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H&R suspension kit question


rjd2

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Hi folks-wanting to confirm, as I don't see any instructions in the kit: the shorter springs go in the front, correct? Would love to know for sure before installing. It appears that no compression of the spring is required; I did a test fit this morning of the fronts, and it all seemed to go together easily with a ton of "slack". It made me question which springs go where.  Thanks for the help!

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I used the stock 3 dot pads for the upper rear with an Eibach progressive spring kit.  Lower and fronts may only be one size.  I was sent a full box instead of 2 that I ordered and have 4 left over.  These are listed in the Parts FS ads.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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Front pads are simply thin rubber fitted-sheets between springs and caps/seats.  (The bottoms wear out faster due to dirt). 

 

H&R springs tend to make the car sit low in the rear, compared to the front, so the thicker 3 dot pads might be required to have it sit level, when measured at the rocker panel.  It actually wants to be slightly higher in the rear.  (I added homemade spacers on top of the 3 dot pads, to raise the rear a little higher yet).

 

My front springs are loose when it is jacked up, with the suspension dangling.  That's why some people like to drill the cap and wire the spring in place.  I haven't bothered to do that.  I just make sure things are lined up before setting it back down.

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So long as you have those front springs out...a small suggestion:

 

After you've cleaned all the dirt and rust out of the lower spring cup on the strut, enlarge the drain hole, moving the opening towards the bottom of the cup  so that (1) water and dirt can drain all the way to the bottom and (2) at least small rocks will pass through the hole and not block it.

 

mike

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I bought the shocks/springs as a kit. The shock inserts are Bilstein, IIRC. The springs are labeled "...R" and "...F", so I am assuming the F is front. 

 

I now have them assembled on the front subframe, and the springs are completely loose. there's probably 2 inches of play. I will need to manually align the springs when I seat them, for sure.

 

I am doing this with the car on jack stands. I think I saw someone mention that laying the motor on its side to get it under the car? Does this sound like a sensible order of operations? 1) lay engine on a low dolly, on its side. slide under car, then pull up with engine hoist. 2) slide front subframe under car on low dolly, then jack up and install mounting bolts. 3) drop engine down on subframe? 

 

The alternative obviously being to jack up the car high enough to slide the entire assembly under it, and drop the car down, but that seems like I'd need to get the car pretty high up. I have floor jacks and a big ol' 6x6 that I have used to rest cars on, but it seems like it would be its own brand of precariousness to do it this way....

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14 minutes ago, rjd2 said:

I am doing this with the car on jack stands. I think I saw someone mention that laying the motor on its side to get it under the car? Does this sound like a sensible order of operations? 1) lay engine on a low dolly, on its side. slide under car, then pull up with engine hoist. 2) slide front subframe under car on low dolly, then jack up and install mounting bolts. 3) drop engine down on subframe? 

That works.  Step 2, the engine can be set down onto the subframe and mounts connected, then pull up engine with subframe attached.  I've used this sequence a couple of times.

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A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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2 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

The play I mentioned above is more like 1/4".

hmmmm. were your fronts shorter than your rears? yea it definitely feels very loose. i gather there will be some lowering, but considering that I needed the compressors to get the originals off, these feels strange.

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I have slide the entire engine and subframe into the car from underneath. I had to jack the car up super high and it was pretty sketchy, however once under everything lowered and lined up easily and whole process took less than an hour.

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I use ether the engine hoist or a come-along over a rafter to lift the front by the strut mounting holes and slid the engine and cross member under in one piece a creeper with a piece of plywood on it works well for a dolly. I can remember the last time I had help removing or installing a engine.

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