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PaulTWinterton

Pedal Box Fun.

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I must say that so far rebuilding the pedal box has been quite satisfying. I didn't know until opening the cover, that the MC was leaking. Mix fluid with carpet fibres, grease and dirt and you get a rusty gooey cesspool.

The good news is, that it's easy to remove, clean, and paint. I found a good matching paint for the gunmetal color of the box and pedal levers.

The outside insulation (thanks BLUNT) is much better than I thought it would be. Mine was a black dirty sponge that fell off in pieces. The new one has skin on it and seems much more rugged, or maybe it's just because it's new. Looks great though.

Next endeavour is to plumb the new MC and SC correctly. I'm sure I'll be asking for advice.

Cheers.

k3kjk1.jpg

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I just did mine a few months back. The one part that gave me the most trouble was getting the plastic hose from the reservoir to sit perfectly into the MC.

The only way I could get it to go in was to mount the pedal box without the MC. Then install both lines to the clutch MC then install the MC into the pedal box.

It was tricky but well worth it.

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Dejammey, you say "plastic" hose from reservoir? It's metal, right? Mine is.

I've read that assembling the MC and "pipe" to reservoir first is best. Makes sense, as working on top of the MC once installed looks tough.

What I don't understand yet is the fitting of the filler "pipe" into the MC. My old MC is still dangling under the car and I'm getting ready to pull out the pipe and see how it fits into the top of the MC. I see in diagrams that there is a grommet that (appears to) seal the pipe into the MC. ?

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Looks great! Any idea if the inner insulation piece with the slots for the pedal arms is still available? Mine split when I took it off.

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Dejammey, you say "plastic" hose from reservoir? It's metal, right? Mine is.

I've read that assembling the MC and "pipe" to reservoir first is best. Makes sense, as working on top of the MC once installed looks tough.

What I don't understand yet is the fitting of the filler "pipe" into the MC. My old MC is still dangling under the car and I'm getting ready to pull out the pipe and see how it fits into the top of the MC. I see in diagrams that there is a grommet that (appears to) seal the pipe into the MC. ?

Yea some are plastic and some are metal. I think early 02s are metal. I think.

I had to install the hose to the reservoir last because moving the MC around to install it would cause the metal/plastic hose to pop out on the MC end.

The only way I could get it to work was to install both lines to the MC first. Then install the MC. When all that was done I was able to install the hose to the clutch slave and the line to the reservoir with no problem.

It took me a good hour or so of yelling at the car before I got it all worked out.

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Yes, all parts and kits are available. Try BluntTech, [email protected]

Steve Blunt’s your man.

Dejammey, mine is metal, as I’m pretty sure all were upto 74. I hoping my pops in and stays without too much grief.

I yell at my car too.

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I was thinking about doing mine shortly. Do you know where I can source a bushing kit or is this a part by part ordering job?

Pete

Blunt Tech hooked me up with a rebuild kit and it was in my hands in 2 days.

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Hi,

many people talk about renovating the pedal box.

some because of the poor condition inside the

box. others because the pedal box makes the

pedals drag or stick. even recently i rebuilt a box

for a customer. he later called me because the

brake pedal still stuck.

for many years i have found that the brake

pedal movement is affected by two pivot points

and that most people don't know about the

second spot.

so the other pivot point is where the motion of

the pedal is converted from up and down to

forward motion into the brake booster. i call it

a "Z" bracket but thats just a name. the part is

bolted within the booster tower bracket and is

built just like the pedal pivot point. it has plastic

as a bushing and when the moisture from the

air gets into it, then the rust begins to swell the

inner sleeve that it is all bolted too.

well this is no easy project but if you have the

pedal box out it is already loose and can be rebuilt

at the same time. look at real oem and get an

idea of the part and rebuild this area while

you work on the associated parts.

good luck

stone

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Hi,

many people talk about renovating the pedal box.

some because of the poor condition inside the

box. others because the pedal box makes the

pedals drag or stick. even recently i rebuilt a box

for a customer. he later called me because the

brake pedal still stuck.

for many years i have found that the brake

pedal movement is affected by two pivot points

and that most people don't know about the

second spot.

so the other pivot point is where the motion of

the pedal is converted from up and down to

forward motion into the brake booster. i call it

a "Z" bracket but thats just a name. the part is

bolted within the booster tower bracket and is

built just like the pedal pivot point. it has plastic

as a bushing and when the moisture from the

air gets into it, then the rust begins to swell the

inner sleeve that it is all bolted too.

well this is no easy project but if you have the

pedal box out it is already loose and can be rebuilt

at the same time. look at real oem and get an

idea of the part and rebuild this area while

you work on the associated parts.

good luck

stone

Funny you mention this upper pivot point. I just removed it from my "Z" piece on the 69 and noticed there are (2) nylon bushings covering the metal pipe/sleeve. I already have a pedal box rebuild kit from Steve but will add those bushings to my list of future purchases.

Edit - pictures added

IMG_8573.jpg

IMG_8579.jpg

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Who is this saint called Blunt? How and where can I meet him? I need some of his heeling power for my rust buckets. I once heard that he lives in God's Country, is that Heaven?

lol^2

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I must say that so far rebuilding the pedal box has been quite satisfying. I didn't know until opening the cover, that the MC was leaking. Mix fluid with carpet fibres, grease and dirt and you get a rusty gooey cesspool.

The good news is, that it's easy to remove, clean, and paint. I found a good matching paint for the gunmetal color of the box and pedal levers.

The outside insulation (thanks BLUNT) is much better than I thought it would be. Mine was a black dirty sponge that fell off in pieces. The new one has skin on it and seems much more rugged, or maybe it's just because it's new. Looks great though.

Next endeavour is to plumb the new MC and SC correctly. I'm sure I'll be asking for advice.

Cheers.

k3kjk1.jpg

The paint color looks just right what did you use (color and brand?). Tx

www.alpinabmw2002.com

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PlastiKote, Gun Metal Metallic #1018.

Used steel wool to take the original paint down to a dull finish. Used 4 coats. Exceptionally hard finish once cured. I'm very happy with the paint and the finish.

8wwkzm.jpg

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