electrical and ignition Keys-Key Codes

[peterschop]

Hmm, sometimes things can be difficult. I would try wiping the end off with a little solvent and see if that will reveal the number. If that fails, remove the circlip and pull out the cylinder for closer examination. My '74's number is a B followed with three digits. BXXX

[Mucci]

Thanks for posting OP! That was a quick 2min job getting the passenger door pull off. 

 

For reference:

 

[Mucci]

So I just got a key cut using the pass. door handle and code. Key works for the pass. door but not the ignition or drivers door. My old key worked on both doors and ignition.

 

Am I missing something? Did I somehow cut a reverse valet key?

Edited July 9, 2019 by Mucci

[Conserv]

24 minutes ago, Mucci said:

 

...Am I missing something? Did I somehow cut a reverse valet key?

 

 

Probably not: your driver’s door and ignition lock cylinders have worn more than your passenger’s door lock cylinder.

 

I got new keys from BMW for the ‘73 based solely on the original key codes. The driver’s door and ignition worked not at all but the passenger’s door could be unlocked if you jiggled the new key a bit. I had the car’s original keys (with codes) and, I’m guessing, an old copied set (without codes), so I simply had the brand new keys re-cut — touched up — to match the worn originals.  Now all three sets work, but none is crisp and new.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

 

[Mucci]

1 minute ago, Conserv said:

 

Probably not: your driver’s door and ignition lock cylinders have worn more than your passenger’s door lock cylinder.

 

I got new keys from BMW for the ‘73 based solely on the original key codes. The driver’s door and ignition worked not at all but the passenger’s door could be unlocked if you jiggled the new key a bit. I had the car’s original keys (with codes) and, I’m guessing, an old copied set (without codes), so I simply had the brand new keys re-cut — touched up — to match the worn originals.  Now all three sets work, but none is crisp and new.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

 

 

So if I don't have the original key anymore how would I fix this? Hit the new keys with a deburring wheel?

[Conserv]

Take the new keys and the lock cylinders to a locksmith and yell “help!” Originally, as I believe you know, one key opened either front door and also turned the ignition lock, while a second key operated solely the trunk lock. Just because many ‘02’s by now take two or even three different keys to open the doors and turn the ignition — thanks to post-factory changes and repairs — I suspect you need to have all three of them handy to ensure your new key works in all three lock cylinders.

 

Don't worry, someone who knows far more about locksmithing than I should be along any minute.... ?

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Edited July 9, 2019 by Conserv

[Mucci]

Well, I pulled the other two cylinders. The driver's door doesn't have a W number on it and appears to be newer than the passenger side. 

 

Went back to the locksmith and he found that someone took two pins out of the driver's cylinder and filed a third. Likely to get it to "match" the ignition key. On top of that it also doesn't match the pass. side. 

 

I left it all with him and he's going to try to use what's left of the driver's cylinder to make guesses on a key for the ignition cylinder. Once he's figured that out he's going to rekey the pass side. It's never easy...

[Toga]

Hi gentlemen,

interesting thread with lots of infos, tks. Could some one tell me if the figures in the key code are fix values? I mean if I have 2 locks let's say W1350 and the other W1530 If I open the barrel 1530 and swap the small pin in position 2 and 3 on the second lock would I create a W1350? I have several locks with no keys, and this would definitely solve my problem of having one key per lock.

 

Thanks for your help.

Edited June 16, 2020 by Toga

[David Layton]

Can a Locksmith examine the ignition key and determine the Key Code?  I am assuming the key code correlates to the standard patterns and depths on the key face.

[Mucci]

1 hour ago, David Layton said:

Can a Locksmith examine the ignition key and determine the Key Code?  I am assuming the key code correlates to the standard patterns and depths on the key face.

Yes. They can even open up the lock cylinder and reverse engineer a key from looking at the pin layout. I’ve had both done. 
 

One issue I ran into was that locks had been replaced and not matched so the ignition key didn’t work in the doors. If you’re not sure they match maybe bring them all along. 
 

My local locksmith took apart the ignition, reverse engineered a key then matched ask the doors (besides the trunk) and cut me 3 keys all for $75! I was blown away how cheap it was. 

[David Layton]

What I have is a 73 which appears to have 3 different locks between the doors and the ignition.  The trunk is a different item.

 

The chrome was not in the best of shape on the driver's door handle, so I bought a matching pair of door handles (for the less than the cost of re-chroming) with very good chrome, matching key codes!  However, no keys!  So, I would like to get the Ignition and the door locks to match.  I am thinking of having the doors matched to the ignition for which I have a good factory steel keys.

[Mucci]

41 minutes ago, David Layton said:

What I have is a 73 which appears to have 3 different locks between the doors and the ignition.  The trunk is a different item.

 

The chrome was not in the best of shape on the driver's door handle, so I bought a matching pair of door handles (for the less than the cost of re-chroming) with very good chrome, matching key codes!  However, no keys!  So, I would like to get the Ignition and the door locks to match.  I am thinking of having the doors matched to the ignition for which I have a good factory steel keys.

Yes, match the doors to the ignition because the ignition cylinder is riveted together. It can be taken apart and the rivets replaced with screws but there’s a high risk of damaging the internals to get the rivets drilled out. 

[xavier296]

On 5/31/2020 at 12:16 PM, Toga said:

Hi gentlemen,

interesting thread with lots of infos, tks. Could some one tell me if the figures in the key code are fix values? I mean if I have 2 locks let's say W1350 and the other W1530 If I open the barrel 1530 and swap the small pin in position 2 and 3 on the second lock would I create a W1350? I have several locks with no keys, and this would definitely solve my problem of having one key per lock.

 

Thanks for your help.

I've done this before on a BMW motorcycle, so pretty sure it is possible. My ignition and door keys don't match, so I'll look in to it also.

[Einspritz]

There used to be a lock service kit from BMW with all manner of tumblers. It was not generally listed as a part in the books, but was available if your parts guy knew how to search for it.

 

Anyone know that part number?

 

I know a similar kit is available for the E30, and have used that to rekey the locks and ignition.

[xavier296]

https://www.mototrip-tours.com/blog/workshop/rekeying-bmw-case-locks/

 

Different kind of key, but shows the basic steps. I'm sure someone here can tell us if it can also be done on our old locks.