Mark92131

I got an e-mail that the Swan Neck Reproduction mirrors were now available. Hopefully, their early grill set is near completion. Mark92131 Manufacturer of Vintage Car Parts,MVP,BMW2002,BMW,bmwclassiccars,bmwclassic,bmw2002classic,bmw02club,mvpvintageparts,recreate a legacy WWW.MVPVINTAGEPARTS.COM Manufacturer of Vintage Car Parts,MVP,BMW2002,BMW,bmwclassiccars,bmwclassic,bmw2002classic,bmw02club,mvpvintageparts,recreate a legacy

OK, it's been a while, but the road to the next milestone, (firing the motor) is getting shorter. In the last post, I had some things that needed solving, how to marry the passenger side heater core hose to the bigger connection on the back of the head and other issues like throttle cable linkage and installing the driveshaft. I happy to report that most of those issues are resolved. Coolant Connections I needed to connect the passenger side heater core to the back of the head and the upper radiator hose to shortened coolant pipe. All solutions were found on Amazon. I had the original hose out of the back of the head, found a 3/4 to 5/8 hose barb fitting reducer and used it to connect the 5/8 heater hose from the heater core. The upper radiator hose was trickier, the connection to the coolant pipe was 36mm and the radiator upper connector was 32mm. I found silicone 38mm hose with a 90 degree elbow bend and a 32mm hose with a 90 degree elbow bend, cut them to size and married them together with a 1.25" to 1.5" coupler/reducer. Transmission/Driveshaft This was more challenging than it needed to be. First off, the car had originally been set up for a Getrag 245 5-speed. The factory mounts had been cut off and rewelded in the transmission tunnel. So easy, just use these existing mounts. No so fast, the original owner was probably using a "dangler" shift platform, because the lower brace setup on the Blunt 5-speed shift platform was interfering with the transmission mount on the driver's side. I thought about cutting out the repositioned factory mounts, but ended up modifying the lower brace that attaches to the trans, slotting the mounting hole so I could move it up to clear the transmission mount. The transmission support was fabricated from a piece of "C" Channel stock I bought at Home Depot. I slotted the support bar mounting holes for some adjustment and also slotted the hole for the rubber transmission mount (E3). When the transmission tail was lifted up, it sat pretty much in the middle of the tunnel, but the shift platform was pushed to the passenger side. With the slotted, hole for the rubber transmission mount I was able to move the transmission closer to the driver's side of the tunnel and center the platform. Now the easy part, just install the driveshaft, NOT! I had purchased this pre-shortened driveshaft from IE years back, but had never tried to install it in a car. I installed the metal alignment Guibo from @halboyles at 2002sOnly on the driveshaft and bolted it to the output flange of the Getrag 245 and then attached the center bearing to the frame to see how square and level the front section of the driveshaft was sitting without any shimming. Turns out it was pretty square at the stock position, but I added a larger fender washer under the E3 rubber transmission mount to lift the output flange slightly and it sat perfectly square. I swapped out the metal Guibo for the OEM rubber one, loosely reattached the center bearing and moved back to the differential connection. Nope, the driveshaft was about 3/8" too long. I loosened the 4 nuts holding the differential to the subframe and loosened the nuts on the differential hanger and pushed the differential back as far as it would go, still about 1/4"too long. OK, maybe I can get the motor to move forward 1/4". I loosened the motor mounts (swapped the driver's side motor mount completely out because the metal cup was installed facing the wrong way), and pushed the motor forward as far as it would go and retorqued the motor mounts. The differential flange and driveshaft were square, but their is a 1-2mm round ridge in center of the driveshaft shaft flange that still would not clear. I finally removed all the large 19mm bolts and nut holding the differential to the subframe and managed to slide the round ridge into the mating cup on the differential. I torqued the Guibo nuts, the driveshaft to differential nuts, the differential to subframe nuts, the differential hanger nuts and finally preloaded the center bearing and bolted that in. While I was under there, I noticed that the front sway bar was nearly touching the passenger side strut, while the driver's side had a 3/4' gap. I loosened all the sway bar attachments and used a rubber mallet to persuade the sway bar to an even position between the strut tubes. Retightened everything and breathed a sigh of relief that the drivetrain was finally complete. Brakes and Clutch In my last blog post, I mentioned my bonehead idea of connecting the clutch slave cylinder hose to the clutch master and promptly cross threading the fitting. OK, so while I was struggling with the transmission and driveshaft, I decided to correct my mistake. I pulled the clutch master, put it on the bench and used a M10 x 1.0 tap to clean up the buggered threads in the clutch master. For the fitting for the clutch slave hose to the master, the M10 x 1.0 Die wasn't threading straight, so I purchased Metric thread restoring file and used it to clean up the fitting. I attached the clutch master to the hose fitting under the car and then installed the clutch master back in the pedal box. Now that all the connections we good, I filled the brake fluid reservoir with fresh Dot 4 and used my homemade pressure bleeder to bleed the brakes and clutch. Everything was going great until I noticed a small pool of brake fluid under the rear subframe. The hard line fitting from the rear splitter to the passenger side control arm soft line was leaking under pressure. I used a "crows foot" to hold the soft line fitting so I tighten the hard line fitting and the leak stopped. It didn't take long to get the air out and the brake pedal was firm. The clutch was quick and easy, no leaks or drama. Throttle Cable I have done a number of throttle cable solutions for my cars over the years, (mostly Lynx, based on the TEP solution). The S14 conversion is a little challenging because the throttle lever pull in up on top of the motor and I'm not using the stock air cleaner. So I decided to fabricate something that should give me a working throttle until I come up with something better. First I had to straighten the "Z" lever for the gas pedal, so removed it and beat it into shape. I found some metal pieces at Home Depot and used my angle grinder to fabricate a plate that attaches to the top 2 studs that hold the brake booster to the brake booster support. I then bent that plate to fold over the brake booster and give me a spot to weld on a bracket to hold the cable that connects to the throttle lever. The other bracket is just an "L" that attaches to passenger side of the pedal box support structure that attaches to the brake booster support. I attached a cable fitting to the end of the throttle lever on the pedal box, ran a wire through the sleeve between the two brackets I fabricated, and attached the other end to throttle lever on the ITB's using a barrel fitting to hold the wire. It's not the best solution, but it works and I did manage to get it to pull WOT with the stock components. I may rework it with a Bell Crank, but after I get this thing started. Steering I did manage to get the missing horn ring installed and then installed the steering shaft and my 320i Sport Steering Wheel. I tried to order a new shroud for the Sport Wheel because the PO broke off all the plastic pieces holding it to the wheel and tried to glue it on. Turns out that these are now NLA and I did find one in Europe for $200, so I might be regluing mine as well. Of course when I put everything together and tried turning the wheel, it would not turn. I knew I would need to hammer on the down header of the S14 in order to make enough room for the top of the pitman arm nut at the center link to clear the header on the passenger side. I was thinking about why the car steering wheel wouldn't turn and had a epiphany! Maybe the Steering Wheel is LOCKED! Turned the key, Steering Wheel turns, what a dope! I spent the afternoon hammering on the S14 header, man that thing is stout. Eventually, wheel turns lock to lock in both directions. Next Up Electrical systems test Thanks for checking in! Mark92131 IMG_3803.MOV

It depends on what distributor number you are running, a combination of mechanical and vacuum advance at a set peak RPM. Here's a chart for BMW motors that may have your distributor part number. Mark92131

Can you get a small 1/4" socket on those 2 nuts in your last picture with the dash in place? I think that will free the bezel, exposing the screws that hold the lever mechanism to the dash. Pulling the dash is not a fun job. Mark92131

Promotion to Deputy Director of the CIA called for an upgrade in personal transportation. At least the writers were smart enough to stay in the BMW classic family. I hope the 2002 is still in his garage. Mark92131

They come in 1mm and 2.5mm from Ireland Engineering. You stack them until the slack is gone, but the chain deflects slightly. I think I have a couple of 1mm's left from my S14 if you need some. Mark92131

Yes, the shim(s) will correct that sloppy chain. Mark92131 IMG_3447.MOV

Yes, not the smaller, lighter weight M starters, stock OEM rebuilds. Mark92131

This will also work... Mark92131 Oil Pump Support Bracket – 2002/NK – Ireland Engineering | Racing & Performance Parts for BMW & MINI WWW.IEMOTORSPORT.COM Each Oil Pump Supporting Plate – 2002 – Ireland Engineering | Racing & Performance Parts for BMW & MINI WWW.IEMOTORSPORT.COM Each

Mark made me a custom panel for the Becker Mono radio in the Cabriolet. Construction was top shelf. I hope he gets back into the game. Mark92131

That open port above the idle mixture screw in your picture needs to be capped or connected to the advance pod on your distributor. With that much gas in the bottom of your intake, some of it may have found its way into your exhaust. Still sounds like a timing issue. Did you complete the timing check list I provided? Compression? If you have a couple of dead holes, it won't fire. Mark92131

Check out @bergie33 post in the what you did today thread on his use of Bar Keepers Friend to clean up his vent window frames. He references @mvliotta work on removing the anodized coating. It was a lot of work, but the results were awesome. Mark92131

They have been saying that about the early grill reproduction for about 2 years, ;-). Mark92131

The mounts look good, but you are missing the retaining strap on the passenger side motor mount which prevents your motor from moving forward into your radiator. Mark92131

The dimensions for the BMW 2002 Chinese radiators sold on eBay are off by quite a bit. They use standard cores which are either too skinny or too tall to fit the stock opening. I contacted one of these vendors about a custom radiator for my S14 swap, sent them the dimensions I needed and they made me one. Fit perfect, good welds, 1/2 price. Might be an option for you. Mark92131

IE has them. Mark92131

Yes, I have looked and no one sells these new. Mine are pitted and I was hoping to find a better pair to restore. I've seen some threads of people that have stripped the anodized coating and polished them up to look brand new. I also heard that people have shined them up with Bar Keeper's Friend cleanser with good results. Mark92131

I have some spare oil pump shims if you need them. Your pistons cleaned up nice! Mark92131

I spent my morning cleaning up the sins of my past. While I was under the car last month working on the 5 speed install, I decided I could just quickly attach the IE 5 speed clutch line to the clutch master at the pedal box. All well and good until the fitting cross threaded. I order a tap and die set for that fitting and tried to repair it on the car, nope, both the clutch line fitting and the clutch master would not take the die or the tap properly. Pulled the clutch slave, 2 minutes on the bench and the tap did its magic. I ordered a 1.0mm thread file to see if I could repair the threads on the clutch line fitting without removing the 5 speed slave. Should be here tomorrow, fingers crossed. Mark92131

Is the head vent routed below the pressure seal of the radiator cap? Yes, is that going to be a problem? It normally runs to the back of the head and just dumps into the reservoir? Mark92131

My car had most of the original interior removed before I acquired it. Over the years I have pieced together a "matching" set of the darker saddle interior pieces, including a "new" set of front seats with chrome recliners that @FunElan's dad removed from his brand new Tii and replaced with Recaros. Mark92131

Haven't fired it yet, I am a couple weeks out, still solving problems. Mark92131

Do those Saddle door panels have the chrome strips on the top edge? The black versions they sell on eBay appear to have the chrome top strip installed, but I can't tell from pictures that the Saddle versions have those top chrome strips. I have the same concerns with the mix and match saddle interior issues you are experiencing with my Nevada car. Mark92131

Sometimes the Bluetooth App has issues with Phone OS. Do you have someone with an Iphone in your life? Have them download the iPhone version of the 123 App and see if they can connect and read the initial stock curve to eliminate issues with your Samsung phone. If it can read the initial curve, the edit button will be enabled to allow you to change it. Mark92131