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How to glue door rubber seals


Cromagnon

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Hi everybody.The rubber seals on my front doors are constanlty peeling off. I tried several glues but to no avail. I read something about a polyurethane glue, such as Sika 221, and also that the correct glue is the one used to paste the windshield. This last glue is not available in my country. Sika supplies it only to registered professionals. 

Can anyone give me help on what kind of glue can I use to fix it once and forever?

Thanks in advance for your cooperation!

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I read about this adhesive on the Porsche site for gluing door seals    same sort of issues     have not tried it yet but the fellow that recommended it knows what he is talking about    I am going to order some and try it out     Apparently they use this quite a bit in the aircraft industry FWIW 

 

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DO NOT USE the black 3M adhesive! (unless maybe your car has black paint as well) this will be very difficult to clean up and almost always leaves a visually uneven line of glue at the edge where the rubber and paint meet. once it hardens it will be almost impossible to remove/clean. We use a DAP landau top cement. (an industrial contact cement) it's yellow/tan in color and cleans up easy with cosmoline remover. clean the metal/paint area well with mild solvent, clean the new or used rubber with mild solvent, let dry. then coat with a thin film on both the jamb AND the rubber. let dry till slightly tacky. press together. done. good luck!

 

 

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We recently had nearly the opposite problem install door weatherstripping--it was an absolute bitch to force into its slot, especially across the top and down the trailing edge of the door glass.  It was such a tight fit we had to use silicone grease and a big screwdriver to force those two sections in place.  No glue necessary and we would have had to work hard to pull it out.

 

The gasket that fell below the window sill line was easily glued in place with plain ole Weldwood contact cement (AKA gorilla snot).

 

mike  

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'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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Hi folks. First of all thanks a lot to all of you for your help. 

What I have done until now was a deep and thorough clean of the surfaces, both metal and rubber, to whipe out all kind of residues and ending it with a strong degreaser, in order to have the surfaces ready for the glue. The one that I used was  a contact adhesive locally known under the brand Novopren, recomended by the seller, but to no avail. At first it seems good but after several days it beguins to get loose, specially at window glass level. Not to say that it is driving me out of my mind...!!

The repair manuals that I have have no mention to the kind of adhesive needed to do this. 

I'll do a little research on what is available in Uruguay because this kind of products can't be loaded in cargo planes, it must travel by marine load.

If anything new arises, I will be thankful.

Have a great day!!!

 

Santiago

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  • 1 month later...

After all this time it turned out that BarneyT comment was totally accurate. The proof was that some rubber pads made of the same kind of material and glued to some flower pots went loose after a month. And, this is the important thing, the glue completely peeled off from the surface of the rubber, leaving a clean and shiny surface. The cement in the pot was held firmly in place. 

This is exactly what happens with the car. Then, I will scrubb the surface with a sand paper and try some 3M cement, and see what happens.

BTW, I tried to contact 3M customer support at Mineapolis to no avail, nor the cell phone of a local 3M tech specialist. Never answered the line.

Superb customer supportl!!!

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The question is, which type of 3M product will you use? Or will you go to a different brand of contact cement? So many to choose from, and not everyone agrees. Will you use Dremel tool, or hand sand? Which grit? Let us know what happens. I will be dealing with this at some point.

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The paint shop that installed the brand new URO seals when they painted our '75 used some kind of black mastic or glue that is letting go of the rubber, but has hardened on the new paint in the door jambs and trunk rim.  Perhaps the URO seals are leaking some kind of plasticiser, or had a mold release compound to which the glue didn't stick?

 

Anyway, the seals are literally flopping around in the doors jambs, and I want to clean off the glue and start over.  Any suggestions on a glue solvent that won't destroy the paint?  Unless there are other suggestions, I'm going to use WD-40 as a first try.

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1 hour ago, Clevis Woodruff said:

The paint shop that installed the brand new URO seals when they painted our '75 used some kind of black mastic or glue that is letting go of the rubber, but has hardened on the new paint in the door jambs and trunk rim.  Perhaps the URO seals are leaking some kind of plasticiser, or had a mold release compound to which the glue didn't stick?

 

Anyway, the seals are literally flopping around in the doors jambs, and I want to clean off the glue and start over.  Any suggestions on a glue solvent that won't destroy the paint?  Unless there are other suggestions, I'm going to use WD-40 as a first try.

 

3M Adhesive Remover? The AUTO/Advanced kind, not the General kind

 

Edited by golf73
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Search is your friend.

EPDM Is a beach to bond. As Barney did, light abrading helps remove the mold release, correct adhesive also helps.

 

Don

 

Don

1973 Sahara # too long ago, purchased in 1978 sold in 1984

1973 Chamonix # 2589243 Katrina Victim, formerly in the good sawzall hands of Baikal.2002 and gone to heaven.

1973 Inka # 2587591 purchased from Mike McCurdy, Dec 2007

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