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quick question about oil change

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About to do my first oil change (for this car). I've got front wheels up on - engine cooling down.

Does it drain better in this inclined position or should I jack up the back to get it more horizontal?

Mobil Super 10w40 and mobil oil filter m102 (iirc)

Byas

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yes - let the jack down to let all the oil drain

out of the pan

no - use 20w/50 oil

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As c.d. says get the car level for the oil to drain, and it helps to warm the engine up a little first. Not so hot that the oil burns your hands as you get the drain plug out, but warmed up enough that it drains a little faster. When you're down to an occassional drip coming out you're fine. You don't have to try and match the speed of a JiffyLube oil change.

Bob Napier

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Well, it was a bust. I could not get the oil drain bolt off. I tired doubling wrenches for leverage, tried to tighten first, tried a wrench plus hammer. I've got busted knuckles, cut hand, but no progress on that damn bolt. It was beginning to round. So I stopped. Decided, I'll probably go to a local shop or Jiffy lube and get them to loosen in. Probably will buy a new one a sealing washer first.

Since it was a nice enough day I decided to get some other work done. Installed the lock strip on my front glass. Car came without lockstrips on either end. Finally got the hang of the lock strip tool. But, after installing I found the wiper would not clear -- probably the URO gasket to blame. I pulled out the wiper linkage and removed the lock washer as a temp fix to give it an additional couple of mm. That worked. But, it ended up being a much longer day than I expected.

Byas

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On my first oil change I had to use a breaker bar to get the oil drain plug off. Remember if you are facing the front of the car the nut loosens as you pull it towards your body. Lefty loosey righty tighty.

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yes - - - Please buy a new drain plug and A FEW

sealing washers before you return to the extraction.

seems you currently have either no crush

washer or it's 100 years old and the PO

wanted to be sure Not To Spend Any

More Money On the Car, or was Just DumB!

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Or the PO was my father, who was of the mindset that the drain plug should be so tight, only a gorilla with a breaker bar could get it loose. Amazed that man never stripped the thread.

The first time we re-built an engine together, I could see how my "over-use" of the torque wrench was paining him.

:)

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CD,

Isee 2 diff part numbers on the Penske site. An M22x1.5 part and an AM12x1.5. What's the diff and which should I use?

I also see 2 sealing rings -- one in Cu another in Al.

Byas

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should be the M22 ..... BIG diameter.

(M12 is a much smaller diameter)

I've always used AL washers, personal preference.

-- HINT: replace them often. I used one over and over and over and over, ad infinitum .... eventually it became a locked washer, I trashed the drain plug getting it out. Replace the washer often.

Cheers,

Carl

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bmw pn#07-11-9-963-355 abuck 25 each the description box states 990c gasket RI

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Finally got it done yesterday. Removed the old plug with a breaker bar. Here's a pic of the old and new (on left). The new has many more threads. Is this the right one -- and the old one incorrect? (what's it from?)

IMG_2731_zpscea0b0af.jpg

Byas

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The longer one works fine. I've seen both. Seems like the short ones are on the later M10s

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yep, the longer one is length of my original plug.

and see how that old washer is well-flattened ?? Same happened to me and became a locked washer ...... replace the washer often !!

Cheers,

Carl

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