Radiator Options (again, yes I search old threads first)

[M5280RCR]

21 hours ago, TobyB said:

 

That was going to be my suggestion, as it sounds like your radiator is underfunctioning.

 

But those have gotten hard to find- call Blunt for the heavy duty 2002 radiator.  It oughta do it.

 

If it doesn't, see if you can resolve your lean condition...

 

t

retarded his timing, too

 

Thanks Toby,

 

You don't happen to know my friends John and Wendy who live in Carnation and have a nursery around there?

 

Dave

[M5280RCR]

8 hours ago, Healey3000 said:

Hi,

 

I use the WN high-flow radiator and it is excellent.  I'm in the Bay Area as well so you are welcome to come by and take a look at it to judge the fit, aesthetics, etc.

 

I'll stay six feet away from you while you look ?

 

Healey,

 

I am in San Carlos and would be interested in taking you up on your offer, what part of the Bay are you in (I am glad to come to you, mask in hand...or mouth rather)?

 

Dave

[man_mark_7]

I bought the WN tropical radiator (or whatever it's called) because I didn't like the way the aluminum(?) and plastic 320i radiator fit and required drilling new holes in the radiator mount. I started to install it and was absolutely shocked at the weight difference. I think the WN was at least 15 pounds heavier. With Colin Chapman's mantra "simplify, then add lightness" in mind I sold the WN and stuck with the 320i.

 

mm

[Healey3000]

50 minutes ago, M5280RCR said:

 

Healey,

 

I am in San Carlos and would be interested in taking you up on your offer, what part of the Bay are you in (I am glad to come to you, mask in hand...or mouth rather)?

 

Dave

I'm in Fremont, so not too far.  Please PM me and we'll set something up!

[Stevenc22]

Buy a fresh radiator from WN, do an engine flush and life will be good. I have a recored 2 core radiator and my car never sees above half way on the temp gauge in Texas 100+ weather.

 

The standard radiator from WN is currently on sale for $148. Cannot beat that. 

 

When doing the engine flush, pull the engine coolant drain plug located on the side of the engine. When i pulled the plug on my original engine, there was a ton of calcium build up around the drain plug which tells you the entire engine probably has calcium build up, so time for a chemical flush through the block to remove the build up.

['76mintgrün'02]

If you are going to drain the block, this is an easy way to catch the mess.  

 

[M5280RCR]

On 8/5/2020 at 7:19 AM, Stevenc22 said:

Buy a fresh radiator from WN, do an engine flush and life will be good. I have a recored 2 core radiator and my car never sees above half way on the temp gauge in Texas 100+ weather.

 

The standard radiator from WN is currently on sale for $148. Cannot beat that. 

 

When doing the engine flush, pull the engine coolant drain plug located on the side of the engine. When i pulled the plug on my original engine, there was a ton of calcium build up around the drain plug which tells you the entire engine probably has calcium build up, so time for a chemical flush through the block to remove the build up.

 

Steven,

 

For $150, plus shipping and loosening a few bolts, this seems a bit easier than some of the other idea.  I think bringing it to a radiator shop for an assessment in the Bay Area would cost more than that alone.  Thanks for the suggestion.

 

Dave

 

PS.  regarding the engine flush, is that a DIY project, or better left to a professional.  If DIY, any tips on what to flush it with?

[Buckeye]

7 hours ago, M5280RCR said:

regarding the engine flush, is that a DIY project, or better left to a professional.  If DIY, any tips on what to flush it with?

 

This 

https://evapo-rust.com/thermocure/

and this

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/BMW_2002/08-WATER-Coolant_Flush_and_Replacement/08-WATER-Coolant_Flush_and_Replacement.htm

[Stevenc22]

Its a DIY. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AS105-Radiator-Flush-Cleaner/dp/B07L9JNHWM/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=coolant+flush&qid=1596800830&sr=8-5

 

Pour this in the old radiator, drive it for a few hours, then pull the radiator coolant hoses off, drain the system. Use a garden hose to flush clean water through the engine block. Then put in the new radiator and top up with coolant.

 

Also when the engine is drained, pull the engine drain bolt and see what the inside of the engine looks like. If still heavily calcified, consider flushing some marine descaler through the engine block.

[thinksound_mike]

2 hours ago, Stevenc22 said:

Its a DIY. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AS105-Radiator-Flush-Cleaner/dp/B07L9JNHWM/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=coolant+flush&qid=1596800830&sr=8-5

 

Pour this in the old radiator, drive it for a few hours, then pull the radiator coolant hoses off, drain the system. Use a garden hose to flush clean water through the engine block. Then put in the new radiator and top up with coolant.

 

Also when the engine is drained, pull the engine drain bolt and see what the inside of the engine looks like. If still heavily calcified, consider flushing some marine descaler through the engine block.

make sure the engine has a chance to cool a bit before pulling it apart after that drive

[thinksound_mike]

My car ran warm in NYC traffic when I got it. I flushed my block with a hose but didn't use an engine flush (didn't know about it). I got a decent amount of crud out and the drain plug wasn't very clogged. I put in a 320 radiator and a new thermostat and it's steady at 3'0 clock. This was before W&N had the high-cooling radiator. If doing it again, I would just go with that radiator because of the stock fit and no fiddling with the lower radiator hose.

 

 

['76mintgrün'02]

I waited a long time to change my coolant and was quite relieved to find it looking as good as it did when I drained it.  I was also happy that it looked clean behind the drain plug on the side of the block, since I'd read of people having to break through crud behind the plug, to get theirs to drain... and assumed the worst.

 

I did not bother with any fancy chemical flushes, since I did not want to deal with the mess.  I'd only do that if you see evidence of crud built up in the system... but maybe it has a bit to do with laziness.

 

I used BMW blue coolant when I filled it up and learned that it leaves light blue chalkiness wherever it's splashed and dried.  That is a handy feature, when trying to pinpoint leaks.

 

I had taken a hose clamp off of an old hose and flipped it over, so the mechanism was on the underside (where it belongs!) and the hose did not appreciate the change and leaked under pressure.  Permatex Aviation sealant works well on hose nipples (says so on the label) and that eliminated the leak.

Tom

[Stevenc22]

50% of shipping right now at WN so radiator is $175 shipped.

[02Les]

W & N Radiators on discount currently.

 

https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/newsletter/kuehler-im-angebot/bmw-1502-2002-turbo.html

 

[Vicleonardo1]

For me, the high capacity is worth the $125 premium. I paid it because of my PTSD  after having a car with overheating issues in the past and left me stranded in a very hot and  remote locale.

I bought the high cap radiator before realizing that I would experience AC plumbing issues. With the cost of shipping it back in mind I parked it in my "you are an idiot" parts bin. 

I currently have an IE aluminum radiator that I haven't run to full hot summer AC test on yet. but my concern is that I am now dependent on one electric fan to cool the radiator and my AC condenser.  The standard mechanical fan does not fit....I will see how that holds up after my new AC is installed and do some hot summer driving. 

 

I think Conserv's remedy is awesome. If my IE radiator and one fan isn't up to snuff, I will swap out the bottom of a late model radiator with the high efficiency radiator and go from there. 

 

One other thing. some have had mixed results, if there is a creep up with your engine temp after flush and fresh install, some have had a bit of improvement in cooling with adding Redline "Water Wetter" to your fluid. 

 

Cheers!