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Simeon

Alpina
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Everything posted by Simeon

  1. They are not that indirect. Conduction of heat means that they are not far off the temperature of the coolant within them once the engine has been running for a while and the temperature is stable. Aim for the top and bottom hoses, the rubber works well for temp measurements and this shows you the differential across the radiator.
  2. Bare in mind, we all shoot for the perfection of 3 o’clock but BMW considers anywhere in the white as normal depending upon how you are driving the car. If if that is as hot as it ever goes, on a hot day, in traffic, then it is fine. Yes it could be better but you don’t need to sweat it. Check your gauge is electrically correct. I recommend the ground improvement regardless. Verify the temperature by alternate means if you can.
  3. The ‘third’ connection is related to a low fuel light (using the large red light on the instrument binnacle). If you leave it disconnected (I would insulate it well do you don’t get an occasional flicker) it will have no negative impact. Oh, and get some hose clamps on your fuel line. Clamp all joints in the truck and any under the hood as the hose goes to the carb.
  4. I resisted the urge to get the googly eyes.
  5. Nor should you. You are definitely risking a catastrophic failure (in terms of blowing brake fluid every where) if you fill that up with brake fluid. It’s really no hardship (and probably a good thing) to take your time, keep an eye on the level, pressure down and top up as required.
  6. Yup. 8 pages of this thread for a start. 8 pages!
  7. Budget is a big question. A nice bench supply could set you back a few hundred dollars or you could get a cheap power supply off eBay for less than $50. I am considering this myself, I am looking out on eBay and local ads for a good second hand bench supply. If you are only using it for automotive stuff then something something like this would be OK. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333097595541 Less well packaged but one of these in a suitable size would do. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202346045107 If you want to do more with it, something like this would be good. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F153359019737 You could even just repurpose a 12V power supply plug brick by cutting off the lead end plug and wiring it out to some terminals. I bet you already have a couple those hanging around your house. These are fine for low current applications.
  8. Here’s what I have done. I am going to pop rivet this to the tunnel when I get to installing a new carpet. I got a coated steel ‘down pipe connector’ for guttering. I trimmed this down to height and then turned out a lip. I then epoxied a section of split plastic irrigation hose around the perimeter. I will give it a shot of black paint to tidy it up.
  9. Vacuum bleeding is definitely less effective than pressure bleeding. I have done both. The problem with vacuum bleeding is that it is a lot harder to draw and equivalent vacuum at the caliper to the pressure at the master reservoir. The vacuum leaks around the threads on the bleeders. I could see it working better without all of the static fluid between the bleeder and the master (like on a bike) but I gave up and bought a pressure bleeder.
  10. What you need to do (if you are not replating) is get a plate of steel and drill and tap appropriate size holes in it. You can then run in your bolts and the use a wire wheel on a bench grinder to clean them up. I give them a shot of some ‘silver galv’ cold galvanise paint that is used to touch up galvanising when it is cut or welded. This in no way is better or even close to replating but it does get them clean and all one colour. I think it lasts about as long as the plating on fasteners as well but then I am cheap. This is the stuff I use, I am sure you can find something similar locally. https://www.dymark.com.au/categories/protectivedecorative/surfaceprotection/silvergal
  11. C’mon now, he is using funny sized bolts not a Lucas alternator.
  12. It’s an extra $100,000 for 0.1 of a litre. That’s fecking hilarious. ???
  13. Mechanics (quite rightly) expect us to pay our bills on time, so why can’t they do the work on time? Part of being a professional ‘anything’ is being able to plan, estimate and communicate with clients. I don’t excuse workshops from that unless they are massively old school and then, I would expect something about their customer service to be exceptional. I have no problem with a shop being busy, or even having unexpected issues that come up but I know when I am ‘having my leg pulled’. This is mainly why I do all of the work on my car.
  14. Does it need that? I can see you needing to amplify the pulses from a factory style reluctor ignition with a separate controller (think the Bosch arrangement on later M10s) but a Pertronix is just an electronic switch that directly replaces points. It just grounds and then opens the black wire just like points.
  15. Maybe we are all right (except maybe me as I don’t think I responded)? He needs to prove us wrong. Is that how this works?
  16. +1 for Harry’s version. I have them and they work well and are very sturdy. Check how well the pillar bracket is attached to the door pillar and rectify first if yours are anything less than rigid and sturdy.
  17. That can’t be hard to make one up. What does it use to connect to points? You would need to feed 12v in the red wire to power the Pertronix and then connect the black wire to the Sun since that’s the connection that gets grounded when the ‘points’ are closed. Does the Sun have a 12V supply available (I am guessing it has one somewhere but not necessarily available at a handy terminal).
  18. Apart from the engine. The rest sounds like a solid day’s work. Jeez why don’t they just do it and get you out the way?
  19. It would probably perform about the same as well.
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