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ptegler

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Everything posted by ptegler

  1. ptegler
    yep. Hence everything set at TDC. then simply dial in the adv you want via the HPV-1 controls. For this M10 2L, I'm all in at 32° by 3200 rpm. Then back off 2° above 6500 (12° at idle of 825rpm) Going to a full cap/wires/coil, would stick up too far and not clear the bonnet, requiring a marine installation style laid down dist mount assy. I've only found one of those assys, but was damaged and why it wasn't in use. So I'm (be it time, laziness, etc) left with fixing what was there and working before I started abusing it. 🙂 (just came in from firing it back up, runs fine. Timing jitter is rock solid. Freeplay in the rebuilt dist body is gear mesh with the cam only, and is less the 1/3 of a single trigger wheel tooth spacing (~1.2°) . I've also learned I can directly read the D.C. volt on one of the pins on the HPV-1 box to directly read out timing advance. (~0.1VDC per 1Krpm) Ha...could take one of my cheapy 0-1VDC AFR meters, and have it display engine timing! thanks all v/r ptegler ptegler
  2. ptegler
    ...doing some 'tonque in cheek' calculations here... that trigger head weighs in at around 5 ounces. If properly (and truly) centered, rotational weight and centering should not change (save any slop in shaft bushes etc) Now throw back in, the spinning floating weights, top shaft that seats the rotor etc, and you actually have a variable load that changes as the shaft speed changes. The tortional loads are more in the adv. weight mechanism than on the shaft directly , but the offset swing weight change, get applied tortionally between weights end and rotor end (speed changes driven by the engine vs the lag/adv of the weights being slung out) so what am I proposing?.... that 'trigger head' as attached, I now feel adds little to no load on the shaft that it wouldn't have seen to begin with. That is, if the maint. personnel don't lean on it and bend the shaft again! 🙂 wish me luck. Hopefully I'll get it started later today.
  3. ptegler
    @tech71 don't worry about sending it. Consider our 'exchange' thus far a 'tip' for all the other people here you've already helped as well. This dist is already all back together and works perfectly as designed. Once the clip is opened, the center shaft pops right off. Two more small circlips and the advance weights and springs escape. The timing wheel unit fit perfectly down on the new(er) dist shaft. The oem square hole (in the pic below, bottom unit) grants access to the set screw that locks the wheel to the shaft. Only had to drill and tap one hole for the anti-rotation flag, as one hole and screw use to hold the dist cap clip. I'll have to wait til tomorrow to put it back on the car. I'll need to reset pot #1 to TDC then set up the wheel. Scroll back, the white marks I put there...the eleventh tooth lines up when at TDC. Then the curve is dialed in on the HPV-1. jff ... As to the Pertronix.... I'm still running a Perlux module in a '75 Triumph Spitfire (over twenty five years now in MY hands) Perlux was the name of the company, before a group of engineers there, got together and bought the division and renamed the company Pertronix. So this module is a minimum of 3+ decades old and still runs perfectly. I've probably installed nearly 50 over my life time. Love 'em. ptegler
  4. ptegler
    regarding @'76mintgrün'02 pics above.... and just fun facts... (learned this evening) tmy unit that snapp3ed, is like the back pic, solid diam all the way up, just a hair under 8mm diam. But it was not from a cast iron body, rather aluminum, numbered as the title of this thread. A dist one member here has already gotten to me, is like the front shaft. The two are the same diam, but are not swappable between bodies. The hole through the shafts for the bottom gear pin are physically different dims.
  5. ptegler
    Is this dizzy avail! Its' the EXACT model I need to replace a broken shaft! please respond ASAP I can xfr paypal today if ammicable! ( v/r) Paul Tegler
  6. ptegler
    Finally got it all taken apart. Please respond with whether I'm looking at this right (based on the pics below) It appear the HPV-1 assy simply used a tubular spacer to center and reduce the diam of the dist inner shaft. To me it looks like the shaft was cut shorter , but I have no oem unit to compare it. The sensor simply slips down over the shaft and an Allen key tightened to the dist shaft. Can anyone measure the inner shaft diam up there underneath the weights assy? I'm coming in at a hair under 8mm. and does the oem stick up more than 32mm? (which is how long the broken stub is) thanks all for putting up with this newbie. pics.... 3260 shows the spacer and the broken end of the shaft remnant,( the fatter dist shaft might work without the spacer??) and the last pic is what I'm assuming is the cut shorter end. the 'flap' off the side just kept the shell from rotating. It's a flexible strip with little to no side load, just rotation stop. ha... and in the end the only thing that kept this assembly on top the engine!
  7. ptegler
    one Q.... down the center on top where the rotor snaps on... is there a clip down in the center, or a screw down the middle that holds the weight adv plate onto the main dist shaft. The more common 'clip' attachment system will not work for me. Could you snap a pic down that center hole showing the attachment? tia Paul tegler
  8. ptegler
    again...jff... this is what it looked like when I got it sept '23 west cost bay front climate under a tight 'non-breathing' tarp for two years. zoom in on all that lovely aluminum scale!
  9. ptegler
    spot on @jimk. Sitting in the wings is a fully configured Megasquirt II already loaded with the initial setups for this engine. Also sitting here is a tricked out M10 ITB setup complete with ganged vacuum (for the ECU) and IAC solenoid. Custom crank trigger wheel/pulley, I even hunted down a reversed TPS so you can mount it rearward to clear the alternator. 3 sensor narrow water elbow, pressure regulator, MS 2 and harness, even a custom fuse box will all be avail soon. I 3D printed the carbon fiber nylon stacks rather than buying metal ones just for tuning. The small blue ones are pure polycarbonate, (both good to well over 300°F) But all this is now a no-start project as priorities/desires are moving to a new project vehicle.
  10. ptegler
    I think this was the thin shaft (going by the pics above) Just for the academia of it since it's a 2002 dist (and documenting this HPV-1 devise SOMEwhere since it pre-dates the internet) ..... I'll add pics of the interior of that box here. I've had it open, even pulled off the timing wheel. Re-assy was simply twisting the dist as normal to time with a light. The shaft end had a screw and thin washer, with the dist snug on the last step of the shaft. Whether the shaft was milled or not for this set up, as yet I have no idea. But that is not an issue, as I have full machining resources at my disposal.
  11. ptegler
    Interesting trigger wheel design to boot. The 2.5" or so disk actually has TWO sets of missing teeth. Literally x2, 36-1, each encompassing 180° of the wheel. Makes sense, as it's half speed to the crank.
  12. ptegler
    dist body is in good shape, as too do the bushes and bearing seem fine. That 'top hat' wheel assy does indeed run on the end of the inner shaft. The toothed wheel just fits down over the last step on the end of the shaft and uses the original counter weight/rotor pedestal assy screw, to retain it. The base of the 'top had' has two bearings that fit that center shaft of the dist. That 'hat' assy always wobbled a bit, which leads me to believe the inner shaft (above the points plate) was bend by the p.o. Swinging the 'off-center' weight, well more so constantly tilting the 'hat' as the shaft rotated, was probably enough stress to snap the shaft. ....i'll go snap a pic of the end...but don't want to disassemble anything yet... want parts in hand, and need to look at the sync of the wheel position and how its timed to the crank before I go messing with it further (try to dig up old HPV-1 instructions) Although the bottom looks rusty, the bush/shaft there is clean, as well as is the break, probably right at the stress riser of the milling step to that smaller center shaft OD. v/r ptegler IMG_3250.MOV
  13. ptegler
    sorry..double post... deleted here
  14. ptegler
    Just like a Pertronix module removing the points gap variations due to shaft/bearing slop, this HPV-1 setup captures the multi-tooth trigger wheel and sensor position variations by housing the sensor in a case, relatively positioned to the trigger wheel by the bearing in the box the shaft passes through. Shaft as dist body bearing play, moves both sensor and wheel together (box is free to 'float' and does not rotate)
  15. ptegler
    👍
  16. ptegler
    this is the beast needing the dizzy rebuild. In the 'top down pic' note the dizzy gold disk on top. That's an encased trigger wheel riding on the center shaft of the dizzy with no rotor mech adv weight plate atop the center shaft. The 'box' floats on a bearing on that center shaft, with a flex plate to keep the box from rotating. ..weird setup... part of the old electromotive HPV-1 and coil pack you can see just behind the dist on the shelf. A sensor enters the protruding edge, so is fixed to the rotating disk by the housing bearing. So dist slop isn't really an issue for trigger accuracy (I guess -1 wierd point subtraction is in order ) hmmm... old fart here.... how do I 'dm' here?
  17. ptegler
    VERY bizarre .... had a dist center shaft snap/break right at the points plate! Anyone have a spare old dist for a 2L M10 2L? The dist does not have to be in working order. Specific distributor model is not important as the adv and vac are not used. This setup is using and old Electromotive HPV-1 electronic ignition conversion. I just need a decent center shaft so I can rebuild this dist. HELP! ptegler
  18. ptegler
    not sure which clutch assy went with which flywheel... 215mm vs 228mm nor know which might have been spring or finger style. I only know the first pic above shows my slave cyl correctly, but shows a TOB different from what I have. ptegler
  19. ptegler
    ok.. played laparoscopic surgeon this evening.... some welding wire and long screw drivers.... snake cam pics and internet search pics in hand (earlier pics in this thread) I realized how it 'should' have been assembled. My fault (butt head move...) The 'wire clip' ends had slipped off the end of the shift fork, when the whole fork had been moved around while rebuilding the slave cyl and etc. I finally noticed the wire was not in the 'groove' around the bearing carrier. I pulled the slave and push rod out, but still could not replace the fork correctly with the tips under the wire clip ends. A drink, dinner, and another drink..... I busted out a high quality 1" circular hole saw, (had to shorten the center drill bit to be safe) and drilled a damn hole right through the tranny bell housing as an inspection hole, mirrored opposite the fork pass through. (EG: as viewed from front... fork on the right at 4 o'clock, new hole at 8 o'clock. I sweated bullets thinking I'd hit the gear case, or clutch assy. But follow the ribs, it's safe. (and why I used a super short center bit) So..... with a long screw driver, I can now fully remove the clutch shift fork, and re-install it (clip ends in the right position) very simply. A rubber hole plug wedged in properly to boot to seal it back up. Why would I want to? I WOULDN"T he he I'm just left with a fancy fix route, for being bold enough to drill an extra hole. flame suite on. jfft
  20. ptegler
    engine vin decodes to....
  21. ptegler
    what's up here? using the manuals from library here... the cross-section drawing shows the wrong throw out bearing for what I have in my 2002. Mine is as circled on the right i nthe pic below. Anyone have a proper drawing / cross section of the '68 4 speed clutch assy? .. that shows the other style TOB? And what manual has/had the proper drawing(s)? This is the '68 M10 2L bored 60 over, using a '69 2002 ti head and a 4 speed, as it was installed in a 1993 Rotus from the manufacture. Last pic was a mfr pic sent to the waiting buyer while it was still being built. notice it had full smog and the single barrel solex. funky air filter to clear the bonnet
  22. ptegler
    ?? stepping back...this is a hydraulic not mech clutch linkage... maybe I'm misunderstadning you comment
  23. ptegler
    hmmm.... clearing some cob webs...might be zero'ing in on my issue..... I haven't pulled the engine/tranny interface apart (yet?) but when mucking about... I did manage to have the throw out bearing arm slip off the pin when playing with the new slave cyl from underneath. I thought i had it back in right or I'd hear all kinds of ruckus right? It does shift fine normally, it's just when the engine is spinning and the tranny output is not, you run into speed differences trying to go into gear (hench the crunch). Having the clutch too tight would not create drag, rather limit it as needed (clutch would slip)
  24. ptegler
    4 speed...looking for a decent 5 (o/d) but not there yet. 🙂
  25. ptegler
    my first machined 4" wheel ...new ones coming are smaller od.
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