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Zorac

Solex
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Everything posted by Zorac

  1. is your odometer out to? my speedo is very optimistic, but the odometer is right on. you might correct your speedo, but then mess up the odometer.
  2. i bought an order through them a little over a year ago and it was good. they were super helpful and only sold me what i needed. looked at at the pictures I sent them and made good suggestions. some parts still had the w&n packaging on them, some parts were made in house.
  3. Exactly, I figure the starting ritual for my weber is enough to discourage anyone driving it away. The bigger risk is the more organized thefts with a flatbed or tow truck.
  4. apparently you can push it back and put another one on. i drilled a small hole on the edge (to catch the metal part of the seal, look at your new one to see where) and put a drywall screw into the small hole (3/32nds i think?) and pulled on that. came right out.
  5. needle nose plyers and an ordinary screw driver. since the seals are being done anyway, heat may help. i have seen copious amounts of red loctite put on splines for the output shaft before, not a jump to see this on the back of this keeper as well
  6. no, but the tube going in goes to the bottom of the container, so if i have the right cap it will suck it back through the same tube (vented vs non vented if i'm not backwards), if not, it will act simply as a catch can and catch the overflow. the tank is vented to atmosphere.
  7. nice work! something i would like to do on mine as well. but you know, its never done, there will be a new project tomorrow!
  8. you guys inspired me to finally mount mine today. changed location to behind the headlight like everyone else.
  9. actually when i put it on and went for a drive i though it was a bit big for my hand. you don't really notice how big they are when you play pool, but then you don't go around palming them. but its stylish and the weight is about right! another lap around the block and ill be use to it.
  10. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/151361078157?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT you don't get a jam nut though so be careful when you get it and thread it on. although the seller has the right tap for our car, he doesn't have source for jam nuts. he was really good to deal with too.
  11. I can't take credit, i bought the car with the interior already in it.
  12. yup, came pre threaded, just spun it on and done.
  13. just arrived in the mail! the #6 ball is a close match to agave!
  14. bought one of these: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Universal-Coolant-Bottle-Overflow-Cars-For-TOYOTA-NISSAN-/171717283743?hash=item27fb25cf9f&vxp=mtr havent had time to mount it yet, but it fits nicely where the charcoal filter use to be for the gas tank vent up by the exhaust (and very close to the rad). unfortunately it will need new holes, the old holes don't work, and youll need a bit of extra hose as the rad vents to the driver side and there isnt much room on that side to mount an overflow unless you have relocated your battery.
  15. i got tired of cranking the engine waiting for my weber float bowl to fill if the car sat for more than a few days so i bought an electric pump. running a carter like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Fuel-Pump-Carter-P60504-MAZDA-TOYOTA-SAAB-/361371576662
  16. i picked up a 2010 328i with xdrive last fall. with winter tires on, you dont even notice the snow/ice. im in alberta (calgary area) so temp range is similar to your location. 4 door is family friendly and its very nice to drive (coming from a truck). no block heater option, but with the synthetic oil it seems fine without it, this concerned me too when i was looking at a new (to me) car, but appears to be a non issue.
  17. they have that, but too late now! gasket in (dry) and tranny back in the car! just made sure everything was very clean. can't be any worse than before.
  18. scratch that, can't get that around here, all that i can get the the aerosal permatex gasket tack
  19. like this? http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-ultra-rubber-gasket-sealant-dressing-detail and avoid the products (rtv) that are meant to replace a paper gasket? this is a real pain to get too, i'm paranoid ill end up with it leaking again! i used dirko grey on the paper gasket last time and that didn't work well and general consensus is that i should of used rtv and the paper gasket at the same time.
  20. preped the surfaces with a razor blade, the aluminum side isnt the greatest. didnt want to wait for a new gasket (3 weeks from germany) so i bought some fel-pro 1/64 gasket paper and made my own, pretty happy with the way it turned out. googled and read lots, and it seems my old one likely leaked because i used rtv on it, so i'm planning on inserting the new gasket dry. my only concern is that the aluminum side on the transmission isn't the greatest to the point where the outside of the bolt holes are even a bit rounded (looks like it was made like that?). any words of wisdom before i put it all together dry?
  21. all were torqued as per the factory manual. not much of a star pattern when there are only 3! i usually go around, snug them all up first, then torque them all.
  22. for the second time in 3 years i am replacing all the gaskets/seals on the transmission and diff. it looks like my biggest issue was not sealing threads (particularly on the shift mount platform) and not putting loctite on splines (and having the oil follow the splines out). the other leak was the transmission input gasket where it was thinnest at the bolts. i had put all my seals in dry with a smear of moly grease on the lip where it met the shaft and did my gaskets with a very light smearing of dirko on both sides. this might be a bit like asking which oil is best, but anyone have any suggestions? new plan was for red loctite on on splines, smear of dirko on the outside of seals and moly grease on the inside lip, and a light smear (but heavier were bolts are this time) of dirko on both sides of gaskets (worked 2 out of 3 times last time). lastly, ive been told the trans input gasket is only available through dealers now (unfortunately with dealer prices and dealer wait times), any thoughts on either making a new gasket or reusing my old gasket? it came out in relatively good shape, the fact it was the leaking one concerns me though. maybe use only dirko, be tough to get right around where the oil come in to the front of the bearing though.
  23. you woudln't want the spline moving in and out on the car, it would cook your cv pretty quick. if you take a 1" coupler for steel plumbing it will fit on the end perfectly so you can hit it down with a rubber mallet (with the shaft in a vice so not to put pressure on the cv). careful you dont go to far, just enough to get the snap ring on.
  24. received this in an email this morning for shoes!
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