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Jaymic Nose Patch Installation Guide


eurotrash

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11900114_10153562478654568_3585531699017

 

 

There have been several nose panels delivered to the states and abroad, with little input thus far. on the process for installation. We have been left to our own devices, really. So I figure that a collaborative how-to is in order. It will be important to note the following things..

1. Rusty sheet metal removal process. Spot welds, cutting if used on later cars, etc.
2. Common metal loss of the bulkhead metal behind the old panels, and the parts and procedures to restore that metal prior to installing the patch, to prevent the problem from reoccurring.
3. Installation process. weld locations, problem areas. etc.

Thanks for any and all input folks. This should serve everyone well, as time goes by.

 

If you have one, ring in, even if its not installed just yet..

 

IMG_6444.jpg

 

2002 newbie, and dead serious about it.
(O=o00o=O)
Smart Audio Products for your 2002

 

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How much of the rear structure is there? Or is it literally just the front skin?

I would start by stripping the old panel to look for spot welds to drill out.

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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Its literally just the front skin.  The process is of course pretty straight forward, ish..  but I thought I would start this thread to get ahead of the game..  I initially started in the blog section, bot didn't like how the comments are structured.  So this is a better deal, and maybe it can get converted to as tutorial one day.

 

I am using it for a repair panel, as much as a euro bumper conversion piece...  We are snipping off the top, which is roundie specific.  Sort of like this..

 

image11.jpg

2002 newbie, and dead serious about it.
(O=o00o=O)
Smart Audio Products for your 2002

 

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2 thoughts, never having used this panel in particular, but having done front panel work...

 

1- it's pretty unusual for the vertical panel to survive if the nose is holed.  So figure on 

quite a bit of work before one can use this panel.

 

2- slicing it below the grille opening makes it pretty wobbly, and due to the shape of the curves,

it's not a beginner's job to tie new and old panels.  That sucker loves to warp...  

 

That said, nice, that's a good thing to know about.

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I've been looking for this panel, but I can't find it on Jaymic website, or anywhere else. I do find the complete nose, but that's much more than I need. I guess I have to patch my rust the old fashioned way.

On Jaymic's website....go to 02 Parts, then 02 Body Repair Panels, it's the top item on page 2.

Les

'74 '02 - Jade Touring (RHD)

'76 '02 - Delk's "Da Beater"

FAQ Member #17

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  • 5 months later...
  • 4 years later...

Couldn't that nose patch panel have been installed much more efficiently?  Instead of cutting horizontally and applying 4 feet of welds, why not cut vertically, about one inch side the lower fender seams...leaving a tab to spot weld the face of the patch panel to.  It may or may not be necessary to remove the lower fender bolts, perhaps the patch panel can be trimmed to avoid that.  
 

-Jaycen PNW2002

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I’m installing one now, I cut it out like this as the stamping is not as detailed in the corners and around the center grill as the original...

23A53067-8AF6-42DB-9F4F-5B2C29CB7374.jpeg

  • Like 1

Don’t let the fear of what could happen

make nothing happen…

 

  

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