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doug73cs

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Everything posted by doug73cs

  1. doug73cs
    Used both electrical and mechanical (currently mechanical on the 2002) - both with a pressure regulator set to 2.5 - 3psi.
  2. doug73cs
    John: Thanks for the drawing. I've done all of the pre-installation bleed, installed the MC and bled to system as per the faq guide. 100% air free in the hardlines and MC - until I push the brake pedal. Doug
  3. doug73cs
    Thanks CD - still pondering the air infiltration. Doug
  4. doug73cs
    Anyone who can post a cross section view of a Tii or 2002 master cylinder - I would appreciate the help. C.D. ? Doug
  5. doug73cs
    Bill: The pedal starts out firm but after a few pumps - regardless of how hard - goes soft and if pressed really hard will go to the floor but still with some resistence. Braking is definitely compromised and totally unable to lock up the wheels in a panic stop. There is an obvious air leak at the rubber plug/nylon connectors or at the MC/booster. All those parts (Tii MC and O ring, rubber plugs and connectors) are new. There is no loss of fluid either when sitting or running. This is actually the 2nd new MC since I had first installed a 2002 MC which which didn't improve the same braking issues that this car has had since the day I bought in in 2006. That is when I embarked on the rebuild and upgrade thinking I would solve the problem by eliminating all of the parts. Enough air is entering the rear fill chamber of the MC on the low pressure side that eventually it is pushed into the high pressure side of the hydraulics. So I can bleed all I want and probably have great brakes the first time I push the pedal but then.... Arrrrrrrrrrgh, Doug
  6. doug73cs
    Thanks for the input - my answers... I'm assuming that it is one of the connnections at the MC related to the pedal/piston movement and only effects the one port. The brake performance does not improve with driving. To be honest I'm afraid to drive it with the brakes this way. The air bubbles only occur when the brake pedal is pushed. There is no fluid loss in the 100km in 1 1/2 years I've driven it. The idea of bleeding while the engine runs is interesting - no harm trying. Any others? Doug
  7. doug73cs
    EDIT 5pm I pulled the nylon nipple out and removed the rubber plug and neither showed any damage and reinstalled it - they are the correct and new parts. While my wife pushed the brake pedal and I pushed/pulled/squeezed/jiggled the plug and nipple but no effect/improvement. There is still this little cycle of air being drawn in to the MC chamber that serves to maintain fluid in the system and then bubbles up the hose to the reservoir. No matter how often I pump the pedal and all that air enters the MC and bubbles up the hose, there is no lose of fluid. Damn strange and incredibly frustrating. Is it possible for this leak to be from the booster/MC connection? At the O-ring? I had discounted this since the fluid level never drops regards of the amount of air entering the MC so I assumed there was no leak into the booster. Pull the MC and check the O-ring and look in the booster the next step? Doug
  8. doug73cs
    Didn't mean to poach you thread chipperworks. Sorry.
  9. doug73cs
    I have been fighting similar symptoms after a complete upgrade to 320i front and rears, new Tii master and literally replacing everything (with new OEM) but the hard lines on my 76 Sahara. Almost. Absolutely no leaks anywhere. After repeated power bleeding produced bubble free fluid I still have brakes that are 50% of what I consider to be safe after the first jab on the brakes. I just had a friend help with the old school pump, hold, bleed, close and release method at which time he noticed bubbles rising in the reservoir (which I never noticed since I was at the four corners doing the bleeding). I told him to pump the brake pedal while I watched and there was a stream of air bubbles rising from the rear (closest to the booster) fill port from the reservoir with every push. Looked like a hookah! It looks like the rubber plug/nylon nipple connection is tight enough that it doesn't leak against the 6" of head to the reservoir but is weak enough to allow air to be sucked in when the piston forces the fluid in the MC. When the pedal is released the bubbles rise up the hose. No doubt there is a little air entering the high pressure side of the brake system as a result all this air in the fill chamber. Didn't mean to hi-jack the thread but it is one more thing for you to check and an example why doing it old school might be better. Doug
  10. doug73cs
    Good group of people http://www.bmwe21.net/forum/
  11. doug73cs
    My family refers to the storage bay we rent as the petting zoo.
  12. doug73cs
    Grab the front bumper as well and switch it out for the stock '02 - the profile is a better match for the 02 nose. Collapse the front shocks and looks even better. On my list of to do's. Doug
  13. doug73cs
    Thanks to all. McMaster has aluminum fittings that will do the trick. Doug
  14. doug73cs
    I'm making a surge tank with four lines for my fuel system and am having trouble finding an online source of 8mm barbed or flared fuel fittings to weld to a small tank. I'm try to avoid the AN fittings which have weld in bungs. http://sdsefi.com/techsurge.htm Any suggested links? Doug
  15. doug73cs
    Cheap and room for two with a change tray above. Bought off ebay for $20. And it does fit in a DIN opening.
  16. doug73cs
    Start by reading this http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/80/32/ then read the articles in the FAQ's http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/section/3/32/ and start trolling the Cars for Sale section but read at least the 30 most recent postings - not just the current posts http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewforum/f,5/ and have a qualified KNOWLEDGEABLE individual look at your potential purchases. Have fun.
  17. doug73cs
    Send an email to Ross Farnham at SDS (racetech1@telus.net) or call 403-671-4015 and describe what you want to do. Very helpful and about as low pressure as you will ever find. Doug
  18. doug73cs
    Not advocating or trying to sell the stuff but adhesion and risk of falling of under the headliner would definitely NOT be something I would worry about with Quiet Coat or similar products. Doug
  19. doug73cs
    Not advocating or trying to sell the stuff but adhesion and risk of falling of under the headliner would definitely NOT be something I would worry about with Quiet Coat or similar products. Doug
  20. doug73cs
    Mark: The interior was done by the previous owner in my 73CS Coupe. Front seats are Recaro - supper support for skinny people. Red leather is Salsa and used in Merc's from the 1908's. Doug
  21. doug73cs
    I used Quiet Sound in my CS in the rear seat floor and bulkhead separating the trunk. Works very well at treating hard to reach or irregular areas. As for as performance - it made a significant difference from both road noise from the wheel wells and noise coming through the trunk bulkhead. I would also recommend using the putty product they sell to plug an and all holes between the trunk and the passenger compartments - these are like holes in a wall and transmit lots of sound. One day when the whole car gets stripped and treated I will use this or similar product (http://www.lizardskin.com/) for sound and heat control. Doug
  22. doug73cs
    Ditto on slotting the mounting holes which moves the caliper towards the centre of the wheel leaving more space at the rim. Dremmel tool with the SiO2 cylinder grinding bit. Also means the entire pad is in contact with the rotors. Did that with my shitty ET 11 - 13' x 5.5" Exxim rims and it clears nicely.
  23. doug73cs
    Thanks john_a. re: nuts and bolts - I ended up re-tapping the holes for an 8mm x1.25 (probably the bottom half was virgin threads) and I now have an all metric engine.
  24. doug73cs
    When viewed from the front does the crankshaft rotate clockwise? Relates to an edis conversion. Thanks
  25. doug73cs
    The evaluator spent two hours going over the car including time underneath and produced a 13 page report that evaluated the condition of just about every major component and system. Six pages were photos. He was more familiar with the classic muscle car market but had done lots of market comparable and recent sale research. I thought I had scanned it but just have it as hard copy. Sad to say it has little bearing on what you spent and more on what you will get. Doug
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