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zinz

Alpina
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Everything posted by zinz

  1. I'm available most every evening! Mike and I had a beer or two last Friday here in Cedar Park. Text me if something comes together. Michael has my number
  2. I resoldered the fuse-able link on mine, but it wouldn't stay running... So, I used only the tiniest drops of PB Blaster on the gear shafts (sprayed some PB Blaster in a dish, then used the red straw by itself to dab the lube on each shaft. The lube will go up the straw through capillary action) Then used some canned air and dried it all out. PRESTO... the clock ticked to life! Been running beautifully ever since. If you can't get it to work, call these guys...www.clockwks.com I almost sent mine to him, prior to cleaning. He says he's fixed 1000s of them...
  3. If my car is "very fun" then Ray's car is a maniacal beast. I will have a built, 2.5 liter S14 someday...wicked, wicked power
  4. I thought I'd better finalize this thread... My setup is running VERY well now. Idles beautifully at 950-1000rpm, no hesitation from idle, through progression, to redline. There is only the tiniest dead-spot at 3400rpm when driving steady-state. It's practically imperceptible...except to the OCD driver So what fixed my problems? Several gremlins worked in tandem against me, but they have been exorcised. Firstly, getting the fuel level finely adjusted helped a lot. I was impressed how even an 1/8 of a turn would make a notable difference. Of course this adjustment must be duplicated from one carb to another. Secondly, ignition... During my problem I was using an original, un-rebuilt, Ti distributer with points. I went to a Hot Spark igniter and it helped, but not entirely. Then... I put in an Ireland Tii dizzy I had laying around, with the same Hot Spark igniter. All my poor idling and low speed stumble vanished.... obviously, the old Ti dizzy had loose springs and was not advancing properly (just as Lars had pointed out!) LASTLY... out of left field... my brake booster had apparently been slowly failing and was causing a small vacuum leak during braking (remember the original problem?? stumbling after acceleration...during braking?) Yep, it would idle just fine when the brake wasn't applied, but step on the brake and it would flutter. When I replaced the booster two weeks ago after it failed completely, the idle was PERFECT. Sooooo... I now have a properly advancing distributer (albeit for Tii specs), a well sealed vacuum system and properly adjusted fuel levels, resulting in a car that starts with just a touch of the key, idles calmly and ROARS thru the midrange....just ask anyone who behind me during the drives at Mid America last weekend Yep, this car is running very well, indeed. Thanks to everyone who contributed advice to solve my problems! Ed Z
  5. I installed the same flywheel from Miller's Mule last month. Cut areas were nicely radiused and it weighed 14 lbs. Great folks to work with, as well. I know one thing, you better go easy on the go-fast pedal when it starts revving up! It was a very noticeable difference in how this engine accelerates, compared to the stock flywheel. I put in a 3.91 LSD at the same time I swapped the 5 speed and 1st gear launches will get into redline in a BIG HURRY. I've had to learn to feather that right foot a bit at WOT. Heel-toe blips to downshift are even easier now, though.
  6. That Impala was equipped with the optional "Pitch and Lean" suspension... you can find variants of that setup in most American cars of the era...
  7. I'll have to research this for sure. Thanks for the tip!
  8. I can't stop thinking about this tool kit and how to make one for myself. It's just too cool.
  9. I wish I had information more specific to the 123 Ignition system... I'm anxious to hear how yours works out. Advance curves should be specific to your particular engine build. You must take into account any modifications made to the engine (different cam, header, your new carbs, the crappy fuel that we must suffer with...) All these things weigh into how the ignition should be advanced for your engine. Now, right now, I'm running 40DDHs and a Tii dizzy with a Hot Spark igniter and it idles beautifully and pulls hard to redline. Timing is set to about 25 degrees at 2300rpms..or thereabouts (if I remember correctly) I tried using an original Bosch dizzy from a Ti, but determined it really needs to be rebuilt. When I put the newer Tii dizzy in, alllll my hesitation and poor idling went away. When funds are available, I will either have that original Bosch unit rebuilt with a proper curve for my engine setup or go to a crank-fired system for the most accurate timing. This thread was very helpful to me when I was chasing my timing problems. The 2nd page has all the advance curves plotted, so you can see how different the Tii is from the Ti. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/141041-dcoe-advance-ignition/ Good luck! I think you are well on you way to a well-running engine. Please let us know what curve you end up with, I know I will be very interested to see it! ED Z
  10. LOVED your car!!!! Who would know it was dragon slayer??? Perfect sleeper. Glad y'all made it home safely. So glad I got to meet you!
  11. These are no secrets, but very nice when they are empty. The 3 Twisted Sisters in the western Hill Country of central Texas... Gorgeous in the Fall. But you should really run it during the off-season to avoid the Harley riders that congest everything. Watch for deer. Or Lime Creek Road if you are near Austin...again, can be congested except early in the mornings. Newly repaved, beautiful, tight turns with a couple of 1st gear switchbacks and one closing-radius left-hander (going uphill) that is pure evil if you don't know it. Lots of off-course incidents at that one.
  12. If Ray were to go out to the garage right now, he would find that the car is probably still vibrating...
  13. HA! Thanks, Skip! That means a lot to me! I was hoping to take you out for a drive in it...maybe next year. I've been working hard to make keep the original spirit of the Ti and not add too many modern pieces. It running strong probably has a lot to do with the 292 cam, header, some porting and polishing, good ignition and lots of tweaking. I am very happy with how it performs now. I can now move on to paint and body and rear suspension for the Money Pit.
  14. You are correct, Lars! I removed the old Ti distributer and replaced the burned out igniter in the Ireland dizzy with a Hot Spark unit. All of my idle and low-end stumbling/poor performance went away. The engine runs BEAUTIFULLY now. The engine starts with just a touch of the key and idles so well. Instant response at low-end and pulls hard through the progression circuit and up to redline. I drove almost 1500 miles this weekend going to the Mid America Fest. I was routinely marking 24.9 mpg driving 75-85 mph! (with a 5 speed and 3.91 diff) I'd say that is pretty darn good for side drafts! Unfortunately, the IE dizzy spews oil out the top of the flange housing, despite a new O-ring. Firewall is coated with oil and it drips all down onto my header and smokes like crazy... very nice. I'll probably send my original Ti distributer out to be rebuilt with a proper curve for my carbs and solve all my problems. Ed Z
  15. JUMPIN' JACKRABBITS, BRANDON !!!! yikes... hope you got out ok!
  16. Goodness... that is heartbreaking news about your friend Kieth, Skip. I'm glad no one was hurt, but heartbreaking, nonetheless.
  17. This was my first Mid America and was blown away... great folks, great cars, and incredible roads. Can't wait for next year! Thanks to everyone who spoke with me about my car and gave me tips and leads to take it to the next level. I thought my car was pretty sorted out, but after seeing soooo many nice cars, it seems I have a little more work in front of me Apparently, there was some kind of drive-by, shoot out late Saturday nite... no one was injured but Ray's car took a broadside strafe. Unfortunately, Ray was not in the car at the time... Getting a ride in this 235hp beast was...eye-opening/sick/ridiculous/unreal...HOLY MACKEREL, I GOTTA HAVE ONE! (except, I'm in the same boat with Mr. Fahuna...I wouldn't know how to use the "confuser" to tune it) I'll stick with the Solexes for now... Thanks again to everyone involved. It was a fantastic event. I'm glad to hear the early reports that the tornados missed our '02 family members in the Arkansas area. Ed Z
  18. Hey Jerry, These carbs are a puzzle...both are CLEARLY stamped, DDHT; however, after Jurgen Ruddies and Lars hammered it into my head, they are DDHs. Somehow, somewhere along the way, someone was able to Frankenstein them. You wouldn't know it from looking, because they are not cobbled together. I have been assuming, that they are DDH carbs built on DDHT bodies from the factory... I really have no other explanation. Either way, I believe they are aluminum and not zinc (not really sure to be honest) They polish like aluminum. I bought them from Conner Elkington with manifolds and velocity stacks and they were in pretty good shape and almost entirely complete. I bought the rebuild kits off eBay (they shipped out of Germany) but the kit didn't include the starter disc diaphragms... I had them specially made by Vintage Werks out of Idaho.(specialize in old VWs) The starter discs now work beautifully. Jetting when I got them was straight out of the Alpina and BMW playbooks: http://www.02-club.de/technik/solex.htm 40mm choke 110 main (for the European smog testing) 90 air corrector 40/60 pilot jet This jetting was lean across the board. Idle adjustment screws were completely out (at least 3 1/2 - 4 turns) and still it lean-popped like crazy. Progression circuit had a horrible stumble, as well. Mid range was okay, but ran out of steam about 5800rpm and it leaned out (unfortunately I can not find a different air corrector) Finding Main Jets was easy thru the Alfa guy on eBay; however, his air correctors and pilot jets were incorrect and wouldn't fit. I went to a 120 main and that improved WOT, but not completely. FINALLY, I found Ruddies-Berlin and they had just about all the jets and parts I needed. http://www.ruddies-berlin.de/40DDH.htm For those who verstehen nicht so gut, Google Translate is your friend here... They only take wire transfers, which is kind of a PITA, but they had the parts I couldn't find anywhere else. Using Google-Translate, Jurgen and I were able to sort out my tune and he just sent the jets to me with an invoice...Who does THAT anymore?? He was a huge help. The current jetting is: 130 Mains 90 Air Correctors ( can't find a bigger one) 55/90 Pilot Jets (idle screws out about 2 1/2 turns with just a wee-bit of idle speed screw input) I run a Tii dizzy with a Hot Spark igniter and red coil along with a 85amp alternator. Timing is 25 degrees at about 2300...or thereabouts. I was running an original Ti dizzy, but I came to realize it needs to be rebuilt as it was advancing waaaayyy too soon. I have been struggling with a few vacuum leaks, most notably was a failing brake booster that was driving me nuts at stop lights and the idle would go to hell... I recently replaced that booster and now she idles like a dream. Power is now strong from idle, smooth thru progression circuit and hell-for-leather to redline. It really roars from about 3500-5800. ...such a beautiful sound A few last thoughts about these carbs...they seem to me to be the best of all worlds. The mains are accessible from the top (jet changes happen in mere minutes) They have vacuum ports for each venturi, so attaching a synch device like a Carb Tune is gravy... Synching them has been the easiest part of tuning them! Fuel level is easily adjusted from the top as well by screwing in, or out, the fuel line input (needle valve). This adjustment has solved most of my lean-out at WOT at max rpms. This setting is only takes 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time to make a noticeable difference. Too rich and it bogs after deceleration, too lean and it stumbles at the high end. Having a WBO2 sensor would help tremendously, but I have had to go thru this using old school techniques of plug color and power testing. Lastly, I have some throttle shaft vacuum leaks and will likely send them out to be re-bushed at some point... but not until it becomes a huge PITA. Right now I have glopped some axle grease on the shafts and it seems to really help! It ain't pretty, but it works for now Feel free to send me an email if you wanna talk more about them!
  19. Jim, You are awesome!!! Guess what I JUST now completed? Installing my re-soldered, junkyard-find, Tii clock!!! I must give credit to Ray Koke for pointing me to this clock (it was mis-listed on eBay and Ray "gave" it to me) as luck would have it, the car was in a junkyard near me and I was able to find the wiring harness and other goodies. It was not a Tii, though. Just had the clock... Been super nervous about cutting the dash, but you can easily feel those indentions from the backside ( I can easily reach up behind my center console). Just took a very sharp exacto knife and carefully started from the center and made the hole a little bigger and a little bigger, till the clock fit snugly. Plugged everything in annnnndd...wait for it....CLUNK...tick, tick, tick, tick, tick... I have the stupidest grin on my face right now. What a joy to hear this clock running!! Here's some pics...
  20. Thanks, y'all, I am very wound up about my car and can't wait to show it off at Mid Am. It's not quite as clean as pics make it out to be, but sooooon, she'll have a proper paint job. Right now it's Manila over Sahara and is a good 10-footer... I found a friend with a paint booth and the skills, so hopefully, this summer we'll strip it, fix it and spray it. I never put it in the stance thread, but it's pretty easy to replicate. 15x6" Panasports with 195/50 Yokohama S Drives (just ditched the 205/50s in the rear) Rear fenders rolled ( and still the 205/50s rubbed a bit)probably coulda rolled them a little more for clearance... and I may go back to the 205 at some point. Stock springs are cut about 1/2- 2/3 coil ( just cut a 1/4 coil at a time till you like it) Rears have 3 dot spacers. Bilstein Sports all around ST sway bar in front with all new rubber bushings (really need the rear ST bar....again, soooooon ) It rides firm but not harsh. The new tires really improved the ride quality. I had some very worn out BFG Super Sports. It is very well behaved now. Here's a good stance pic from last year before the Ti cloning started If you were wondering... Engine stats: 292 grind long tube header Freshly rebuilt Solex 40DDH carbs with UNI filters (Manifolds and ports were polished) Stock, Ti 90 degree mechanical fuel pump (works great) Stock, Ti linkage ( very smooth and a light return spring) Tii distributer with Hot Spark igniter and Red coil ( had an original Ti dizzy, but need to get it rebuilt, as the springs are sloppy) Lightened flywheel from Miller's Mule Machine in Katy, Texas It runs great, quietly idles at 900 rpm all day and roars when it's pulling hard thru the midrange. TONS of torque.
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