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MildSeven

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Everything posted by MildSeven

  1. hey guys... how far from the exhaust manifold should I mount the O2 bung?
  2. the rust removal never ends.

  3. I was hoping to get a break on the $20 shipping from the site to Canada.
  4. What if we live in Canada? edit: sent email edit2: email bounced back... inbox full
  5. Day 11 to 13 and a little beyond (~3 days total work) – Getting some welding and other things done (steering box, carbs, tail lights) - March 28th - April 24th, 2015 Well, things are starting to feel really dragged-on, I want to get the car out and to paint but there’s not much I can do, I can’t weld. I figured while I’m waiting for someone to come help with welding, I would start working on some things which I’d like to tackle before reassembling the car. I’m really good at “while I’m here, might as well.” I’m also good at starting too many things at the same time... probably not a good thing. You’ll see what I mean as items below were worked on simultaneously, not to mention I’m also plastering the basement drywall. Steering Box Refresh: I started cleaning the steering box to refresh it with some new seals, gaskets & bolts, plus a new urethane coupler (got the kit from Ireland Engineering). I don’t think this was really necessary but might as well, right? - Unfortunately I forgot to take a before photo with all the grease and grime on it. Cleaned it by hand with a toothbrush and some citrus degreaser, came out pretty clean. - Disassembled it and soaked the parts overnight (heavy degreaser) - Painted with grey engine enamel and reassembled with urethane coupler. - It’s almost ready to be installed, just need gear oil. I had bought some from Canadian tire (75w 90), I thought it might be too thin but was lazy and took the chance. Turns out my assumption was (unfortunately) correct. It is too thin and it leaked through the seals L, I drained it will buy some thicker stuff when I can find it. Front Sub frame: I disassembled the front sub frame, the plan is to “por15” it, install some urethane bushings and a beefier sway bar (22mm). - It was really grimy, I disassembled it - Started to clean it but, ran out of degrease. To be continued... Next steps: Removing stock bushings, por 15’ing, installing new urethane bushings + sway bar, reassembly. Cluster: When I bought the car it came with 2 clusters, the original “wood grain” and an older version “silver dollar”. I had previously disassembled the extra (original) cluster because I planned on using this one instead of the “silver dollar” cluster which was installed in the car. The problems are, the original cluster has this ugly wood grain finish and the speedometer/odometer doesn’t seem to work (based on my assessment during disassembly). The odometer is an easy fix but the speedometer isn’t and it was in mph anyway. I’m currently searching for a kph speedometer to put in the cluster. - Before look: - I painted the backside of the cluster white to help better reflect the light from the bulbs on the gauges at night. - I removed the wood gain, clip on face and sanded away the “grains.” I painted it matt black with a satin clear coat. Unfortunately when re-clipping it on the cluster, the clear coat cracked in a few spots. I tried wet-sanding it to see if it would improve, it did not L. - I left the face clipped on and masked off everything else for another round of painting. To be continued... Next steps: finding a kph speedometer, reassembly Passenger Floor pan, welding: Kosta came by on April 12th. He welded in a couple of patches on the donor floor pan (which I had bought and discovered it too had a couple of holes). He spot welded it in place before having to leave. To be continued... Next steps: don't get me started on this Taillights: My tail lights are not very bright (as pointed out by a friend who was following me on the highway last summer). I figured I could do a few things to make them brighter. - I disassembled the tail lights and sprayed the inner assembly with a metallic paint. I also finished them with a gloss clear coat for more reflective POWER but after doing so I noticed there was a chemical reaction and the metallic finish faded and also ran (leaked) a little. I had to restart them and won’t put a gloss clear coat. - I buffed the tail light lenses, the photo doesn’t do the difference justice. I’m happy about the outcome though, they look new. To be continued... Next steps: tail light gasket + reassembly. I think I might also try inserting a slightly tinted piece of plexiglass behind the clear reverse lens to see what it would look like with a little ‘smoke’. Weber Carburetor cleaning: I bought the car with dual Weber DCOE 45s. This is my first carbureted car so there’s a lot to learn. I had loosely cleaned the exterior of the carbs while they were in the car last summer because they were pretty ugly. Now that they’re off the motor I figured I’d take them apart and do a nice cleaning. - Depending on the part it would either go straight for the Carb cleaner spray and bath or make a stop at the 'degreaser station’. - I noted down all the specs of the 2 carburetors and reassembled them 1 by 1. Found a couple of parts which were damaged or inconsistent, I will replace them. - I cleaned the intake manifold and mocked up how they would mount with the new “bar” throttle linkage... which I find sexier. - I emailed Redline and received a response from Bud Pauge he's very knowledgeable and super helpful, he's definitely making my life easier. Definitely contact Redline for all your carburetor needs. To be continued... Next steps: finding and replacing a couple of damaged parts. Tap the intake manifold to support the linkage.
  6. thanks for the response.. kinda figured would be difficult. GL with sales.
  7. how much shipping to Montreal (h9s 2s4) for the gutter trim?
  8. Day 9 (continued) - Repairing driver side floor pan (March 20th, 2015) Kosta and Ernest showed up as I was finishing the pans, they gave me a hand to push the shell back in to the previously warm garage. Before the welder arrived (as a precaution), we decided to reinforce the shell by welding temporary bars between the A & B pillars. We also tried our hands at repairing a patch behind the driver seat, I think it went pretty well given our lack of experience and Mastercraft welder. Ernest loves yelling “EASY, EASY, EASY!” while we pound sheet metal to shape. Ernest hooked us up with a welder, his wife’s cousin Ardo (who owns his own shop http://www.avfabrication.com/, they do some crazy shit there), he agreed to come help us out with a house call. As you’d expect by the name AV Fabrication specializes in fabrication, custom parts, headers/downpipes/exhaust and some freakin’ crazy builds/setups. His "uncle" used to own a body shop so he brought him along for his bodywork wisdom. Ardo gave us some directives on what to cut and strip from the driver’s floor pan, while he and Kosta prepared the donor floor pan for (non-sexual) insertion. Side note: Pete (a former Volkswagen club, buddy) dropped by at the same time that they arrived and there was a lot of confusion going on so I didn’t get to chat with him too much. However, he did compliment me on my retarded wooden dolly though 1 Greek working, 3 Armenian inspectors Before: After: Just passed 10:30pm we decided to call it a night, Ardo gave me some instruction on how to prep the passenger donor floor pan, so it would be ready for his next visit. I took care of that over Saturday and Sunday, while I was working in front on Saturday a metal collector drove by and luckily the metal sparks caught his eye, I managed to unload all the scrap pieces so that worked out well. Day 10 (a few hours) - Prepared Passenger side floor pan for welding. March 27, 2015 Last week I prepared the passenger donor floor pan for (sexual) insertion, I marked the cut-out on the floor and dropped it off at AV Fab (to patch up the holes on it)... Kosta cut out the pan and I grinded all around it so it’s ready for Ardo’s work (Ernest choked at the last minute). I'm a little worried we may have cut too much and Ardo won't be happy with us. Before I got to grinding the floor pan (and while Kosta was cutting)...I was cleaning up the area behind the front fenders for some Por15. I discovered a few more unpleasant surprises (as mentioned in "Minor Rust", everything looked sound but let me tell you, bondo is a deceiving bitch. On Saturday I cleaned up some parts for Por15’ing at a later date. Pedal box, pedals, brake booster, brake booster bracket, exhaust/gas tank heat shield things are feeling very long Current state:
  9. Disassembling & discovering naughty secrets.

  10. About 2 months ago my buddy Kosta and I started the disassembly, Ernest was conveniently on his “honeymoon” in Asia. Day 1 Compression Test + prepping the Engine/sub-frame for removal (January 24th) I wanted to do a compression test before removing the motor to know where I stood with it but I f’ed that up because didn’t know you had to have the throttle fully open while cranking. I realized this after adding oil to do the "wet" part. Everything went pretty smoothly no bad surprises aside from a few unconnected wires/connectors, which i believe were mostly contributed to the car being previously de-smog'ed. Day 2 Engine/sub-frame removal + Fuel Tank removal (January 31st) We jacked the car up nice and high in the front and dropped the subframe with motor and tranny (on a jack), piece of cake. Next we were going to mount the engine stand bracket to the motor but the bolts we had were not long enough. We took to the trunk instead removing the gas tank and getting a little high in the process. Day 3 Getting the Engine the engine stand without an engine hoist, remove other items from the Engine bay (Feb 8th) Being the cheap bastard that I am, I wasn't about to rent an engine hoist to be able to mount the motor to the motor stand. We made a temporary contraption to roll the motor up a ramp and jack it up the extra few inches. It went surprisingly smooth, we did good. We started cleaning up some of the leftover items in the engine bay brake booster, mastercylinder, brake lines, wiring...etc Day 4 Removing engine bay wiring + Starting on stripping the interior (February 15th) Ernest was supposed to finally show-up freshly back from vacation but made up a last second excuse, it was very hurtful. Kosta and I made some good progress on the interior, unfortunately there were a few nasty surprises hiding under the carpet. The driver side floor was worse than anticipated with a lot of rust/rot. The passenger side had a few holes along the transmission tunnel and a huge patch which was glued and screwed in, a little unsettling. This prompted me to search for some used floor pans which included part of the transmission tunnel (and sides), the new aftermarket floor pans which are sold are really only the flat part of the floor, so my transmission tunnel issues would still be visible. Day 5 (half day) Continuing the interior stripping, dash removal + other trim removal (February 21st) This was Ernest's first day on the job. After we finished breakfast we took to the garage to get the dash out, Ernest started work in the trunk removing tails/trim, etc. #mimosamechanics The dash was a pain in the ass, and removing the heat/blower box was probably the most time consuming single item of the teardown. Day 6 Removing remaining wires + removing windows + removing trims (February 27th) It's amazing how simple these cars are put together. While I documented and removed the remaining wires from the wire harness, Kosta and Ernest were working hard removing the driver/passenger windows/vent windows plus their regulators. The 1st one proved to be difficult but they learnt a few things for the other side. Following that we took to removing the trim, then called it a night. I must say, when we started, I wasn't expecting all this. I figured I would get the floor fixed, remove the motor and remove the exterior trim but once we started we just kept going because at every step there's only a few more things to do, and we keep saying "as long as we're here might as well..." ...to be continued. Friday evening we put in a few more hours... Ernest was supposed to show up but choked at the last minute (again). He's 2 for 4, said he show up 4 times, actually showed up 2 times. Kosta is 7 for 7 Generally, Friday nights are reserved for "Boys Nite," unfortunately “the "boys" include a couple of guys who don't really care about working on my car (or any car for that matter), including my brother. We started at 5pm'ish my brother's primary objective was to go for a bite, so at 6:30pm he showed up and started chirping about what are we going to eat, I'm hungry... bla bla bla. The extent of his help was to bag & tag 4x bolts and like 2x nuts, while wearing a shirt, pants and having a beer. At 7:45ish Tony showed up, so we had 2 spectators having a beer waiting on us. The pressure to close up shop and go to Village Grecque (Greek Village) was strong. At 9pm I was eating a boner pita, um, I mean doner pita. Day 7 (half day) - Removed fenders, wiper motor, hood latch (bar), rear bumper and started removing rear sub-frame. (March 6th, 2014) After struggling with the parking brake, we called it a night at 8:30ish. I was told the front fenders had been replaced in 2006, so I didn’t expect them to be in bad condition, for once I was right. On Saturday after soccer I tried figure out how to remove the parking brake cables from the rear-drums. Success, I got those mf’ers out. (FYI, the diff is red because I removed and re-sealed it last summer... I had some red spray paint so gave it a coat) Then on Sunday I re-removed the front sub-frame, originally I planned on sending it off to paint as a “rolling-chassis” but now I think I going to just make a crappy rolling stand. I did a little bit of work on a couple of evenings, building a "dolly" out of wood (because I don't know any better) for the frame to wheel it around. On Saturday, after soccer I took a few hours removing the soundproofing on the back seat/floor, it's tar with a cardboard-like cover. People recommended using dry-ice (or the harder route a heat gun). I figured since the back seat was at an angle dry-ice wouldn't be able to "sit on it," I gave it a go with the heat gun. It went well after 2.5 hours I had all the rear soundproofing removed. The section (driver rear shock) where you can still see "black" is because the previous owner must have tried to spay the rust with black paint. Day 8 (half day), Doors + Trunk removal and removal of a few stupid things we missed (March 15) For the first time Kosta choked, so it was Ernest and I. Following a brief yet intense make-out session we started by removing the doors, then the trunk. Fun things first, right. We then had a few little stupid things to take care of, the seat rail adjusters which were super rusted in and a crazy large patch which was screwed and glued to the passenger floor pan, some really crappy repair by a previous owner. Ernest decided he wanted to make that patch his bitch, an hour of heat gun, WD40, a crowbar and a lot of torque (+ a coffee), it was out and in the snow, receiving an Armenian drop-kick. The floor pan sound proofing uses a much thicker tar and the heat gun did not do much to help removing it, so while Ernest worked on the patch, I brought my 2 donor floor pans outside to see if Montreal weather would have a similar effect as the dry-ice. It did, I was able to chisel away all the tar soundproofing. Unfortunately the removal of the sound proofing made me discover the passenger floor pan had some rust holes in it.I contacted seller for partial refund. ...so this is what she looks like now following Sunday's work. On Friday night, Ernest & Kosta are coming over we're going to start prepping for the welder, who should also make an appearance Friday night (if we're lucky). It's been fun trying to find a welder but seems Ernest has come through. TBC....
  11. Is the 3rd one blue or black? Do you have any other photos of the 5th one? I thikn I like the one which is sold already though
  12. Let me just give my hand brake a wiggle... and I'll send over the cash.
  13. Disassembling in progress

  14. I thought I had read that it wasn't reliable though...as in they blow engines quickly.
  15. MildSeven

    More Photos

    I presume, love has been made many times in that back seat
  16. I've looked around as well and the Ireland Engineering product is the most appealing because of the plastic factor. I just can't decide if I want the turbo flares or not? I like the way they look on white, black, silver and maybe other colors but on red, i think i prefer the skinny fenders. TBD, soon hopefully. I did pull my fenders a little to accommodate the BBS RMs... had i put flares... no issues.
  17. if you decide to go the "new route" http://store.blackforestindustries.com/wheelbarrels.html
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