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Valve guide replacement


DrA76

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1. You are trying to replace valve guide seals

2. You have the new style seals and the old style guides

I don't know about availability of old style seals. Someone else may help with that one.

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There is/was a cutter would reduce the valve guide tops in place to fit the new style seals, these are a  much better design and IMO would be worth trying to find a machine shop to cut yours where are you located? 

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+ 1 on Son of Marty's comment above.  The factory redesigned the seals (and their accompanying guides) when preparing the M10 for use in the E30, and the new style seal is way superior...gone is the engine's propensity to suck oil down the guides on the overrun (AKA mosquito fogging).  If you're going to the trouble of reworking the head (and even more if you're doing the whole engine), spend a few extra $$ and convert to the later seals and either have the guides reworked or replace 'em.  Money well spent if you're gonna keep the car.

 

mike 

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Agree , since I am rebuilding the engine . I think it's wise to update the guides.

Should I get 2nd or 3rd replacement?

The seals that I have  are 14,2 outer diameter.

The 2nd replacement guides are 14,15 while 3rd 14,25. Should I go +5 or -5 .

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52 minutes ago, DrA76 said:

Agree , since I am rebuilding the engine . I think it's wise to update the guides.

Should I get 2nd or 3rd replacement?

The seals that I have  are 14,2 outer diameter.

The 2nd replacement guides are 14,15 while 3rd 14,25. Should I go +5 or -5 .

Are you mixing seals and guides ? I don't get it - guides are available in oversizes seals shouldn't (except you're using oversize valves which was practice in the 50's).
Unless the old guides are out you usually cannot tell which ones you need.
Replacing guides is not a DIY job unless you have a very well equipped machine shop and liquid nitrogen .... (or dry ice and an oven)

So let the company that replaces the guide buy the guides.
Here some guys take guides from Mercedes 190 engines others have other preferences.

The process is drilling out the old guide so only a 0.2 mm wall thickness remains - then press it out.

Measure the holes (0.002mm accuracy) then decide which guides you need.

Then either make the holes fit the guide or make the guides fit the hole. Modify guides as needed (taper etc)

Then freeze the guides (and/or/or not heat the head) mount the guides.
Machine your valveseats ...

 

So let that do the machine shop
 

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Quote

Unless the old guides are out you usually cannot tell which ones you need.


Replacing guides is not a DIY job unless you have an air chisel, a stem reaming setup and a valve seat grinder .... (or figs and mice)

 

t

mostly poking fun- ugga dugga dugga

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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