Steering Wheel Vibration

[2002#3]

1974 tii...

 

After a complete OEM underbelly rehab (front and rear suspension with upgrades; drive train [only in/out seals in the trans and diff]; CV joints; wheel bearings; motor mounts; etc), the car has developed a vibration only in the steering wheel (SW) beginning at 45 or so mph.  No SW vibration when SW is at center position (the 1.5-inch center "no steering response" area).  <45 mph:  no SW vibraton.  Going SW straight:  no vibration.  Occasionally, the SW vibration is not there at speed.   Sometimes it seems to come and go with pavement conditions.  However, the vibration is usually present, regardless.

 

No body, engine, or other vibration detected; only in the steering wheel.

 

After rehab, car pulled to the left on braking but that has gone away, presumably after seating of rotors.  Sticking caliper?

 

 

 

Current status:

• alignment:  Performed twice by a specialist.  Tracks perfectly.
• wheel bearings:  New.  Twice removed, repacked, seated and tightened appropriately.
• steering linkages, struts, and front suspension connections:  All tight.
• steering box:  Reconditioned and full.  SW and wheels turn nicely together.  No lag.  Feels tight.
• wheels:  lugs tight; wheels balanced
• brakes:  new tii rotors; pads not new but good; new Porterfield R4S on the shelf
• steering guibo:  New and tight.
• motor mounts:  New and tight.
• main guibo, drive shaft, and center bearing:  Tight.
• ball joints:  Seem to be tight.
•  

To be checked:

• calipers, pads, and rotors 

 

From the aforementioned, all seem in order; however, something ain't right.  I realize the vibration could be due to one or all of 50 issues. 

 

 Your thoughts, please.

 

Larry

[adawil2002]

Flare the washers & tighten the front thrust bushing bolts. Vern did that under light braking and that was the fix, thought I had warped rotors.

[Einspritz]

You didn't mention if you had the tires balanced to a high standard.

 

Also sometimes on "old" tires there is mild separation that you might not think about because the tires have good tread.

 

A quick test is to move the rear tires to the front to see if there is a change.

[2002#3]

Andrew:  Will do.

Einspritz:  New Pirelli CN36's; balanced at high speed.  Will reverse tires and test drive.

 

Thanks, Guys.

 

Larry

[Guy Cocquyt]

Did you change rims recently? I did and had the wrong lugs. Even though they were snug, they were not centred and I had a terrible vibration in the steering wheel.

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[2002#3]

Thanks, Guy, for the suggestion.  Original steel wheels (but alloys on next week).  Will check the lugs.

Larry

[andyleonard]

Had one of these recently. Felt like a wheel out of balance at 45-50 mph, but only when turning one way or the other, nothing when going straight. A small tightening of the steering box adjustment got rid of it.

 

With the idler arm being so tight that they're impossible to move by hand (at stock torque), you almost have to adjust the steering box when it's disconnected from the track rod in order to feel what's really going on. Seeing as how yours is newish, maybe it's bedding in and there's a little play there but not enough to feel at the wheel with everything hooked up. Cheap to try.

[PaulTWinterton]

3 hours ago, Einspritz said:

You didn't mention if you had the tires balanced to a high standard.

 

It took me 3 shops to get it right. 

[Dudeland]

 
It took me 3 shops to get it right. 

I skipped the two other shops and went to the one with the $150k wheel balancer, cheaper ones won’t allow you to pick the balance speed.


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[Mucci]

You ever sort this out?