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123 No ignition


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Car ran great. 008 dizzy with points. 

 

Had bright idea. 

 

Bought 123tune W/ BT. 

 

Read forum posts. 

 

Installed borsch blue coil. 

 

Found TDC on flywheel. 

 

Removed perfectly working Dizzy. 

 

Installed and wired 123 per very tiny manual. 

 

Car cranks but wont start. 

 

Face palm. 

 

I included a picture so you can dumby check me if you would be so kind. 

 

3 questions:

 

1 - what am I doing when I physically turn the dizzy cw vs ccw and how large of an impact is this having on timing? 

 

2 - the 123 dizzy 'green light' zone is rather large, is it just a ballpark? 

 

3 - should I just pull the valve cover and find TDC that way, remove the 123, pop it back in facing 1 on the dial? 

 

Additinal bonus curiosity question - if I have the timing set backwards and my 'tdc' was lined up with the four cylinder, What would happen if I switched the plugs( other than being ghetto/wrong). 

 

IMG_3214.thumb.JPG.5a61a0b8b2465d637380152448b1737f.JPG

 

JB

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Follow the instructions when seeking the (green) light. Make sure that the black wire is disconnected and then rotate clockwise until the light just comes on. This is just a static setting so don't worry too much. I would verify that you have TDC on no 1 cylinder by taking the valve cover off. You are correct about swapping the leads but you might want to do it just to get your head right and check your working.

 

Now next thing is to connect via Bluetooth and enter the PIN number. Default is 1234. You can then check the default curve, which you can use to start the car but I wouldn't  expect much more out of. Take the opportunity to load up another curve that you may favour from one of the other threads on this subject. Make sure that you step out of every text field and save the changed curve. The user interface is a little clunky but does the job. 

 

If if this still doesn't work, or you can't connect then you can complete a hard reset (from Leenpak website) before starting setup from scratch.

 

Dear Thomas,

to reset the 123/TUNE+:

- Close down all 123TUNE Apps (very important!!! )
- Turn off the power of the engine 
- Disconnect the black wire from the coil and connect it with the red (+ 12 Volt) wire. 

- Turn the power on. The blue LED will flash for about 10 seconds, DO NOT interrupt this proces.
- When the blue LED lights continuously, the reset procedure is complete. 
- Turn off the power again and re-connect the black wire to the -ve side of the coil.

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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One thing to check is did you play around and turn the immobilizer on?  I did the day after I installed and it took me 30 min to figure out I enabled the immobilizer playing around in the software and forgot to disable it. 

1976 BMW 2002 Fjord Blue Ireland Stage II • Bilstein Sports • Ireland Headers • Weber 38 • 292 Cam • 9.5:1 Pistons • 123Tune Bluetooth 15" BBS

2018 BMW M550i X-Drive

1964 Volvo Amazon Wagon
http://www.project2002.com

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37 minutes ago, JordanBbradley said:

Totally got everything on the app side connected. Loaded the tii curve to start with. The car just cranked a lot and then backfired so I'm assuming I'm backwards. 

 

If it fires at all then you have spark. Sounds like you are backwards. 

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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Looking at your picture, your dizzy is about 60-80 degrees more clockwise than mine, i.e., the latchdown is not in the same position. Did you reinsert the new dizzy in exactly the same position.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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15 hours ago, JordanBbradley said:

Found TDC on flywheel. 

 

I just did this for my 123 Ignition install.  Lots of confusion making sure that the engine is set at Static TDC before pull the distributor.  I verified TDC in three places, the cam shaft line under the oil bar, the TO line on the flywheel and the notches on the crankshaft pulley.  This thread was helpful.

 

 

Once you are at TDC and the rotor is pointing at a distibutor cap lead and you get the green light under the rotor to just light up by turning the distributor housing, lock it down and use that lead as your #1 spark plug lead and then connect the rest clockwise (3, 4, 2).  Check your timing maps with the app and you should be able to start the car.

 

Have fun,

 

 

Mark92131

1970 BMW 1600 (Nevada)

 

 

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The green light isn't very exact.  I had to add a few degrees of advance to get my car to start (the "right" way would be to turn the distributor a few degrees instead).  Regarding frankg's comment, the orientation of the distributor body to the engine is irrelevant as long as the engine is a TDC and the #1 lead is connected to the correct post on the cap (the one the rotor is pointing to).

Matthew Cervi
'71 Bavaria

'18 M2

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Way to go, Jordon... not sure how you installed the FW incorrectly... they should be keyed with a dowel?

 

Anyhoo.  Now you have no excuses to NOT join the Houston group leaving for MidAm in the morning... we'll tune the 123 up in Eureka :)

 

Ed

 

 

'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

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Not really possible to have the flywheel 180 out unless the locating sleeve is missing (unlikely but possible I guess), though the crankshaft passes TDC twice for every cycle, you were probably at the top of the exhaust cycle as opposed to the intake cycle, common mistake.

74 Golf

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