Zorac

thats bigger than mine, mine are smaller more like what you see for body trim or holding a license plate on.

its just some generic metal screw, not a nut/bolt. find the hole, find a flat head metal screw that fits and put it in. if the treads dont grab (stripped), go once size bigger. it just goes through the sheet metal so careful when tightening it. autoparts stores usually have some generic selection of these types of screws.

looks like i have it right, ill know for sure when i pull it off. i did switch that sleve piece though, i had two of them, one from a late model tranmission with a lot of ware, and one from an early tranmission with less ware. i put the early sleeve on the late model transmission which went into my car. not sure if thats an issue, everything seemed to line up right

you should still be able to see the mark on the flywheel and line it up to the window. look for a mark on the cam sprocket and that should be close to lining up with the spray bar. use the fly wheel mark first though if you use the other mark you could be off by 180. both valves on the 1 cylinder should be closed when your tdc. if you pull your plugs out you can probably rotate the crank shaft pully by hand. when i removed my head, i didn't set to tdc, i did mark one link on the chain and a corresponding mark on the sprocket (i used some degreaser than white tremclad with a q-tip), and use a screw driver through the chain and some zip ties so it didn't go back in and slip the crank sprocket. cam sprocket only ones on one way so you dont have to worry about markig the cam. pull your tentioner out too, give you some slack to work with. do check it all your marks when you get it back tother though, triple check once the distributor is back in and you turn the key. to make life easier, you can put the distributer housing back on before putting the head back on engine (but not the distribtor). do whatever you can to avoid loosing bolts into the engine, jam rags in wholes, tape holes, make sure you have a magnet on a stick. remember to oil the tentioner when you put is all back tother too (once its back in the engine, pour oil into the top of it, youll see a little ledge kind of spot)

its a getrag 4 speed, leaking like crazy. using tips from this forum, i have removed the transmission, but am looking for tip on installing the new one? the old one i just pounded in, made sure it didn't rub in the same spot as the old one, but some CV grease in the groove and put it all together. It only has about 10,000km on it so I want to do it right this time so its not leaking again in such short order. thanks!

cool knob, for $25 shipped thats a good deal!

lots of good suggestions here! here is my vote: steering box rebuild parts (gears) dome light electrial switches, blinkers, wipers, hazzards oil pumps and fans for the heater boxes are avialbe, but the prices are crazy, not sure if that is a lack of supply...

canadian prices on these cars always seem higher than us prices, even after allowing for exchange (or so my experience goes). not quite enought to justify shipping and importing a car from the states, but close on something that is in good shape.

thats pretty cool! i wish alberta would do that. i have a 73 plate on the front of my car though, but i cant put it on the rear and register the plate.

had a weird leak on my diff, it seemed like the input seal was leaking, but the dust cover for the seal was dry. i had replaced the seal roughly 10,000km ago. i did cheat on the reasembly, i couldnt get the new crush washer to crush and my gauge for measuring the bearing resistance wasnt going to work for this so i put the old crush washer back in, torqued to the minium (150ft pounds if i remember right) and made sure the marks on the shaft/flange me. only the seal was replaced, no bearings or gears so i figured that would be ok. its an open diff so if i messed up it up i wasn't fussed. the leak was starting to get pretty bad so i pulled the diff out and it looked like its coming out the nut. presumable its going up the splines then through the treads of the nut. anyone else have a similar problem? solutions to fix it? maybe some sealant on the splines, which would suck if i ever have to take it apart again, or a bunch of blue loctite on the treads?

ive lost them, now i keep a few spares around. where ever your buying your other parts for your carb should carry them. i bought mine from allstate carb and fuel injection (online) last time.

i would if you were local to me!

after i put some miles on my rebuilt engine i noticed the oil pan gasket starting to weap. sure enough the bolts were a bit loose so i tightened them all and its been good since, although i havent put many miles on. seems to happen with the cork gaskets, had the same thing happen on a ford 2.3l as well. if you have eliminated all other sources, tighten the oil pan bolts up. i couldnt get a torque wrench in there, and they don't go very tight so be careful. i got a feel for the torque on a differnt bolt i could access with the torque wrench then went under and did the oil pan. if its a tired engine, the oil pan gasket is likely shot.

i like the rota r20, but they don't come up for sale often and the original vintage (that they are a copy of) is way to expensive for me!

whoever put that thread together has some serious patience!

the slop on mine is the same, dead center its tight, but the further you go to each side the worse it gets.

anything is possible with enough money! ken block did it to an old school mustang, but im not sure how much of the original mustang was left in the final car.

my car is a 73 and had a nylon barrel, but after 40 years who knows if it was original.

Actually I had problems with the o-rings in blunts kit too, specifically the small one, managed to find some generic ones at the local napa. no biggie, the whole reason i wanted to blunt kit was to replace all the plastic internals on my valve, and it did that well. valve works great now.

testors 1111ca dark blue is close

yes, saw it there as well, just though id share the page.

ive seen this picture on the faq a few times (bottom left) although i forget who. This is a clip from the Autumn/Winter 2014 BMW Magazine. no article unfortuantly just the picture and one line blurb under it.