Is a rust-free car possible?

[Gromitspapa]

I live in CA and am thinking I'd like to get a square taillight '02 in the next few months. Can rust be avoided, or is it going to crash the party sooner or later every time?

What I'd like to do (but can't afford for a long time): Buy some rig for $20-25K that's completely restored. Likely someone will have spent a bunch more than that getting it there. Seems like the smart way to go vs starting cheap and ending up with $30K in the car. My understanding is no restoration will be rust-proof unless the car isn't driven in the wet. Will just washing it get water in the wrong places?

What I could do: Buy a car for $2-5K. Are there any zero-rust cars out there? If there was, it would probably have to be an original paint car to tell, right?

I guess I'm trying to figure out if a high dollar car is going to get ruined down the line or not, or if I should just live with a bubble here and there on a cheapie.

[bracohen]

I am picking up a '72 tomorrow that has only minor rust under the wheel well for well under 25,000. You're looking at show car status at that price. Just be patient and wait for the right car that seems like a reasonable starting point for you.

[Frenchee]

Depends what your looking for?

I don't understand if your looking for a show car, a clean DIY car or a beater.

In my opinion if ur looking for what I call a show car, I would find a reputable owner that is selling their nicely restored 2002 and buy it. That is if you don't care about having put 0 creativity or thought in your new car because you yourself did not build it or have someone build it to your specs.

You admitted to knowing you would save money that way.

My thought is a beater 02, or a nice DIY car is just as fun as a show car 02 if not more since you wont be worried about a pine needle falling on the paint.

Since u said you cant afford a 25k car find a cheaper nice running 2002. I bought a rust free project car 2002 with a rebuilt m20 turbo for under 5k.

[logume1881]

I bought an all original and stock 72 that had been maintained somewhat, but it is by no means a show car. The car only has a little bit of surface rust in a couple places, but then again I only paid $4500 and I drive it every day. I suppose it also depends on where you are located as well. California is by far the best place to buy a car, but the cars on the coast develop the peculiar "top down" rust phenomenon.

[Gromitspapa]

What I'm trying to say is I think the smart way to get a super nice car is to buy it sorted at a discount to what it takes to get it there. I don't think there are many cars that can be properly restored that will be worth as much or more when they're done, certainly not in this price range. What I'm wondering is once there, do these things still rust or is there a way to keep them rust-free?

I'd like to start with a $2-5K car, drive it and enjoy it. How crazy I go with fixing it up depends on if rust is going to play a role. If so, I'd keep it cheap and live with as little of it as possible. If not, I could "invest" more, knowing the value won't be undone by rust.

My ultimate goal (and it probably wouldn't be the first car) would be (1) an '04 tii in outstanding/show quality. It would make sense to me for that to be as original as possible or easily returned to that state. Or (2) would be a '74 or '75 non-tii with in similar condition with some moderate engine mods (or a small six) and a 5-speed transmission.

I'd like to have something more presentable than a beater, but I could start off with one and build up from there, assuming the rust issue could be avoided or controlled. Going that route would allow me to be creative, obviously. If I later bought a completely sorted car, it would need to be sorted in a way that I would prefer (i.e. color, mechanicals) or easily made so (i.e. wheels/tires, seats).

I'm in the SF bay area, but could imagine traveling 500 miles or more for the right car.

[Gromitspapa]

Here's an example. My thought is if this car truly has zero (visible) rust, it's not likely to start rusting unless it's driven in the rain. Does that sound right? I've seen this car not meet reserve at $14K and $16K. That price range seems reasonable for a 40K mile car with original paint and zero rust. I would go for something like that at a later date. Anybody know about this car?

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11030.m43.l1123/7?euid=a2ba478d34d64ff2b7c587b2f78a93cc&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D170561263560%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AB%3AEF%3AMOTORS%3A1123

[Gordon]

The trade off of rust is a sun damaged car and that's a big problem in CA. I scored a relatively rust free 70 Euro spec E3 2800 in Los Angeles for $300. The car came over from Germany around 71 time frame. The down side, the interior and paint was trashed by the sun but the body was straight and clean. I'll take sun damage any day over rust and salt damage. I had the 2800 repainted in the original color, Granada. The interior was reupholstered and I found a used replacement dash with no cracks on the internet.

http://www.coupeking.com/product_id-407.html

I recommend an E30 for a daily driver and a 02 for weekend canyon carving. But then again, I live in rural Santa Barbara county and I find myself driving my tii often. If I lived in a urban area, I would be driving my E30 more. I just don't feel comfortable in bumper to bumper traffic in my old school BMW's.

I recommend you find a clean CA 02 and drive it. Since you live in CA, dont' bother with a 76 since you don't want to deal with smog issues.

G-Man

[Guest Anonymous]

I think there is a 'smart' approach to rust thesse days ... There are severe rust issues that need replacement metal parts welded and sealed in place by someone that knows how to do it properly. Then there are lesser rust issuse that a DIY owner can handle in the driveway.

Rusted through roof panels, fenders, frame parts, wheel well, pedal box, shock mounts and towers really need professional attention. Light rust on rockers, panels, even at the bottom of the windows can be ground to the metal, rust converted into stable oxide with chemicals, then fiberglas and a bit of bondo patched over. The metal is stabilized and the area is encapsulated. Proper sealing, primering and painting can make a great looking repair that you'll forget exists.

A solid repair lasts and when your doing your Daily Driving, you won't get bothered if it gets wet or dirty. A real show car cannot be driven. Five minutes in a parking lot while shopping and some fool will certainly put a ding it it.

That's my .02 cents worth.

[02Les]

Here's an example. My thought is if this car truly has zero (visible) rust, it's not likely to start rusting unless it's driven in the rain. Does that sound right? I've seen this car not meet reserve at $14K and $16K. That price range seems reasonable for a 40K mile car with original paint and zero rust. I would go for something like that at a later date. Anybody know about this car?

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11030.m43.l1123/7?euid=a2ba478d34d64ff2b7c587b2f78a93cc&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D170561263560%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AB%3AEF%3AMOTORS%3A1123

This car was on Ebay 6 yrs ago. It was auctioned by BMW of Darien, CT.

Ask our very own CD (Creighton Demarest) about it.

HTH

[patmcc76]

I'd say "yes".

I live in Michigan so I know all about rusty cars. 3 years ago I found a rust free 76' on Craigslist San Jose for $1100.

Take a look at the slide show of the resto to see how rust free the car was.

http://europeanauto.biz/page1/page15/page15.html

You can certainly find a rust free later 02' in CA or the Southwest.

Good luck.

[jgerock]

Here is a fantastic '76 sunroof in primer. The subframes have been re-done. It came with (2) new doors and fenders.

Contact mlytle here via the FAQ.

Car is in Northern Virginia.

[02for2]

Yes, they can be found Rust-free.

My '76 '02 sat under a blanket in LA for 28 yrs. When I got it, a mechanic friend ran it up on his lift and his first remark was: "There's NO rust on this car!"

He was right, all the suspension components were rust and bubble-free, the fender wells were unblemished, even the mild steel exhaust had no rust whatever.

Like others have mentioned, the paint was oxidized and the interior suffered. Mechanicals suffered mostly from non-use - all rubber incl. selas, bushings, hoses, etc. were shot.

My car is a rolling restoration and will include just about everything anyone with a project car will need to do, except for metal repair. That'll only save me something like $3k over one with issues.

The point is, they're out there - harder to find, but they're there.

Cheers!

[roadhog0]

I got a minor rust car. Wheel wells are good

[TobyB]

My thought is if this car truly has zero (visible) rust, it's not likely to start rusting unless it's driven in the rain.

You have to live in a (very) dry climate for this to work.

Thing is, if anyone ever committed the sacrelige of cutting apart the

cleanest car you could ever find, there's still a pretty good chance

of finding corrosion in the seams where 2 sheets of unprotected

metal are welded together. I'm thinking specifically of the rear end of

the rockers, but there are a few places this happens.

Since BMW didn't use any rust protection in the 'trapped' seams,

they're going to rust if the relative humidity gets high enough,

OR the dew point gets low enough. Might take a hundred years to

show, but iron really hates being steel, and goes looking for oxygen

wherever it can get it...

...so if you really do find a truly rust- free shell, do your best to protect

the trapped sections and seams.

Otherwise, I personally would rather just drive. We restored one car, and

I'm trying to avoid ever doing it again...

t