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Winter! Salt! Rust?


Dachshund

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I am seeking rust-proofing advice! Yes, I have heard that the weather is quite nice in Santa Barbara. But I have no plans to move, and the city of Chicago uses plenty of salt on the roads. A previous owner took apart and repainted my 2002 about ten years ago, and any rust was repaired at that time. Well, maybe it has a little rust somewhere, but at least it is ten-year-old rust, not 38-year-old rust. The reason I acquired a 38-year-old car is because I thought it would be fun to drive it! And not just for eight months of the year, but during the winter, too. Mine is not supposed to be a show car (as you would know if you saw the interior). There must be other people out there in the same situation, right? New York, Vermont, Ohio -- do you drive your cars in the winter? Anyway, here is my plan:

i. Put on my finest work clothes, and maybe some goggles, because I have a feeling this might be a messy job.

ii. Crawl underneath armed with a scotch-brite soaked in some sort of solvent, and scrub the grime off any surface I can reach.

iii. Hose off the underside, maybe even splash on a little soapy water to clean off the solvent, and give everything a good rinse.

iv. Crawl back underneath and slap a coat of POR-15 on every surface I can reach.

v. (optional) If I want to get really fancy, maybe even a coat of POR-15's Rubberized Under Coating from a spray can.

I would appreciate any advice/comments/criticisms/ridicule related to this project. In particular: Anyone done this before? Are there certain areas I should be sure to hit, like crevices that are notorious for rust? Any recommendations for a solvent/cleaner? Any recommendations for what protectant to apply, since POR-15 appears to cost $150 per gallon? Do people actually hose off the underside when they get home from driving on salted roads?

Thanks in advance. My apologies if this has already been covered elsewhere, just point me to a link. And those of you in California, if this seems like a strange concern, please feel free to just go about your business, and be careful not to let your surfboard scratch the roof of your 2002, that would really be a bummer!

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FYI: I have loved POR-15 in the past, but its not as invincible as once thought... Even if you follow the instructions well for surface prep, it'll still probably rust after a couple years if you drive it on salty roads. It's happening to a couple of my friends that have used it extensively (one with an 02, and another with a VW Caddy). Further worsening it, some of the new chemicals used to prevent ice can be even more corrosive than salt.

My POR-15'd patches on my 02 have held up wheel for 5 years, but I haven't taken it out in salt (and its far from a show car, actually quite a beater).

I've heard good things about using epoxy primers or cold galvanizing compound first, but have yet to try it. I'm also considering yearly applications of dripless oil or some other waxy substance to the entire undercarriage. Nasty stuff, but it'll stop rust. Even if I do all this stuff to my cars, I still won't drive them in Ohio winter's... just dont want to trust it.

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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is...don't drive it in the salt. You can slow the rust down, but you won't stop it and eventually it'll get the best of you and you'll have either a parts car or a very expensive refurbishment project. This from someone who drove a 2002 in 30 Ohio winters and then spent several years welding new metal onto the car--more than once--to get it back nice again.

All 2002 owners--whether they live in New England or Arizona--have iophobia (a fear of rust)...

Actually the underside of the car is the least of your worries--the floorpan itself stays pretty good; it's everything else, including the rear subframe, trailing front fender edges, door bottoms, rocker panels, rear wheel opening lips, rear shock mounts, nose panel, around the parking lights, trunk and hood perimeter seams etc etc. The list goes on and on.

If you're bound and determined (and I really would reconsider, buy a beater E30 for the winter and store your '02) I did a story in the BMW CCA Roundel back in 1984 (!) about rustproofing (actually slowing it down) 2002s...it predated word processing, but I could try scanning a copy for you.

bottom line advice: don't do it.

cheers

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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I have owned my '70 1600 since 1984 in upstate New York. I purchased the car from the original owner who was a proffesor at Cornell. The vehicle has spent its entire life in upstate New York. (you want salt, we have salt, salt, & more salt!) When I bought the 1600, I had to replace fenders, rockers, & wheel arches. The rest of the car was solid. I drove the car for 3 winters & I had to replace the same parts plus some floor panels. I then refused to drive it in the winter. The 1600 was restored in the early 90's & looks as good today as it did when it was finished.(When I can figure out how to upload photos I will). My advice: Don't drive in the snow & salt! My 1600 was rustproofed new & again during the first restoration, It still rusted! There is no way you will keep rust off that car if you drive it in the salt. Been there, done that! If you are not really concerned with it, drive it. I wanted to preserve mine so I bought winter beaters ranging from VW's, to Mazdas, to a 1970 Buick LeSabre(Ouch)! But it preserved the 1600 and I am a proud 27 year owner of a 1970 1600!

(It is still my favorite car to drive!) Good Luck!

1970 Granada 1600 "The 16",  2000 528i Siena Red "The 5",  1968 Mustang 289 Muscle Car Blue, 

1999 318ti M Package Green,  1982 633CSi 5 speed Blue,  2011 550i M Package Black (6 speed manual)

 

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I have owned my '70 1600 since 1984 in upstate New York. I purchased the car from the original owner who was a proffesor at Cornell. The vehicle has spent its entire life in upstate New York. (you want salt, we have salt, salt, & more salt!) When I bought the 1600, I had to replace fenders, rockers, & wheel arches. The rest of the car was solid. I drove the car for 3 winters & I had to replace the same parts plus some floor panels. I then refused to drive it in the winter. The 1600 was restored in the early 90's & looks as good today as it did when it was finished.(When I can figure out how to upload photos I will). My advice: Don't drive in the snow & salt! My 1600 was rustproofed new & again during the first restoration, It still rusted! There is no way you will keep rust off that car if you drive it in the salt. Been there, done that! If you are not really concerned with it, drive it. I wanted to preserve mine so I bought winter beaters ranging from VW's, to Mazdas, to a 1970 Buick LeSabre(Ouch)! But it preserved the 1600 and I am a proud 27 year owner of a 1970 1600!

(It is still my favorite car to drive!) Good Luck!

1970 Granada 1600 "The 16",  2000 528i Siena Red "The 5",  1968 Mustang 289 Muscle Car Blue, 

1999 318ti M Package Green,  1982 633CSi 5 speed Blue,  2011 550i M Package Black (6 speed manual)

 

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No matter what you do, DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR IN SALT. It's not galvanized and the salt compounds will get places you cannot, the car will rot so fast you won't be able to keep up.

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Andrew Wilson
Vern- 1973 2002tii, https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/blog/304-andrew-wilsons-vern-restoration/ 
Veronika- 1968 1600 Cabriolet, Athena- 1973 3.0 CSi,  Rodney- 1988 M5, The M3- 1997 M3,

The Unicorn- 2007 X3, Julia- 2007 Z4 Coupe, Ophelia- 2014 X3, Herman- 1914 KisselKar 4-40

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is...don't drive it in the salt. You can slow the rust down, but you won't stop it and eventually it'll get the best of you and you'll have either a parts car or a very expensive refurbishment project. This from someone who drove a 2002 in 30 Ohio winters and then spent several years welding new metal onto the car--more than once--to get it back nice again.

All 2002 owners--whether they live in New England or Arizona--have iophobia (a fear of rust)...

Actually the underside of the car is the least of your worries--the floorpan itself stays pretty good; it's everything else, including the rear subframe, trailing front fender edges, door bottoms, rocker panels, rear wheel opening lips, rear shock mounts, nose panel, around the parking lights, trunk and hood perimeter seams etc etc. The list goes on and on.

If you're bound and determined (and I really would reconsider, buy a beater E30 for the winter and store your '02) I did a story in the BMW CCA Roundel back in 1984 (!) about rustproofing (actually slowing it down) 2002s...it predated word processing, but I could try scanning a copy for you.

bottom line advice: don't do it.

cheers

mike

The underside of the 02 is one of the worse parts that rusts. I've parted out a number of North East 02s and the floor pans along with the front frame rails have been gone on most of them.

'03 BMW Z4 3.0i

’89 BMW 325is

'80 Mercedes-Benz 300SD
'20 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT

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Thanks everyone, this is useful feedback. I sense that much of the wisdom you have shared has been painfully derived from personal experience. My revised plan is:

1. Go ahead and perform the homemade rustproofing procedure I described above, just for extra protection;

AND

2. Do not drive on salted roads.

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One word: Don't.

Your new plan (prophylactic measures, followed by NOT driving it in the winter) is excellent.

The new book The Best Of The Hack Mechanic available at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0998950742, inscribed copies of all books available at www.robsiegel.com

1972 tii (Louie), 1973 2002 (Hampton), 1975 ti tribute (Bertha), 1972 Bavaria, 1973 3.0CSi, 1979 Euro 635CSi, 1999 Z3, 1999 M Coupe, 2003 530i sport, 1974 Lotus Europa Twin Cam Special (I know, I know...)

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