yep. Hence everything set at TDC. then simply dial in the adv you want via the HPV-1 controls.
For this M10 2L, I'm all in at 32° by 3200 rpm. Then back off 2° above 6500 (12° at idle of 825rpm)
Going to a full cap/wires/coil, would stick up too far and not clear the bonnet, requiring a marine installation style laid down dist mount assy. I've only found one of those assys, but was damaged and why it wasn't in use. So I'm (be it time, laziness, etc) left with fixing what was there and working before I started abusing it. 🙂
(just came in from firing it back up, runs fine. Timing jitter is rock solid.
Freeplay in the rebuilt dist body is gear mesh with the cam only, and is less the 1/3 of a single trigger wheel tooth spacing (~1.2°) .
I've also learned I can directly read the D.C. volt on one of the pins on the HPV-1 box to directly read out timing advance. (~0.1VDC per 1Krpm)
Ha...could take one of my cheapy 0-1VDC AFR meters, and have it display engine timing!
ok.. played laparoscopic surgeon this evening.... some welding wire and long screw drivers.... snake cam pics and internet search pics in hand (earlier pics in this thread)
I realized how it 'should' have been assembled.
My fault (butt head move...)
The 'wire clip' ends had slipped off the end of the shift fork, when the whole fork had been moved around while rebuilding the slave cyl and etc. I finally noticed the wire was not in the 'groove' around the bearing carrier. I pulled the slave and push rod out, but still could not replace the fork correctly with the tips under the wire clip ends.
A drink, dinner, and another drink.....
I busted out a high quality 1" circular hole saw, (had to shorten the center drill bit to be safe) and drilled a damn hole right through the tranny bell housing as an inspection hole, mirrored opposite the fork pass through. (EG: as viewed from front... fork on the right at 4 o'clock, new hole at 8 o'clock.
I sweated bullets thinking I'd hit the gear case, or clutch assy. But follow the ribs, it's safe. (and why I used a super short center bit)
So..... with a long screw driver, I can now fully remove the clutch shift fork, and re-install it (clip ends in the right position) very simply. A rubber hole plug wedged in properly to boot to seal it back up. Why would I want to? I WOULDN"T he he
I'm just left with a fancy fix route, for being bold enough to drill an extra hole.
flame suite on. jfft
ptegler's post in 0 231 115 072 JEUR4 dist???? was marked as the answer