0 231 115 072 JEUR4 dist????

[ptegler]

I think this was the thin shaft (going by the pics above)

Just for the academia of it since it's a 2002 dist (and documenting this HPV-1 devise SOMEwhere since it pre-dates the internet) .....
I'll add pics of the interior of that box here.
I've had it open, even pulled off the timing wheel.  Re-assy was simply twisting the dist as normal to time with a light. The shaft end had a screw and thin washer, with the dist snug on the last step of the shaft.  Whether the shaft was milled or not for this set up, as yet I have no idea. But that is not an issue, as I have full machining resources at my disposal.

[Mark92131]

57 minutes ago, ptegler said:

since it pre-dates the internet

 

Such a cool car.  Any thoughts about upgrading your pre-internet ignition, rather than repairing something that has ultimately failed?  No disrespect intended, just curious.

 

Mark92131

[jimk]

Electromotive used VR sensors exclusively and this one probably had the chisel point version.  The signal produced is sensitive to the gap, so wobble of the toothed disc would affect the signal and can end up with ignition breakup.  I identified this setup when originally posted quite some time ago.  I've used Electromotive TEC II, TEC III, and a TEC GT, but not anymore as these system are severely dated.

[ptegler]

spot on @jimk.

Sitting in the wings is a fully configured Megasquirt II already loaded with the initial setups for this engine.
Also sitting here is a tricked out M10  ITB setup complete with ganged vacuum (for the ECU) and IAC solenoid. Custom crank trigger wheel/pulley, I even hunted down a reversed TPS so you can mount it rearward to clear the alternator.  3 sensor narrow water elbow, pressure regulator, MS 2 and harness, even a custom fuse box will all be avail soon. I 3D printed the carbon fiber nylon stacks rather than buying metal ones just for tuning.  The small blue ones are pure polycarbonate, (both good to well over  300°F)
But all this is now a no-start project as priorities/desires are moving to a new project vehicle.

[ptegler]

again...jff... this is what it looked like when I got it sept '23
west cost bay front climate under a tight 'non-breathing' tarp for two years. zoom in on all that lovely aluminum scale!

[TobyB]

Car covers are evil.

 

Quote

Electromotive TEC II

 

are evil, too.  

 

t

 

[ptegler]

Finally got it all taken apart.
    Please respond with whether I'm looking at this right (based on the pics below)

It appear the HPV-1 assy simply used a tubular spacer to center and reduce the diam of the dist inner shaft. To me it looks like the shaft was cut shorter , but I have no oem unit to compare it. The sensor simply slips down over the shaft and an Allen key tightened to the dist shaft.  

 

Can anyone measure the inner shaft diam up there underneath the weights assy?  I'm coming in at a hair under 8mm.  and does the oem stick up more than 32mm? (which is how long the broken stub is)

thanks all for putting up with this newbie.

pics.... 3260 shows the spacer and the broken end of the shaft remnant,( the fatter dist shaft might work without the spacer??)  and the last pic is what I'm assuming is the cut shorter end.
the 'flap' off the side just kept the shell from rotating. It's a flexible strip with little to no side load, just rotation stop.  ha... and in the end the only thing that kept this assembly on top the engine!

Edited April 30 by ptegler
pic caption additions

[ptegler]

regarding @'76mintgrün'02 pics above....   and just fun facts... (learned this evening)

tmy unit that snapp3ed, is like the back pic, solid diam all the way up, just a hair under 8mm diam.
But it was not from a cast iron body, rather aluminum, numbered as the title of this thread.
A dist one member here has already gotten to me, is like the front shaft. The two are the same diam, but are not swappable between bodies.  The hole through the shafts for the bottom gear pin are physically different dims.
 

['76mintgrün'02]

4 minutes ago, ptegler said:

A dist one member here has already gotten to me, is like the front shaft.

 

what is the model number on that one?

[tech71]

I would recommend you save yourself a lot of grief ,trash all that bizzare, outdated monkey motion and try running a normal 02 dizzy with Pertronix 2 and flamethrower coil.

Not  able to get to UPS yet, will send out dizzy on Mon. Promise.

Edited May 4 by tech71

[ptegler]

@tech71  don't worry about sending it.  Consider our 'exchange' thus far a 'tip' for all the other people here you've already helped as well.
This dist is already all back together and works perfectly as designed. 
Once the clip is opened, the center shaft pops right off. Two more small circlips and the advance weights and springs escape.
The timing wheel unit fit perfectly down on the new(er) dist shaft. The oem square hole (in the pic below, bottom unit)  grants access to the set screw that locks the wheel to the shaft.  Only had to drill and tap one hole for the anti-rotation flag, as one hole and screw use to hold the dist cap clip.

 

I'll have to wait til tomorrow to put it back on the car. I'll need to reset pot #1 to TDC then set up the wheel.  Scroll back, the white marks I put there...the eleventh tooth lines up when at TDC. Then the curve is dialed in on the HPV-1.

jff ... As to the Pertronix....  I'm still running a Perlux module in a '75 Triumph Spitfire (over twenty five years now in MY hands)  Perlux was the name of the company, before a group of engineers there, got together and bought the division and renamed the company Pertronix.   So this module is a minimum of 3+ decades old and still runs perfectly.  I've probably installed nearly 50 over my life time.  Love 'em.

ptegler

 

 

Edited May 5 by ptegler

[ptegler]

...doing some 'tonque in cheek' calculations here...
that trigger head weighs in at around 5 ounces.  If properly (and truly) centered, rotational weight and centering should not change (save any slop in shaft bushes etc)

Now throw back in, the spinning floating weights, top shaft that seats the rotor etc, and you actually have a variable load that changes as the shaft speed changes. The tortional loads are more in the adv. weight mechanism than on the shaft directly , but the offset swing weight change, get applied tortionally between weights end and rotor end (speed changes driven by the engine vs the lag/adv of the weights being slung out)

so what am I proposing?.... that 'trigger head' as attached, I now feel adds little to no load on the shaft that it wouldn't have seen to begin with.  That is, if the maint. personnel don't lean on it and bend the shaft again!  🙂

wish me luck. Hopefully I'll get it started later today.

[jimk]

Using the Electromotive Ignition system, the distributor is not to have any advance capability.  The Electromotive system takes care of advance.

[ptegler]

yep. Hence everything set at TDC. then simply dial in the adv you want via the HPV-1 controls.
For this M10 2L, I'm all in at 32° by 3200 rpm. Then back off 2° above 6500  (12° at idle of 825rpm)

 

Going to a full cap/wires/coil, would stick up too far and not clear the bonnet, requiring a marine installation style laid down dist mount assy.  I've only found one of those assys, but was damaged and why it wasn't in use.   So I'm (be it time, laziness, etc) left with fixing what was there and working before I started abusing it.   🙂
(just came in from firing it back up, runs fine. Timing jitter is rock solid.
Freeplay in the rebuilt dist body is gear mesh with the cam only, and is less the 1/3 of a single trigger wheel tooth spacing  (~1.2°) .
I've also learned I can directly read the D.C. volt on one of the pins on the HPV-1 box to directly read out timing advance. (~0.1VDC per 1Krpm)
Ha...could take one of my cheapy 0-1VDC  AFR meters, and have it display engine timing!

thanks all
v/r

ptegler

 

 

 

ptegler