and the air is for tweaking 4500 to redline. So set the main jets to give about 13.0 AF on the meter for the 2500 - 4500 range and the Air jets to maintain that 13.0 target to redline. Of course, then you don't need the AF meter anymore but it is cool watching the numbers in the display. Because it's largely a set and forget proposition, a group of weber guys could share one meter and your permanent investment is just the sensor bung. My 2 cents worth. Doug

Here's something that has been used on the '02 http://www.ezpowersteering.nl/index.php?p=2

Military - launch vehicle for the Canadian Navy.

Thanks to all. RTV first with all the remedial work I can do and hope for the best. The engine is shiny and bright except for the oil slick running down from the leak. Grrrr. Doug

I have inherited the classic engine rebuild faux pas from the previous owner. The machine shop neglected to plane both the block and timing cover case at the same time and the engine - which runs very well - weeps oil when hot at the head gasket just behind the timing case/block. There were no details on the rebuild but I assume it is to stock specs. I know the right thing to do would be pull the whole thing and get it decked as a unit but since the engine is good is there any merit in suing RTF gasket sealant? Any experience with this as a fix? Doug

Thanks for the tips. I used very thin black foam tabs to shim the glass against the mounting tabs before clamping with the twist rings. No more buzzing. The cluster itself was very clean (like new) and bright LED's installed by the previous owner. Should have thought to look at the my2002tii website - great resource for just about anything to do with the e10. Doug

Thanks, I have removed the instrument cluster and disassembled the twist rings and glass. Only the speedo glass is tight in the opening - the other two have enough slop that they can rattle side to side in the opening and the twist locks don't put enough forward pressure to stop the movement. I'll fudge that. Surprisingly clean and dust free in there. Just polish the glass and reassemble. Doug