clutch throw out bearing versions and springs

[ptegler]

what's up here? using the manuals from library here...  the cross-section drawing shows the wrong throw out bearing for what I have in my 2002.    Mine is as circled on the right i nthe pic below. 
Anyone have a proper drawing / cross section of the '68 4 speed clutch assy?  .. that shows the other style TOB? And what manual has/had the proper drawing(s)?  This is the '68 M10 2L bored 60 over, using a '69 2002 ti head and a 4 speed, as it was installed in a 1993 Rotus from the manufacture. Last pic was a mfr pic sent to the waiting buyer while it was still being built. notice it had full smog and the single barrel solex.  funky air filter to clear the bonnet

 

[dlacey]

I know that the tii TOB is physically longer than the standard carb car bearing (the tii bearing is the one hilited in your pic).

i guess thats because the 228mm clutch has different diaphragm spring geometry to the 215mm clutch?

[ptegler]

engine vin decodes to....

[ptegler]

ok.. played laparoscopic surgeon this evening.... some welding wire and long screw drivers....  snake cam pics and internet search pics in hand (earlier pics in this thread)
I realized how it 'should' have been assembled.
My fault  (butt head move...)

      The 'wire clip' ends had slipped off the end of the shift fork, when the whole fork had been moved around while rebuilding the slave cyl and etc. I finally noticed the wire was not in the 'groove' around the bearing carrier.  I pulled the slave and push rod out, but still could not replace the fork correctly with the tips under the wire clip ends.
    A drink, dinner, and another drink.....
   I busted out a high quality 1" circular hole saw, (had to shorten the center drill bit to be safe) and drilled a damn hole right through the tranny bell housing as an inspection hole, mirrored opposite the fork pass through. (EG: as viewed from front... fork on the right at 4 o'clock, new hole at 8 o'clock.
    I sweated bullets thinking I'd hit the gear case, or clutch assy. But follow the ribs, it's safe. (and why I used a super short center bit)
    So..... with a long screw driver, I can now fully remove the clutch shift fork, and re-install it (clip ends in the right position) very simply.  A rubber hole plug wedged in properly to boot to seal it back up.   Why would I want to?  I WOULDN"T  he he
I'm just left with a fancy fix route, for being bold enough to drill an extra hole.
flame suite on.  jfft

   

 

Edited March 29 by ptegler

[Mike Self]

US spec 2002s up to VIN 1665200 used a completely different pressure plate and throwout bearing (but the same disk) as later cars.  Those early cars have a coil spring pressure plate (vs the diaphragm pressure plate on later cars); the throwout bearing only works with that pressure plate.  Those early cars have 6 bolt flywheels that are drilled differently so you can't use a later pressure plate without changing both the flywheel and crankshaft.  And--there's an adjustment for the clutch linkage down by the throwout lever--probably a carryover from the mechanical linkage on 1600s.  That adjustment isn't shown in the owners manual.  I discovered it on my Feb 69 car when i was under there looking at something else; it was assembled 400 cars before the switch to the later style flywheel and pressure plate.   

 

mike

[ptegler]

not sure which clutch assy went with which flywheel... 215mm vs 228mm nor know which might have been spring or finger style.   I only know the first pic above shows my slave cyl correctly, but shows a TOB different from what I have.
 

ptegler

Edited March 30 by ptegler