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Everything posted by Mucci

  1. Not sure you're both talking about the same thing. I believe stephers is talking about taking some off the metal actuating arm and Jimk is referring to the cable eyelet. The actuating arm is made of thicker steel on these shoes I bought so that's what I did, took a bit off, and it fixed the issue. There's still enough meat on there that the cable would snap way before you'd be able to break that hunk of steel plate. It's a good 3/16" thick at least. And as an FYI, I have no idea how that upper tension spring was able to be routed inbetween the arm and the shoe plate in the above photo (red circle). The space inbetween those pieces on my shoes is thinner than the spring gauge.
  2. I can, jut wanted to make sure the interference wasn't because I installed something wrong.
  3. Hmmm, a couple questions... Red: Is this the proper spring routing where it goes behind the shoe plate then pokes through? I have mine on the opposite way. Maybe having the spring between the shoe plate and hand brake arm will distance it. Blue: this is where the issue is I'm having. The hand brake arm is notching itself behind the M-spring tip that pokes through the hole.
  4. Just replaced the drums, shoes and wheel cylinders out back on my 1975. I realized the left rear ebrake cable is sticking. I pulled the drum back off to inspect and found that the ebrake arm attached to the shoe is catching on the end of the M tension spring that protrudes through the hole of the shoe. Basically the ebrake is pulled, the arm notches itself behind the tip of the spring then it won’t return. I tried taking a few mm off the tip of the spring to give it clearance but it’s still catching. it looks like that arm attached to the drum is made of thicker metal than the ones I pulled off. I actually had to squeeze pretty hard to get the hook into the eyelet on the cable. I can push on the arm with a screw driver to release it from the spring interference and it will retract as it should. Has anyone else experienced this? Is there some adjustment I’m missing?
  5. "Back bleeding" is common in the motorcycle & bicycle world. You can buy a "back bleed kit" on Amazon for around $10 which is just a syringe, piece of tubing and an in-line crimp. Works like a charm! (disregard the metal fitting, that's for a cycle brake)
  6. Can someone further explain the driveshaft alignment procedure? "Straight" how? In what axis? Does straight mean parallel to something?
  7. Bumping this old ass thread because I'm also curious about the above question. How do the spring ends sit in the perches correctly if you cut something other than a full coil? I thought the spring pads were "keyed" up top?
  8. What’s the issue with the later 240’s for the M42?
  9. Reviving this old one... What driveshaft is needed to make the 240 work?
  10. I read Andrew's LSD build and he uses the E36 318ti guts into an E21 case. I'm a metalworker so I'm fine with needing to clearance a bit if needed. I can pick up an E36 318 LSD for 1/3 the price of an E21 diff at this point so I feel like it's worth it. Down the line I'd like to build a turbo kit for it as well...but boy is there a lot to do before then.
  11. I do have plans to hop her up a bit. I'm putting together an Ansa sport header-back system mated to long tube headers. It's also got electronic ignition and a Weber 32/36 on it. Just maybe that'll put me into triple digits! I'll be moving to Santa Cruz soon so I'd say most of my driving will be tight and twisty with the city being surrounded by mountains. So, back to my 2nd question; can I swap the 02 ring gear onto the E36 LSD guts?
  12. ...but has the power to make up for it. I’m still rocking the 99 ponies 😁
  13. I'm curious if anyone's running a 3.46 LSD with the 4 speed and how they like it. My main concern is if the car feels significantly less peppy down low. Asking because I could pick up an E36 318ti 3.46 LSD locally for pretty cheap and do the "guts swap". Question 2: Can I mate the stock 02 3.64 ring gear to the E36 LSD internals to keep the same gearing?
  14. Ooo that plenum is awesome. Are those DCOE’s behind it?
  15. Call Redline (owns Weber) and ask them. They’ve been super friendly and helpful whenever I’ve called with tech questions.
  16. I'm curious to hear about some power figures from someone who's run this on an 02. Anyone out there? Was there a significant power increase over the 32/36 or 38/38?
  17. Yes, match the doors to the ignition because the ignition cylinder is riveted together. It can be taken apart and the rivets replaced with screws but there’s a high risk of damaging the internals to get the rivets drilled out.
  18. Yes. They can even open up the lock cylinder and reverse engineer a key from looking at the pin layout. I’ve had both done. One issue I ran into was that locks had been replaced and not matched so the ignition key didn’t work in the doors. If you’re not sure they match maybe bring them all along. My local locksmith took apart the ignition, reverse engineered a key then matched ask the doors (besides the trunk) and cut me 3 keys all for $75! I was blown away how cheap it was.
  19. realoem isn't going to tell me the weight advantage or compatibility for an 02.
  20. Why do people make the distinction of E12 when referencing the M30 starter? Are E28 M30 starters not the SR441X?
  21. Those are just example links. You can plug the part numbers into google and seek them from wherever your skeptical heart finds solace.
  22. Sometimes I can really get sucked into a Matrix of part number cross referencing to find deals....and this one was a doozy. It's been stated many times that the best starter upgrade for our cars is the Bosch SR440X that came in the E30 M3. It's smaller, lighter, and more powerful. It's also not cheap, at around $200+ for a remanufactured unit. So I started looking for alternatives and found this unit by Valeo, #594085, which is listed as fitting the E30 M3. EBay Valeo 594085 Starter 88-91 BMW M3 2.3L-L4 NEW $115.50 shipped (New) Then the same Valeo 594085 starter here for cheaper $82.99 shipped (New) Shall we go deeper?... I then found this unit by "Gladiator" that's said to be a replacement for that Valeo 594085 eBay: Gladiator 19670 $55.11 shipped (New) - 1yr. Warranty Part Number: "5840133 IS1279 IS 1279 19670" (That's probably several different part numbers but that's what's listed) I don't know anything about Gladiator as a brand so if someone can find some info that'd be great. Valeo I know is nice quality. I've had a few VW's that use their alternators as OE parts and they are NOT cheap. If anyone can add more info to this I'll be happy to include it. This post brought to you by Adderall.
  23. Because I can get one for free but I’ll look into the m30/m3 starter. Those are the same unit or just both good options?
  24. I read something that said the IE lightweight starter was a modified M20 starter. Is that true? Is it possible to use parts from the 02 starter and the M20?
  25. I hadn’t thought that the first few cranks might be fine because after that it builds more compression. Could just be the difference of oiling the rings after a couple rotations causing a better seal. I’ll be happy to uninstall this garbage for the last time. It has to be at least 20% of the total vehicle weight.
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