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02Pilot

Solex
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Everything posted by 02Pilot

  1. Hmmm, come to think of it, I also had a Pertronix module start to crap out similarly (serves me right for trying to use technology unnecessarily - nothing wrong with points). As the saying goes, most fuel problems are ignition problems.
  2. I've had DCOEs ice up on cool, humid days, but if you're getting it from the start, that's not what's happening here (I wasn't clear on when you felt this - from the off, or after driving for a while).
  3. I can vouch for the propensity of the more modern chassis to driveshaft vibration. I spent the last six months chasing vibrations in my E82 128i. After two new driveshafts I've gotten to the point where it's good up to ~75mph, then it starts to become noticeable, and increases with road speed from there. Everything from the flywheel to the axles (inclusive) has been replaced, with the sole exception of the transmission. I may just get under there again and try the hose clamp trick, just to see if it makes a difference.
  4. I was just in Millerton about three hours ago - rode my bike up. Didn't see the 1502, but did catch a yellow Saab Sonnet passing through.
  5. Before you put them on, check to see how they're jetted and what throats are in them. With stock pistons and a mild cam you're going to want relatively small throats to keep the intake charge velocity up, or it will fall on its face when you open the throttle at low RPM.
  6. No sign of coolant in the cylinders? Twisting from a seizing event means it must have locked up hard at high RPM. Maybe a missed shift (went 3-2 instead of 3-4) and overreved? Based on the build as you describe it, I doubt it saw a lot of time at lower engine speeds. Did the crank survive?
  7. Never on an M10, and never happened to one of my engines, but I've seen a few bent rods out of M5x-series engines that hydrolocked. In what axis did the rods in your engine bend/twist?
  8. FYI, Tire Rack has both B6 and B8 strut inserts in stock (shocks are backordered). I ordered and received mine in less than a week.
  9. The original kit is nice if all you care about is originality, but if you actually want to have a better chance of fixing things on the road you'll want a larger tool kit. The factory tools are in there, if slightly obscured. In addition to what's more or less visible, there's a 3/8" ratchet and socket set in there as well.
  10. Just throw the tools in an Evaporust bath for a couple days and they'll be vastly improved.
  11. Missed that somewhere along the way. Still, "slightly bent" seems less than would give necessary clearance to free a fully locked cap from the valve cover. A photo from the OP would help, if only to determine why that was the point of least resistance at the time of the earth-shattering kaboom.
  12. Is it possible that the oil cap was in place but not fastened? If it weren't, it would certainly be the point of least resistance. Can the OP describe the condition of the cap, specifically the locking tangs? If it was locked in place, they would have to be severely bent at a minimum.
  13. It's not really any more problematic than any other modern BMW engine. You just have to be aware of the weak points and address them. I ran mine out to 200k, and buddy took it up over 225k before he sold it. That said, just rebuild your M10 and dial back the boost. Or better yet, build a NA screamer.
  14. If it were me, at a minimum I'd replace every seal, including the valve guide seals and the VANOS seals, starter, lower coolant tubes (along the block under the intake), CCV system, and clutch no matter what. Age is a factor as well as mileage, and BMW rubber seals are not known for their longevity. As to the rings, well, as noted a leakdown test might help you decide whether it's worth the cost and effort. They don't wear out, they break, so it's not just a matter of mileage. Again, the M54 would not be my first choice. Frankly, I'm not a fan of engine swaps in these cars period, but that's just me. No matter what you do with the M54, just be aware of its weaknesses.
  15. You don't. In the course of developing a mod/hack for the oil consumption issue, I pulled mine at least half a dozen times. I got to where I could do it by feel in 45 minutes. Air filter housing and elbow, junction box, throttle body, and out. It's a lousy system, though at least they came up with an updated the dipstick guide tube to one that doesn't instantly clog the CCV drain with emulsion, letting it back up into the valve. If you run a search for "02Pilot mod" you'll find the CCV hack I came up with. Started in a thread on Bimmerforums, but it's repeated elsewhere.
  16. M54 would not be my first choice for a few reasons, but since you have it already I assume that's what you're going to use. I strongly suggest you tear the engine down and replace the rings before you install it. The M54 uses low-tension rings which are problematic and can lead to very significant oil consumption. I believe the fix is to use M52 rings, but you should look further into it before proceeding. Be careful with the head bolts, which like to break off in the aluminum block. If head bolt threads are damaged a Time-Sert is the only thing that works to repair the hole. Once you've got it apart, you're basically doing a full rebuild, but you don't want to go to the trouble of having the thing pouring blue smoke once you start it up. If you decide not to do any of this, I can at least point to you a simple mod I developed that will mitigate the oil consumption.
  17. Pull the crankcase vent line off the valve cover before you proceed (assuming you've replaced the oil filler cap). After that, I'll add my vote for crank it over and see what happens. If something significant broke you'll know quickly.
  18. A chain is only as good as its weakest link. By rebuilding the cylinder head you improved sealing of the combustion chamber, and thus increased vacuum therein under closed throttle conditions. The increased vacuum will exacerbate any leakage past the rings due to the pressure differential between the crankcase and the combustion chamber under deceleration. If you can increase crankcase vacuum by introducing a post-throttle plate vacuum source (not so easy on the carbureted M10), you will reduce your oil consumption.
  19. Graham at Bimmers Only, Bedford Hills, NY. Been dealing with 02s for more than the 25 years since I bought my first one from him.
  20. I am certainly to blame for offending Finnish sensibilities. I've heard both Swedish and Scandinavian used in this context; I tend to default to the shorter because I'm fundamentally lazy.
  21. There are probably better examples, but watch the Saab 96 at 6:36 in this video to see an instance of the Swedish flick I mentioned, the whole point of which is to unsettle the rear end before turning in. Note how the car rolls a bit, and the rapid back-and-forth of the front wheels before entering the corner.
  22. I'm no expert, but I've been fooling around with a Saab 900 for the last year or so, and I've started to wrap my head around going quickly in it. In a nutshell, in FWD you steer the rear axle with the brakes. With RWD you're able to balance with the throttle in the corner to get the car pointed; with FWD, it's more about balancing with the brakes while using the throttle to pull the car through. For me, it usually boils down to pitching the car in to get the rear end moving (the Swedish flick is a real thing), getting into the throttle early, and hauling the car through (with left foot or handbrake as necessary, surface-dependent). It's very different than my autox experience in BMWs, but it can be quite entertaining, especially on loose surfaces.
  23. Oh, I know. I've been driving that road several times a week for more decades than I care to relate. Trooper barracks located right near the road in several places make it easy for them.
  24. Spotted a nice burgundy squarelight on the southbound Taconic just north of Rt.82. Whoever it was honked and waved at me - I was in my 900S. Was it one you you guys?
  25. Dorman 03411: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-03411-Exhaust-Manifold-Stud/dp/B0063RHGFG
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