zinz

I'm just getting back to this thread. Lars is correct about my linkage being a repro Ti unit. It is extremely smooth and I am able to use a very light return spring. It was dead simple to install and set up. I had to install a new throttle pivot (roller bearing) towards the center of the firewall and reshape the stock throttle rod slightly in order for it to not rub the bell housing. All that was easy. The pedal is very light and smooth (compared to the clunky Weber 32/36 I removed) and heel-toe throttle blips for double clutching are effortless. I'm interested in checking my original Ti dizzy after reading Lars' advice that it may be advancing at very low rpms and interfering with my idle adjustments. Hmmmmm.

I bought the parts from Daniel Stern for the full relay kit for headlights. And by parts, I mean, it's a bag of parts. No instructions, no wire (he says to source it locally). He has a general wiring diagram on his website. Fortunately, a local '02 guy had the Susquehanna harness in his garage. I was able to borrow and copy it at my workbench. It took me a few hours, but all my joints were soldered and the Susquehanna kit was only crimped. Stern also sold me the Hella wiring kit just for the driving lights. It was extremely simple. Follow the FAQ threads for using the dummy/rear window defroster switch. For ease of installation, I would go with Susquehanna's harness. If you are good with building a wiring harness from scratch, Daniel Stern's kit is less money. For driving lights only, get the Hella kit. ...also... When Searching FAQ, select the Google function and you might have better results. Nice looking car, BTW. If you are looking for more of a vintage pair of lights, id suggest searching eBay for vintage Hellas. Usually several decent sets for $75-$150 +. I swapped my modern Hellas for period correct ones... Good luck! Ed Z

Somebody find a tall tree and short rope... Go to #3 on the list http://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/Articles/2014/03/03/Boomer-vs-Gen-X The lynch mob will be gathering at the town square at high noon... coffee and doughnuts will be served.

I'd like to direct the jury's attention to Mr Lytle's original comment... Your Honor, I believe the witness has provided enough self incriminating evidence... the prosecution rests. Guilty of budget busting. Perhaps a job in the legislature is suited to you, Ray? hahahaha...

Nice write up on Austin local, Terry Sather, with pics of some classic BMWs http://www.austinmotorscene.com/bmws-austin-and-terry-sayther-just-go-together/ Lots of good cars in the blog's archives as well

I'm glad to see such good info so quickly! That's a great write up on the Miller's Mule Blog. I visited his site and missed this info...duh. He's only a couple hours away; hopefully he's not too backed up and can get to my flywheel without too much delay. Price is right, too... Marshal's comments... hilarious. Ray's already telling me to buy the most expensive tires on the planet... He'll have me ordering Wildwood brakes for all 4 corners, next...and of course... a 4.10... To be honest, Ray was instrumental in helping me find a good car. If not for him nitpicking every CL ad I sent him, I would certainly not have the nice ride I have now.

I'm diving off into a 5 speed swap and the venerable Mr. Koke suggested I lighten my flywheel, since I'll be right there anyways. (he's always good at suggesting expensive upgrades to my projects) I've searched the archives and found some good info and think it would suit my engine well. In the interest of time, I'd like to have my local machine shop perform the work (saves on expensive shipping out west, too) I'm not interested in a $500 aluminum flywheel at this time. PO changed the engine, so I'm not exactly sure yet which clutch size is on this flywheel. Can anyone provide some machining specs I can provide my shop to lighten my flywheel? Many thanks, EdZ

Lars, You are a treasure trove of information... I am very thankful for all this information. Both you and Juergen Ruddies said the same thing about my carbs not being DDHTs... but they are most clearly marked DDHT. Drawings on the Ruddies site show this carb with the starter disk on the top. I will try to absorb all this new information. The carbs are running fairly well and I found that adjusting float level makes a noted difference. I have been playing with several adjustments. The tune is very close. A wide band O2 sensor would very certainly help. My timing is set at 25 degrees at 2200 right now. This gives good power and decent idle. Let me chew on this new info and I'll get back to you with another update. Thanks again for all the original tech data!! Ed Z

+1 on the 129 designation for the Ti dizzy Runs great ok at 25 degrees @ 2200rpm with dual Solex 40DDHTs (edit... this wasn't nearly enough advance... finally ended up with best running using Tii dizzy of 33 degree at 2000 rpm. Any less advance and the engine ran poorly) edit of the edit... I ditched the IE Tii mechanical advance-only dizzy. Never could get my car to cruise well or return to idle without clearing the carbs (revving the motor coming to a stop) I installed a 123Ignition with a vacuum advance. My curve is steeper than the Tii advance and also includes 10 degrees of vacuum advance for off-throttle street manners. I love it. Best $$$ I've spent on tuning the engine. Ed Z

Wow... a Baur and a Touring on the first gathering...nice! Did Cheenu get his red car out of Fredericksburg? looks familiar...

I'll get that oil cap fixed, Ray...Along with learning how not to double post...

+1 on Marshal's list of thing you will need. I used a Ti-correct 90 degree fuel pump and haven't had any problems ( thought I did at one point, but found my issue was float level related) Gotta have the proper water neck and return pipe... Carb synchronizer will save you lots of headaches. Whichever brand you buy, find a good setup manual or two and read them (a couple times). Only Ray would point that out... I suppose I'll have to fix that before Mid Am...

+1 on Marshal's list of thing you will need. I used a Ti-correct 90 degree fuel pump and haven't had any problems ( thought I did at one point, but found my issue was float level related) Gotta have the proper water neck and return pipe... Carb synchronizer will save you lots of headaches. Whichever brand you buy, find a good setup manual or two and read them (a couple times).

I'm in Austin. I bought period correct Solex 40DDHT carbs (Alpina used these at one point) velocity stacks and factory manifolds from Conner Elkington. It took some time (like Marshal says, some of enjoy the tuning part) but they are running well, now. I was able to source proper rebuild kits, linkage and so on. I went the extra mile on a few things that weren't totally necessary, but I'm happy with the results. There is a 2002 drive on the last weekend of March in Fredericksburg. You should attend. I can show you the setup. I'll be at Mid Am as well. Here are the carbs. I haven't found a correct airbox, so I used Uni Filters with the 15 degree angled necks to clear the standard brake booster. If you're going to use the older carbs, you better be committed. Finding parts is not easy. Webers or Delhortos may be easier to manage. Certainly don't buy old carbs without doing some homework first ( I was extremely lucky...and Conner was a big help) I'd be happy to meet up... Ed

Thanks to everyone for driving out tonite! Can't believe we all live so close to one another... We'll certainly have to make a drive soon.

Sounds like we have a plan, of sorts... at least it's 5 Guys or JT's at 6:00... I'll be late, but I'll get there as soon as I can.

We doing this? What time? Address? My car has front bearing going out so, I gotta take the easy route to get there.

Austin was blessed with perfect weather this weekend and I was able to make multiple adjustments and test-runs yesterday and today. I was able to adjust the float levels and found it doesn't take much to make a big difference! First adjustment showed almost no stumbling problem after hard deceleration but was lean under load at high rpm. I simply backed off that initial adjustment till the car didn't run lean. At that point, the stumbling after deceleration was not gone, but noticeably better. I never did install the regulator. Another part of the solution involved a quick-fix to the worn throttle shafts. They must not be worn very much but getting a consistent idle has been frustrating. I simply glopped axle grease on the ends of the throttle shafts. My thought was that the vacuum would pull the grease into the gap and "seal" them. I actually saw improvement. The Carb Tune was much steadier and the idle was smoother. I know this wont be a permanent solution, but it's waaayyyy cheaper than sending them of to be re-bushed... We'll see how long it lasts. (and see if that grease causes combustion issues) There's a 5 speed swap planned this year, I may send the carbs off during that time. Thanks to everyone who helped me sort this out. Ed Z

I have almost the exact same setup ....NGK BP6ES gapped 0.035

Thanks for all responses! I dove back into my Tuning Solex Carburetors book last night. 1.5lbs of fuel pressure is recommended... that is not very much, and easy to exceed. I bought a Mr Gasket pressure regulator last night, didn't install it yet as I was busy messing with other things. The book also talks about solving percolation problems by adjusting fuel float levels... just like you guys have been recommending. Fortunately, this is an easy adjustment on these carbs and can be done in about 3 minutes from the top of the carb. Hooked up the Carb Tune again and tried once again to tweak the idle (it has been inconsistent) Wellllll.... I sprayed carb cleaner around each carb to see if I have any vacuum leaks. Crap... throttle shaft for #2 cylinder is leaky. I was noticing how the rods of the Carb Tune would bounce around...except for #2. It was always steady. So, here is another issue I have to sort out... It's not horrible, yet. It's really only keeping me from a consistent idle below 1000rpm. I can live with that for a while. Spark plug color hasn't shown a lean condition on #2, but I'll watch for it. Worst case scenario I'll have to re-bush the carbs and install new shafts. Right now I'm going to slap heavy grease around the suspect area and see how the engine reacts. Certainly not a permanent repair, but I think it might show me how bad my problem really is... As for the fuel level/over pressure... I will address that over the weekend with fuel float adjustments and pressure regulator install. Thanks again for all the advice, I'll let you know how the repairs go. I want this baby running tip-top for Mid Am !!

I can always count on Ray to give great carburetor advice....he's a good one.... But no leaks on the fuel tank seam. As for steady state symptoms, I am experiencing a flat spot right around 3400rpm at steady driving (about 60-65mph on the highway) It only happens at that rpm level. I think it's related to the transition from the progression circuit to the mains. Kind of a pain, but not a huge deal. As for setting floats the shop manuals talk about the apparatus that I have no access to... So I'll continue to use the chopstick/bamboo skewer method and try to get a more accurate reading. I think a pressure regulator will be easy enough to try as well... they can be pretty expensive (at least the ones suggested here). I do like the stealth mounting of the Mr Gasket regulator under the carbs, but I'm not sure I route the plumbing like that. I'll work on things more in the next few days and try to sort something out. Thanks again for the advice... even yours, Ray...

I'm in! We need to pick a place with decent parking... I like The Dig Pub in Cedar Park, but there is zero parking

Gents, I've posted on the General Discussion page a problem I'm having with my dual Solex 40DDHTs bogging down after deceleration. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/150821-engine-bogs-on-decelleration/ Do any of y'all have any incite as to what could cause this? Thanks in advance... Ed Z

Hans, During rebuild, I had no way to properly bench-test the float level (using the elevated fuel reservoir) so I've checked the float levels after installation by opening the top of the jet cover and dipping a thin bamboo skewer past the air corrector jet and measured the wet level against the top of the carbs and to the mid-point of the venturis. The Solex tuning books say this is where the fuel level should be... The float level is easily adjusted with the fuel inlet. As for the jetting, Mike... Alpina used these carbs in aftermarket applications. I found several references with their specs. http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.02-club.de/technik/solex.htm&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dsolex%2Bddh%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26rls%3DGGLC,GGLC:1969-53,GGLC:en I've also consulted with several FAQ guys and Jurgen Ruddie in Berlin and believe I have the jetting pretty close (don't have a WBO2, but the plug colors have been good during road tests). Carbs came with a 110 main and 40/60 pilot jet. I went to 120 main and was still lean; I'm now at a 130 and midrange is very strong. WOT pulls strong to redline, so Air Corrector must be good as well. The 40/60 Pilot Jet was far too lean. Idle jet screws made no difference in idle speed and were turned out to 3 1/2 - 4 turns. Ruddies had the bigger, 55/90 Pilot Jets and now I can make adjustments at about 2 1/2 turns for highest idle speed. Synchronization is spot-on using a Carb Tune. I rebuilt the fuel pump and it was in very good shape. I spent a long time rebuilding both carbs, making sure every last detail was inspected and cleaned. The leaking needle valve may be the culprit...perhaps it has a tiny piece of debris in the orifice. I was hoping to avoid removing them, but I may need to tear them apart and inspect them thoroughly again. Something is amiss and the fuel smell in the garage after shutdown is pretty bad. Thanks for the input, I appreciate any help I can get.

After searching the far reaches for obsolete bits and pieces and finally getting my dual Solexes jetted correctly (Ruddies-Berlin had the goods) I am still experiencing a persistent bog after deceleration. It's not lean-popping. The carbs are loading up (too much fuel). It's my understanding that during hard deceleration, the fuel pump (mechanical) is whizzing away and overloading the carbs. I presume the pressure spikes and forces fuel past the shutoff valve and overfilling the bowl. It can be a real PITA when downshifting and then trying to get right back into the throttle....stumble, stumble... It's an even bigger PITA in traffic and running up on a redlight (why do they all change RIGHT in front of me??) The carbs get loaded up, then engine bogs down, and I have to blip the throttle until it clears itself. So... sounds like I need a fuel pressure regulator between fuel pump and carbs. Which one do y'all suggest? Here's my setup in case I'm mis-reading my problem... '71 M10 with 121 head 292 cam original flat top pistons (low comp) Hi amp alt Bosch 0-231-129-033 dizzy (Ti dizzy, with tight shaft and appears to have good curve characteristics) Hot Spark igniter Red coil Ignition set to about 25 degrees at 2200 rpm. (checked total advance at about 37 degrees at 3000 rpm?) Long tube header Twin Solex 40DDHTs (freshly rebuilt, with tight throttle shafts) jetted: 55-90 Pilot jet 130 main 90 Air Corrector Original velocity stacks, running angled UniFilters (easily clears brake booster) Original 90 degree mechanical fuel pump (also freshly rebuilt) One last thing... I'm getting a strong gasoline smell after it sits (like my POS Weber 32/36 used to do in the heat of the summer when it would vapor lock) There are phenolic spacers between carbs and manifolds. I really don't think it's vapor locking, but maybe it is.. I do have to pump the gas several times in the AM to get her started. IDK... I'm also seeing fuel on the seal of the gas cap (like it sloshes up the fill pipe..) but it isn't leaking down the fender, or anything. Ay suggestions??