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Steering drag link really rubbing hard on Getrag 240


BarrettN

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My 74 tii was20190212_181939.thumb.jpg.16a3d61210d48b29a313e30a5478610f.jpg someone's unfinished non-running project - the current item I'm working on fixing is getting the steering drag link not to rub on the transmission. It's rubbing pretty hard, it's not just a light scuff. 

I've read other posts that point to the transmission mount. My car was evidently in mid-swap with a getrag 240. The transmission mount looks good, but I have no idea if the PO fabricated the bracket himself and maybe it's just too low, or if it's something else. From what I see it looks like it's using the factory transmission mounting brackets. Maybe this pic of the shifter might help identify if this is part of a kit or his own work. Does anyone who has a Getrag 240 and used a kit, did it come with any measurements that might help me know if this is scraping due to the transmission mount, or if there's another cause?

 

Is there something else I can take a picture of that might make it clearer what's off? 

 

Thanks, 

 

Barrett 

20190212_181921.jpg

Koboldtopf - '67 1600-2

Einhorn - '74 tii

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Is it a 240 5- speed or a 245 5- speed?

 

The rear mount LOOKS ok- straight across, like it should be.  And an E21 mount.

If you have a 245, it should be hign enough in the tunnel that it is almost

hitting.  I'm not sure about the 240, but I'd expect the same.

 

Like Hal, I'd next check the engine mounts, and see how much the oil pan

clears the subframe.  From memory, you should be able to get your hand,

flat, between the pan and the subframe.

 

Pictures are HARD under there- try pulling the trans support (there's very little weight 

on it, so a jackstand wedged under the trans is plenty) and getting pics of the mounts on the

body itself.  Then engine mount pics...

You're only missing 1/2" clearance at most- that's one of the tighter spots on a 2002.

 

hth

 

t

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"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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17 minutes ago, TobyB said:

Is it a 240 5- speed or a 245 5- speed?

 

The rear mount LOOKS ok- straight across, like it should be.  And an E21 mount.

If you have a 245, it should be hign enough in the tunnel that it is almost

hitting.  I'm not sure about the 240, but I'd expect the same.

 

Like Hal, I'd next check the engine mounts, and see how much the oil pan

clears the subframe.  From memory, you should be able to get your hand,

flat, between the pan and the subframe.

 

Pictures are HARD under there- try pulling the trans support (there's very little weight 

on it, so a jackstand wedged under the trans is plenty) and getting pics of the mounts on the

body itself.  Then engine mount pics...

You're only missing 1/2" clearance at most- that's one of the tighter spots on a 2002.

 

hth

 

t

Based on the numbers 240-0-0266-90-225 on the end of the transmission, together with matching it up to pictures online, based on that I think it's a 240.

 

I'll check the motor mounts and report back. Like I said, this car was someone's unfinished project, most of the car has been gone through and is in really good shape. Based on the rest of the car I suspect that I'll find the motor mounts have been replaced. 

 

I think it more likely that the mount points on the driveshaft tunnel might be too low and may need to be moved. 

20190212_182532.jpg

20190212_182424.jpg

Koboldtopf - '67 1600-2

Einhorn - '74 tii

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Yup, it's a 240!

 

If it is low, it would be very easy to shim it up.

But check your driveshaft angle to the center

bearing.  If the driveshaft sags, that's a sure indication

that the rear is low.  In fact, it's the only thing that REALLY

matters about the rear trans position.

 

hth

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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I spent some time under the car this weekend and discovered a couple of things. (Please remember, this car is new to me and just getting sorted out). The transmission mount isn't tightened to the crossbar, and I found the driver side engine mount missing a nut. That being said, there really doesn't seem to be any room to move the output shaft end of the transmission more than just a little bit higher. From what I can see, while one engine mount may be missing a nut, both mounts looked OK. I checked the drag link for straightness in case someone had gotten a floor jack under it, but it looks straight.

 

Any ideas very welcome - I really don't see any room at the top of the transmission tunnel, the drivers side is almost touching as it is.

20190216_112326.jpg

20190216_112143.jpg

 

It's really hard to get a picture that shows how close the transmission is to the transmission tunnel.

 

20190216_110320.jpg

 

 

This picture is with my jack in the center of the transmission lifting gently and the wheels straight ahead - even with that, when I turn the wheel the drag link rubs. 

 

 

20190218_194757.jpg

 

There is only about a hands width between the frame member and the oil pan, as suggested it should be. 

 

20190216_110551.jpg

Edited by BarrettN
added pic

Koboldtopf - '67 1600-2

Einhorn - '74 tii

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On 2/13/2019 at 3:23 PM, 02crazy said:

Hi, it looks like you haven't clearances the bell housing rib on the transmission. 240 cases need to have the rib ground down to clear the drag link. 

Wow - I haven't come across mention of that anywhere. And I suppose to machine the rib down properly the transmission needs to come out? Do you know anywhere where it documents how much need to be shaved off, etc?

Koboldtopf - '67 1600-2

Einhorn - '74 tii

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33 minutes ago, BarrettN said:

Wow - I haven't come across mention of that anywhere. And I suppose to machine the rib down properly the transmission needs to come out? Do you know anywhere where it documents how much need to be shaved off, etc?

 

The pictures suggest the transmission was located to keep the drag link from, um, dragging, which implies that the giubo-driveshaft alignment may not be quite right. The transmission cross member shouldn't be dropped down from the floor like that either. Once you get the case clearances and the motor mounts tight it would be good to review driveshaft alignment so you don't trash your giubo.

 

Someone who knows more about the subject than me can speak to how those trans fit in the tunnel and where it needs to be "massaged."

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20190216_110320.jpg

This picture has problems.  The trans mount has something under it that raises the trans.  The cross the tunnel support is not up tight against the tunnel chair.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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