other Lubricants, Grease, Etc

[dasfrogger]

I'm almost to the point in my restroration that it's time to start putting everything back together. Does anyone have advice on specific purpose lubricants, greases, saftey wire, thread locker, penetrant etc etc to have on hand?

 

Maybe we could make a nice list - would be good for folks to have to stock the garage for repairs and maintenance.

 

Format:

 

Application (ex brakes, bearings, window parts) : Product to use : Where to find

 

Example

 

Loosen stuck/rusty bolts: PB Blaster : Autozone/Pep Boys, etc

Squeaky hinges : Wurth HHS-K : Goodspeed motoring

[Napes]

FWIW there are much better products than PB Blaster to use on cars.  Kano Labs "AeroKroil" and Wurth's "Rost Off" have both been shown in independent tests to be far superior to PB Blaster for loosening stuborn nuts and bolts.  But I'm glad to see you listing Wurth's HHS-K lubricant.  It's a little pricey, but works very well and is really easy to use.

 

Bob Napier

[dasfrogger]

Good to know, Thanks! I'm a big fan of the wurth stuff, but don't have as easy access to it as I used to. I'll make sure to pick up a can of rost off next order I place.

 

Anyone else have any recommendations, experiences, etc? Maybe what not to use will be almost as useful (cough WD-40 cough)

 

If we can get a list together, any idea where to put it / what to name it so it's easy for folks to search and reference?

[OriginalOwner]

 I'm a big fan of RemOil for the squeakies ......

    http://www.remington.com/en/products/accessories/gun-care/cleaning-chemicals-and-oils/rem-oil.aspx

 

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

[roadhog0]

Marvel Mystery Oil, it's just good for a lot of stuff...

[Simeon]

Copper based anti-seize grease. Coppaslip is the brand I am used to in the UK and Australia. Sure someone can chime in with the US brand.

This is great for anything subject to heat that you want to undo easily. Brake caliper bolts, exhaust bolts, studs etc. If you have exposed threads you can rub some on. Battery terminals as well.

[AceAndrew]

I think a list might not work so hot, because there's simply a lot of options and grease/oil formula's and products change over time.

 

That being said ..... as of 7/8/13 I love my Dirko sealant and Mobile1 synthetic grease.

[02fanatic]

That's true I suppose,  but personally I'd like to see a listing of differential and transmission lubricants that comply with the original specifications when these cars were new.  I know alot of owners just go Redline on everything these days, but that's really not applicable to the specs of these old cars.  Limited slip diff vs. open diff lubricants, etc.  A master listing would be very helpful to many here IMO.

I think a list might not work so hot, because there's simply a lot of options and grease/oil formula's and products change over time.

 

That being said ..... as of 7/8/13 I love my Dirko sealant and Mobile1 synthetic grease.

[jimk]

That's true I suppose,  but personally I'd like to see a listing of differential and transmission lubricants that comply with the original specifications when these cars were new.  I know alot of owners just go Redline on everything these days, but that's really not applicable to the specs of these old cars.  Limited slip diff vs. open diff lubricants, etc.  A master listing would be very helpful to many here IMO.

The 4 speeds called for SAE 80 straight mineral oil i.e. GL-1(if you are old enough to know what that is).  It can't be found.  As a substitue BMW allowed 10W040 engine oil (which is the same viscosity at operating temp.  That stuff was not used for many years because in the US there, as you know, was a horsepower glut thru the 70s and 80s.  Then came along the transaxles in the transverse engined cars and the fluid for those became known as Manual Transmission and Transaxle fluid.  It is the same service as the old GL-1 with some modern additives.  Hence OEMs sell it with a hefty price (check what GM sells theirs for if you think Redline and Amsoil is expensive).  Amsoil sells 2 kinds one MTF an 80w class and a MTG 75w-90 for the later boxes that like a bit heavier product.  So that's a rundown of my 25years in he lube business.

[BlueBarchetta]

For squeaks/penetrant, I've been using Toyota's penetrant that their techs use (still have a couple of cans leftover when I was turning wrenches for them awhile ago)... The Toyota parts dept of any dealership should have the stuff. I don't know how much it costs.. 

 

For manual transmissions, I've taken CD's advice, and used ATF-4 w/ dexron (sp?)... Although it hasn't made my 2nd gear synchro crunching disappear, it has smoothed out the 'notchy-ness' in the shifting, and goes into 2nd somewhat smoother when double-clutching... The ATF is cheap, plentiful and is everywhere.

[TobyB]

Don't use GL-5 in your transmission- it's not compatible with the synchros.

 

Don't use modern engine oil- it's not compatible with your rockers

 

Don't use WD-40- it's not compatible with paint.

 

The 'Do' list is a lot harder... simply because what worked 10 or 5 or 1 year ago may not anymore.

 

Just how it is...  that's how I learned about ZDDP and cmashafts.

 

t

[jgerock]

As far as a penetrant, Liquid Wrench works better for me than PBlaster.  

[Dabliz02]

electrical lube (like for spark plugs) works great for installing all bushings.  Helps keep rubber from squeaking as well, from my experience.

Edited July 9, 2013 by Dabliz02