Should I buy or not

[Matador]

I live in Istanbul Turkey I may buy this car tomorrow and have no experinece in 2002.

 

Seller is asking about 11k usd. Because of taxation car prices are double or triple over here so think about this as 5k car in USA.

 

Seller says it is real 2002 but there is no chrome side molding. Is there a 2002 without side moldings?

Car looks rusty yes... but what should be a deal breaker rust area ?

Should I buy it even if it is not 2002?  maybe 1802.. 

Let me know anything you see that is starange for a 2002 car

[AceAndrew]

Welcome to the FAQ.

 

The steering wheel indicates it's likely a 1974.

 

It's very hard with the photos to say definitively what condition the car is in.  It looks like there could be a fair amount of Bondo in places, so I'd bring a magnet and check any areas that seem suspect.

 

What exactly are you hoping to get, and what is your tentative goals with the car?

 

In general, here is a decent guide to use:

 

[Mark92131]

31 minutes ago, Matador said:

Seller says it is real 2002 but there is no chrome side molding

 

Possibly a 1502 which was introduced in the European market as a less expensive option (No beltline trim) in 1975.  But the 1502 had fixed front vent windows and this car has hinged vent windows, so maybe a 2002 with a beltline trim delete.  The VIN number can be decoded to determine if it is a 2002 or a 1502.  The 1502 had the same displacement as the 1602, but with lower compression pistons for more strict emission testing.

 

The rust problem areas are the rear shock towers, frame rails and rockers.  There seems so be some considerable rust on the driver's side floor board, so pulling up carpet, removing the back seat and a complete inspection of the underside is in order.

 

Good luck!

 

Mark92131

 

 

[Conserv]

We need the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). 7 digits!

 

It’s not clear why you’re buying it!

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

[Conserv]

2 hours ago, Mark92131 said:

 

Possibly a 1502 which was introduced in the European market as a less expensive option (No beltline trim) in 1975.  But the 1502 had fixed front vent windows and this car has hinged vent windows, so maybe a 2002 with a beltline trim delete.  The VIN number can be decoded to determine if it is a 2002 or a 1502.  The 1502 had the same displacement as the 1602, but with lower compression pistons for more strict emission testing…

 

I like this theory, Mark. The current color is also a new-in-1976-77 color. I believe that opening front vent wings were available as an option on 1502’s.

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

 

 

[TobyB]

Does has tach, though.

 

t

would put a wrx engine in it.

[Matador]

8 hours ago, AceAndrew said:

Welcome to the FAQ.

 

The steering wheel indicates it's likely a 1974.

 

It's very hard with the photos to say definitively what condition the car is in.  It looks like there could be a fair amount of Bondo in places, so I'd bring a magnet and check any areas that seem suspect.

 

What exactly are you hoping to get, and what is your tentative goals with the car?

 

In general, here is a decent guide to use:

 

 

Goal is fixing it up mechanicly first than get the body work done eventually. First floor and nose. Of course some areas needs attention immediatly in this car.  Restored ones are 45k-55k usd over here. I would want a drievers condition 2002 for myself but also value of the car is important.

 

It is a rare car over here does not come up for sale everyday this could be a oppotunity or may be not. To be honost I am looking at it as an asset too even if I may not be able to fix body work right away, because of hiper inflation in the coutry I keep the car as some kind of an asset.

Edited May 6 by Matador

[Matador]

5 hours ago, Conserv said:

We need the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). 7 digits!

 

It’s not clear why you’re buying it!

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

I would want to make it as a drievers car driven couple times a week but also can be parked on the street. Also I am looking at it as an asset. This is a rare car in Turkey I would want the mechanical work done first than urgent body issues, don't want to rush because there is hyper inflation right now everybody asking crazy prices for parts and labor. Dont want to loose the car if it is an opportunity.

[uai]

I wouldn't use this as a base - too bad as a starting point

[Matador]

33 minutes ago, uai said:

I wouldn't use this as a base - too bad as a starting point

You mean body work ? Belt line, nose issues ?

[Tommy]

It seems to have rust issues on hood, trunk lid and floor. That makes it likely to have them elsewhere. As a whole I don't see many (or any?) good areas in it, except that it is a complete car. -> Price sounds steep.

 

Tach and vent windows hint as "not 1502" and also the rear model badge holes are filled so probably also the belt line trim holes are.

[uai]

2 hours ago, Matador said:

You mean body work ? Belt line, nose issues ?

Yes if it has rust bubbles on the trunk lid I do not want to see the floor of it.
With that crap as a base you'll never get your invest back.
Rather pay twice for a good base and go from there

Edited May 6 by uai

[jgerock]

9 hours ago, Conserv said:

I like this theory, Mark. The current color is also a new-in-1976-77 color. I believe that opening front vent wings were available as an option on 1502’s.

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

 

 

There were options for the 1502😏

[TobyB]

It's a gamble- I can't tell from the pictures how good or how bad it is,

and without knowing what climate it's been in, it's almost impossible to predict.

If it was a runner, with half- decent compression and a working drivetrain,

from a dry climate but with a plugged sunroof drain,

5k around here would be a fair deal, especially with the non- Federal bumpers.

 

If the thing lived next to the sea its whole life, it's as bad as uai thinks it is.

 

Didya buyit?

 

t

 

[Conserv]

My best guess: 1976-77 Resedagrun 1502. Check out the photos in Steve K.’s color entry below. If it is Resedagrun, and it’s original to the car, the only ‘02 model manufactured during most of the “Resedagrun era” was… the 1502.

 

My understanding of the 1502 model, ca. 1975, was that it was designed to meet the needs of less-developed countries. The lower-compression 1.6-liter engine was created to run on the low-octane gas available in many of these countries. And, coming at the end of a 10-year production run, it was a simple, bullet-proof, and time-tested design.

 

Regards,

 

Steve