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Gromitspapa

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Everything posted by Gromitspapa

  1. The upside is you get the full size image right from the get-go. Sometimes a bigger ass is a good thing... If you quote this post, you'll see how the HTML is supposed to look. Also, there's an "Img" button you can click before and after the image URL to make linking the image easy.
  2. that is a good one, been on this board for a number of years and this is the first time I've seen it, but it doesn' work for me... What firefire90 means is put together the the symbols without the "+" signs- combine everything else. If he typed the HTML without the + signs, you wouldn't be able to see it. Try this- quote someone's post with an image displayed and you'll see how it's done in the text of what you're quoting before you submit it.
  3. More links: http://www.dagsites.com/2002colors.htm http://home.earthlink.net/~jennyscott/colors.html http://bmw2002.terraweb.com.pt/cores.htm
  4. That speedhunters link doesn't look like the right color to me... More links: http://www.hbci.com/~tskwiot/2002.html http://www.dancrouchblog.com/2008/03/1970-atlantik-blue-bmw-2002-w-18k-original-miles-for-sale/ http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,0/page,viewtopic/t,263014/start,3/postdays,0/postorder,asc/highlight,/sid,7730a1dc36022cfed3bd30cf9aa79353/
  5. Here's a couple examples of Atlantik I've saved on my computer. Not my cars...
  6. Judging by her pricing, he must have told her that she's stupid.
  7. I came across what is supposed to be the components to a factory electric sunroof from a '74 2002. Is it an easy conversion? What would these parts in good condition be worth? I don't have a car yet, but maybe it wouldn't hurt to squirrel away these parts for later... Can these parts still be purchased new?
  8. I'd be nervous about that. What if the cop didn't believe you were heading to an exhibition? Not needed for 1975 models, right?
  9. Here's an example. My thought is if this car truly has zero (visible) rust, it's not likely to start rusting unless it's driven in the rain. Does that sound right? I've seen this car not meet reserve at $14K and $16K. That price range seems reasonable for a 40K mile car with original paint and zero rust. I would go for something like that at a later date. Anybody know about this car? http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11030.m43.l1123/7?euid=a2ba478d34d64ff2b7c587b2f78a93cc&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D170561263560%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AB%3AEF%3AMOTORS%3A1123
  10. What I'm trying to say is I think the smart way to get a super nice car is to buy it sorted at a discount to what it takes to get it there. I don't think there are many cars that can be properly restored that will be worth as much or more when they're done, certainly not in this price range. What I'm wondering is once there, do these things still rust or is there a way to keep them rust-free? I'd like to start with a $2-5K car, drive it and enjoy it. How crazy I go with fixing it up depends on if rust is going to play a role. If so, I'd keep it cheap and live with as little of it as possible. If not, I could "invest" more, knowing the value won't be undone by rust. My ultimate goal (and it probably wouldn't be the first car) would be (1) an '04 tii in outstanding/show quality. It would make sense to me for that to be as original as possible or easily returned to that state. Or (2) would be a '74 or '75 non-tii with in similar condition with some moderate engine mods (or a small six) and a 5-speed transmission. I'd like to have something more presentable than a beater, but I could start off with one and build up from there, assuming the rust issue could be avoided or controlled. Going that route would allow me to be creative, obviously. If I later bought a completely sorted car, it would need to be sorted in a way that I would prefer (i.e. color, mechanicals) or easily made so (i.e. wheels/tires, seats). I'm in the SF bay area, but could imagine traveling 500 miles or more for the right car.
  11. I live in CA and am thinking I'd like to get a square taillight '02 in the next few months. Can rust be avoided, or is it going to crash the party sooner or later every time? What I'd like to do (but can't afford for a long time): Buy some rig for $20-25K that's completely restored. Likely someone will have spent a bunch more than that getting it there. Seems like the smart way to go vs starting cheap and ending up with $30K in the car. My understanding is no restoration will be rust-proof unless the car isn't driven in the wet. Will just washing it get water in the wrong places? What I could do: Buy a car for $2-5K. Are there any zero-rust cars out there? If there was, it would probably have to be an original paint car to tell, right? I guess I'm trying to figure out if a high dollar car is going to get ruined down the line or not, or if I should just live with a bubble here and there on a cheapie.
  12. Which car are you looking at? The Pastel Blue '76 the guy's son won't take?
  13. Seems like a very well priced daily driver to me at $6,600. Questions I'd have: - odometer says 15,000 in listing. Did you mean 150,000? - can you estimate the mileage for the head rebuild based on the records? - picture of the new rear seat? - no structural rust. What sort of rust does it have? - do you have the original front seats? The ones in the pic through the windshield don't look OEM, though. Maybe edit "sears" to read "seats." Good luck selling it!
  14. Looks like a great deal for you, congrats! What's up with those seats?
  15. Talk to Michael at Bavarian Professionals in Berkeley. My experience with them has been limited, but always very positive. http://www.bavpros.com/
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