tjones02

Only found on '74-6 '02s. There's the vacuum line holder on the throttle linkage bushing on the firewall, it has a nice bracket with it too. I also snag the rare as hens teeth FOUR line holder on the anti vapor lock fuel hose bracket on #4 intake. I use both of those vacum ine holders with two of the small bracket for spark plug wire holders, the brackets from the linkage fit the valve cover nicely. Those heat shields are found on both '75 and '76 '02s with the thermal (generator) reactors, meaning all '75s and 50 state (California) '76s. Those cars generated so much more heat in the exhaust that things like idler bushings, center bearings and gasoline got baked. Not much need on a car w/o a reactor. Things us California or others that still have to smog these cars always need are Air Pump Diverter Valves, Pre-Heat hose snorkels from the reactor, working EGR relay boxes..... The list goes on.... I work on several '76 '02s that still have to pass smog here in California. Yes, it sucks!

Yeah, I'm at an independent BMW and "star" shop but I use a GT1 on a daily basis and we're looking to upgrade to an SSS system in the next year or two. :-)

I've got BMW's TIS, ETK local, ETK, HTK, KSD, EBA, EBA archive, WDS BMW, WDS MINI, ETM disks 1 & 2, and more all right here on my 160gig laptop on my toolbox at work. Soon to have a OBDII reader and maybe a scope and a five gas too! :-) HA! The EBA archive (accessories installation instructions, sorry no '02 stuff) was hard to find (e-mule) but everything else can be bought cheap on eBay. BUT! by far the best '02 parts info you can have on your computer is the FREE download from the Tii register! http://www.2002tii.org/phpmyfaq/index.php?action=artikel&cat=220447&id=62&artlang=en

That'd be me, born in '74 but rode those Sting-Rays in elementary and Jr.High. I got taunted and teased but I'm the one laughing now, I've still got em' and they're worth more than 20 times what I paid for them. HA! :-) The red one is a Sting-Ray Deluxe 3 speed in the hub and the blue one is a Fastback Deluxe withe a 5 speed with derailleur. Now I've just got to ride them some again. I may end up restoring the red one (at least get a repro seat and find some fenders for it) but the blue fastback is so nice as is un-restored that I'll just keep it as the time capsule it is. Pic from the show... http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/topic_view,threads/p,418461/t,290673/

I've owned them since I was less than 10 years old and haven't riden them for a while but I had the hankerin' to clean them up and toss them on the rack for the show. My dad and I used to ride them all over in the '80s while my friends all had BMXs. They all laughed at me, but I'm the one laughin' now because they're both worth over 500 each! I believe they're both from '70. The blue FastBack is a five speed and the red Deluxe is a three speed in the hub. Now I just need a period bike rack to go with them. :-) Schwinn Sting-Ray Fastback and Deluxe pic on my '67 1600-2 on Saturday...

Cool, I'll be waiting at Wren's at the Alamo/Merchant on/off-ramp in Vacaville around 7:30. Just pop on in the parking lot and I'll pick up the caravan from there. Or ring my cell @ five one zero - five zero four - four zero four two when you all reach 505. Anyone else that would like to join the caravan in Vacaville can join me at Wren's Cafe at the westbound 80 Alamo/Merchant onramp at 7:30.

Right ON!- that's the same way I was taught to properly set timing too. I had a Bav in a shop I worked at that had a fresh set of 38's on it that had no power and wouldn't rev above 4500 rpm. The timing was set so stock spec and the carbs weren't balanced with the "lowest ported vacuum method". Afterward it would smoke the tires on 1st gear tip in and pull past redline! There are many ways to call it, the one I use is a little more politically correct "Road Tune". Great fun!

That is, SMOKE cars w/ more than twice its horspower using an M10. Including the McLaren M8A Can-AM and Porsche 935 in pic 3! :-) Waaayy cool!

And so did the late (from 9/82 production) e21 320i. I have an e21 version in my red 1600-2, it's been there since oh around '88 or so. The main difference in the e30 version of that 240/5 trans IS the afore mentioned lack of a mechanical speedometer drive. The e30 cars use a magnetic pulse speed sensor in the diff. The only way to modify the e30 box for a mechanical speedo drive is to have a tail shaft housing and associated parts installed from an e21 version. Best done by someone expierenced in rebuilding BMW transmissions. As for installing a 240 box into an '02, it's similar to instaling a 245 gearbox as from an '80-'82 e21 320i but for dealing with the different length. I used the same 80mm measurement; straight edge across the frame rails up to the horizontal surface of the trans crossmember mounting ears as on a "normal" 232/5 or 245/5 transmission. We measured the driveshaft length after the trans. was installed. If there are any more 5spd install questions feel free to ask away....

Using a strut bending tool, or machine for bending the base of the '02 strut housing used to be done regularly at specialized and high end alignment shops and DEALERS that had the equipment. In that past, bending the struts was used to get accident victim cars back into alignment and for cheating at the racetrack where the rules in some classes don't allow the use of adjustable suspension. If the rest of the suspension is in reasonable shape then no harm done. If not then I would replace the suspect parts and go have it aligned at that same shop or another that can bend the struts to get that "perfect" alignment. Don't forget about possibly changing the rear subframe mounts, diff mount bushings AND especially the trailing arm bushings. The trailing arm bushings can wear to the point of being out of alignment. I one wants a "street" or "stock" '02 there's no harm done in having the struts bent to gain a perfect stock alignment. Furthermore, there's nothing wrong with having the struts bent to a "street happy" .5 deg. neg camber or instaling .5 deg "fixed" camber plates for better but certainly not race handling.

I just quoted my other post from the above thread.... Strut bending and alignment info..... If anyone has further questions, feel free to ask....

I know a few shops in the SF Bay Area that bend struts on a regular basis. One does racing alignments and the other will offer to if there's a need to adjust camber that's really far out of spec. A friend of mine had it done to his '02 and loved it (1.5 deg.). The "fixed" camber plates give you about .5 degree neg. while the K-Mac and racing plates will give around 2 to 2.5 deg. My friends bent struts did straighten out some over time. The metal at the base of the strut does get weakened from the bending process. When they (Alpina, Schnitzer, and the hoards of other racers out there) used to bend struts they welded reinforcement tabs between the base of the strut tube and the spindle to help strengthen that weak area and keep the bend. Back then it was a racing trick to get around the rules, today we have the technology to add camber w/o having to bend them. Keep in mind the geometry at play here. When you bend a strut on an '02 you are bending it at the bottom near the spindle causing the tire to tip in towards the strut tube, thereby loosing some tire clearance. When you add adj. camber plates you're tipping in the whole strut thereby only increasing tire to fender clearance. That's the reason I haven't had mine bent, I run 205/50-15's w/ 15x7's w/ et28 and a 1/8 (3mm) spacer in the front (= et25 in the front) and I do not have the tire to strut space to have my struts bent for neg. camber. Once I finish building up an adj. rear subframe I'll be using that and the K-Mac adj.. mounts I've been saving.

If you can stand a little bit more noise use the MTL for better cold shifting. Motor oil doesn't have the syncronizer saving additives that Redline has. My dad and I and the immortal Franz Fechner (RIP) (BMW and Porsche trans builder in the East SF Bay Area) would never recomend anything else. Every BMW, VW, Audi, Porsche shop I've worked at or know of uses and recomends either the D4-ATF, MTL, or MT-90 for all manual transmissions. Many many many times I've encountered trannys with worn crunchy syncros that have used regular GL4 gear oil, even with fresh oil and changed on regular intrvals magicly come back to life after a change to Redline! Some have not had syncros go crunchy again for many years! Redline is a local (to me) SF Bay Area company (Martinez) and I always like supporting the locals. No, I do not own Redline stock! :-) Other quality stuff I've seen is Amsoil.

That's cool, thanks.

02Les said it best, Bristol is..."Best described as....shiny Primer". It's a rare, beautiful, somber color that is strikingly timeless when compared to the rest of the wild '70s palet that most people "expect" 2002s to be painted. I took these of my mid '66 1600-2 at 2002FestWest in 2001 before a major front end accident in 2003. It's currently in indoor storage until I have the time and 4 to deal with it. So, you said that's the VIN of an engine you have, not one of your cars? How did you get MT to relese that info to you? My Granada 1600-2 1530962 has been in the family since '88 (we're the second owners) and since that time its motor's vin has been 2530962. I was 12 when I saw that and tried to point that out to Dad, he didn't believe me until he saw it for his own eyes! What I do know is that the motor is from a '69-'70 2002 automatic. I'd love to find out some more history on it!

(nt)

(nt)

Yes, you're correct in that it goes to the throttle body and then to the nipple in the block just above the upper starter bolt. It's a throttle body choke, or preheat setup to have better cold running characteristics. There's no good reason to hook it up in your application.

There are two circlips, one on each side #07 11 9 934 186 and the support plate #21 52 1 104 269 that has a tab that fits into the flywheel protection plate "Cover Plate" #21 11 0 670 050. So, the coverplate is what keeps the clutch slave from spinning round and round, not just the hose. Yes use liberal ammounts of antisieze to keep the clutch slave and he trans from becoming one piece.

I'd love to pick up the caravan as it passes through Vacaville. Maybe meet at Wrens Cafe?

1) loosen the adj. nut then with the bent rod in the ecentric tighten the nut until some resistance is felt when turning the ecentric. Having some tension on the ecentric helps hold it in place, so it doesn't flop all over. Too much/tight and you can't turn it and can't adj. it smoothly. 2) I like to leave the spark pugs in and use a remote start switch. (Gearbox in Neutral and Park Brake on! :-P ) I start with #1 exh. and #4 int. at the same time with the "on bottom of cam lobe" method by "bumping the motor over with the button. With another quick "bump" of the remote start button you're ready for #1 int. and #3 exh. and so on...... 3) I always check all valves again after turning the motor over a few times with the remote start button. Sometimes even I miss one. :-)

Have I seen it done? Yes. Do I think it's worth it on anything outside of a race car or track-rat? No. Does it look cool and get the girls? Yes. I've seen '02 and 1800Ti/SA drums drilled in a radial pattern much like a disk but a drum... I've also seen the outside drilled with larger holes, like 5-6 5/8" holes to vent the brake heat (and dust) out towards the wheel. Also seen drilled drum backing plates too. Have you exhausted ALL the machine shops in your area? Finding one that deals with vintage race cars shouldn't be hard. To seek a more experienced opinion than my own call up Korman. http://www.kormanfastbmw.com/ Also seen many old & vintage race cars out there with drilled drums front and rear.

The other one (26 11 1 106 113) is the same old 8 bolt one as your 2002 4spd. SO, 26 11 1 225 624 is the one you want. Bavarian autosport shows $34.95. Dealer list is about $60.

In my life growing up in the SF bay area with parents involved in the BMWCCA there are few US spec '02 colors I've rarely or never seen up close and personal.. Starting with the older to newer colors... Caribe 059: seen only once on a 68 1600 in a bone yard Turf 073: Never seen up close Tampico 005: once or twice Derby 056: Never seen up close Pacific 039: maybe on one or two cars in my life, easiy mistaken for Riviera. Mint Grün 079: Seen on two round lights and a few square lights. Schwartz 086 very rare on a pre mod '71, more common on mod '71 and later. Tundra 068: I've seen it on a e9 coupe but never on an '02 yet. As for the metallics, basicly anything other than Polaris and Fjord are rare on round light cars. I have not seen..... Nacht Blau: it's a e3/e9 color I've seen but never seen an '02 in it yet! Those are the really rare ones; If I haven't seen them than they MUST be rare!

"Before you accuse me, take a look at yourself"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!