Replacing Emergency Break Cables

[Frank-76]

Hi,

Is there any good tricks or shortcuts when replacing the emergency break cables on a 76 2002? Do I really have to pull the rear half axil's?

 

Thanks

Frank

[John76]

2 minutes ago, Frank-76 said:

Do I really have to pull the rear half axil's?

Frank,

No need to pull the hubs or axels.

Disconnect the cables in the cabin and pull out at the rear brakes.

John

PS. The brake cables on my '76 were crossed (during production) and almost worn through.

 

[Mike Self]

9 minutes ago, Frank-76 said:

Do I really have to pull the rear half axles?

Nope--pretty straightforward job--usually the most difficult part is getting the old cables out of the guide tubes under the car at the forward end--and working the new cables--with their threaded adjusters--around the sheaves on the brake handle--you'll probably have to remove the handle to install 'em.   And that's a treat!

 

Plenty of how-to's in the archives--check 'em out.

 

mike

[stephers]

I add heat shrink tubing around the area where the cables go into the tubes under the car    stops rust/corrosion from building up in there, making it very difficult to get them out sometimes

 

Thanks, Rick

[2002iii]

You can tie string to the old ones so when you pull them out you can use the string to pull the new ones in.

[zambo]

2 hours ago, Mike Self said:

Nope--pretty straightforward job--usually the most difficult part is getting the old cables out of the guide tubes under the car at the forward end--and working the new cables--with their threaded adjusters--around the sheaves on the brake handle--you'll probably have to remove the handle to install 'em.   And that's a treat!

 

Plenty of how-to's in the archives--check 'em out.

 

mike

If you remove the handle to install the cables, it’s an excellent opportunity to upgrade your pivot bolt on the base of the handle with the roller bearing and washer approach.

 

It's a simple upgrade if you’re taking the handbrake handle out and makes the handbrake action better than new IMHO. 

 

Pretty sure it’s covered here on FAQ if you’re interested. 

[Frank-76]

Thanks Everyone for all the good advice! I,m feeling very confident that with the guidance above I will be successful. 

Frank

[NYNick]

2 hours ago, Frank-76 said:

Thanks Everyone for all the good advice! I,m feeling very confident that with the guidance above I will be successful. 

Frank

Ah, the naivete' of youth. 

 

One of mine was stuck, I mean really stuck. So stuck, in fact, that I hooked it up to my ATV winch and tried to pull it out that way. No luck. This was one of the stupidest moves I ever made.

 

The stuck cable never budged and me and my winch literally pulled the CAR OFF THE JACK STANDS!...almost hitting my Porsche 911 right next to it. Not only dangerous, but really, really stooooopid.

 

I ended up measuring a new one against how much cable had already come out of the guide tubes and then held a torch to the underside of the tube hoping it would melt the rubber coating that had assumably bunched up inside. This WORKED!

 

What a bitch of a job. Right up there with the frozen drum brake adjusters!

[Frank-76]

Lol.... Thx for the heads up! I will start spraying with pentrating oil a few weeks before attempting. I will have the wife hide my 4 wheeler keys before I start.  😎

 

Frank

[BLUNT]

18 hours ago, stephers said:

I add heat shrink tubing around the area where the cables go into the tubes under the car    stops rust/corrosion from building up in there, making it very difficult to get them out sometimes

 

Thanks, Rick

Thats a great idea

 

[Mike Self]

4 hours ago, NYNick said:

The stuck cable never budged and me and my winch literally pulled the CAR OFF THE JACK STANDS!.

Lesson learned:  you're supposed to pull on a car up on jack stands (with the jack still in place!) before starting to work on it, just to make sure it isn't wobbly.  Never, ever pull on it once it's off its wheels--especially with a winch!

 

My cables were also stuck; I connected a 4 ton come-along to the end of the brake cable--with a thimble and clamp, and fastened it to a sturdy steel fence post set in concrete (car's wheels on the ground).  I actually dragged the car backwards (in gear) about 8 inches before the cable snapped.  

 

The problem is the plastic sheath that protects the cable gets brittle with age, and when you try to extract it, it bunches up inside the guide tube.  Heating it like you did is the best choice of solutions...

 

mike