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Simeon

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Everything posted by Simeon

  1. Simeon
    Have you got the display wired to the narrow band output rather than the analog output? What do you see when you put a bolt meter on the output from the Spartan?
  2. Simeon
    My guess? Blockage in the idle jet. Have a look where that arrow on the picture above is pointed and you will find either a idle solenoid (as discussed above) or a idle jet carrier. If it’s a carrier, unscrew and clean out the jet in the end.
  3. Simeon
    I can’t tell exactly what’s involved in refurbing your shifter without seeing exactly what type it is but I can tell you: 1) You don’t need to drop the transmission 2) You don’t NEED to drop the drive shaft from the back of the gearbox but it will definitely help in terms of clearance. 3) If you can get a photo of your shifter arrangement and send it to Blunt, he can send you back a kit of parts to fix it up. 4) replace the bushes in the linkage that would let the gear stick lose motion plus any rubber bushes that may be shot due to oil etc. 5) Think about swapping out the rear gearbox mount for the larger 3 series style of it hasn’t been already.
  4. Simeon
    Have a look at this thread for some pictures of what you are looking at (written from the perspective of reinstallation).
  5. Simeon
    The split pin holds the glass to the hinge. Leave that alone for now. Take the grey pinchweld off the inside of the B pillar and go delving between the rubber seal and the glass. They are pretty small screws and a good idea to have someone hold the glass from the outside as you remove them.
  6. Simeon
    There should be screws evenly spaced on the B pillar. Not at the immediate top and bottom but certainly the middle 2/3s.
  7. Simeon
    You take the latch off and this should allow you to open the window further. This should expose some tiny self tapping screws through the hinge. If you take those out, you should be able to remove the glass as an assembly. The seal should be relatively clear after that.
  8. Simeon
    There should be a row of trim clips (the same as the front door cards) along the front edge of the rear cards. Gently pop those out first and then lift up using a few fingers through the ashtray and under the armrest. It should then come off the top flange.
  9. Simeon
    Definitely no reason not to rev these cars, though if you are not used to classic cars the noise / vibration/ harshness can seem extreme. They thrive at higher revs and BMW designed them to cruise at high speed (in 4th gear).
  10. Simeon
    I would get a 4mm steel plate, drill a hole through it and weld the seat belt bolt sized nut on the back (5/16” UNF?). I would then drill a hole to clearance the nut roughly at roughly at the intersection of the tube and the angled member. Slap the plate over the hole and then fully weld around the perimeter.
  11. Simeon
    Yes but where on the car body did you connect the ground lead and what else did you connect there?
  12. Simeon
    Welcome welcome. Your car is a stunner and thank for sharing. This place is the best place to hang out if you like 02s. Come back often (with pictures).
  13. Simeon
    Spot on. I would interpret this as a bad ground and the negative voltage is actually back fed from something else. Where is your TPS signal grounded?
  14. Simeon
    Parts like that are likely to only come from one source, regardless of who you buy it from and how much you pay. As might be expected for a car that went went out of production over 40 years ago.
  15. Simeon
    Significant stretch seems to be part of the life cycle of these cables. It’s pretty common that people make up spacers from short sections of pipe or a number of slightly larger nuts that fit over the threaded portion and space the nuts off the handbrake lever. This restores the ability to adjust them and wrings a bit more life from them.
  16. Simeon
    I think you are correct as Locktite wouldn’t recommend that product for thread sealing but it has become the done thing as people ‘get away with it’. It’s not under any pressure so presumably not to challenging to seal so the red / blue lockers work OK. The main thing is to get the holes and studs clean and dry to let whatever you use do its stuff.
  17. Simeon
    Blunt. Www.blunttech.com
  18. Simeon
    My turn to be the old man shaking his fist at the sky. Why is everyone in rush to replace the dash bulbs with LEDs? Given that the filament bulbs have such a long life and use little power anyway, why bother? People only seem to end up with ‘integration issues’ like this. Wipe the dust off the bulbs, paint the interior of the instrument panel white and replace any that have failed. Be happy for the next 40 years.
  19. Simeon
    Not sure of the feasibility of lowering the column. The flex disk would then be out of line. It’s not designed to work like a U/J to deal with misalignment so may suffer a short life and the steering might ‘bunch up’ as it is turned.
  20. Simeon
    I suppose the miles are the same.
  21. Simeon
    Yes it is (assuming that the correct flywheel dowels are in place). BMW varies the engine speed for that given advance to cope with different engines and distributor applications.
  22. Simeon
    If the gauge is pegged with both senders then you have a dead short in your wiring somewhere. Take a good detailed look at the terminals at the top of the tank. Any chance of the wires or crimp terminals touching the top of the tank? Having disturbed the wiring at the tank, this is the most likely site but the short could be anywhere along the wire from the tank to the gauge. Probably a good idea to eyeball the wiring loom from rear to front to look for any obvious issues.
  23. Simeon
    Without doubt there will be an absolute difference in terms of maximum air flow between the stock manifold and a literal 38mm x 38mm inlet throat. The problem is that this is marginal and is only possibly relevant at 100% wide open throttle. There are three positions: stock (undersized), machined out to 38/38 and hogged out ‘peanut style’ with a large single opening underneath the carb. With each increase in flow you will see a massive decrease in air velocity. This has a big effect on drive ability pushing peak power away from normal set-ups. I doubt you would be able to determine the difference between a stock manifold and a manifold cut or hogged in any way.
  24. Simeon
    The meta comment here is that you don’t need to hog the manifold out (but not trying to swing this thread in this direction). If you want to do it then you can hog it in place with the precautions that you have discussed. Overall, I would really try and get your manifold off because you will need to overcome this hurdle when you go to side drafts ?
  25. Simeon
    In theory you are correct, certainly 123 tell you to set static based on when the green light comes on. The reality for me is that I am a butter fingers and getting something like that right is an impossibility. It then makes sense to have a point on your curve that corresponds to the ball (25 degrees BTDC) at a known engine speed. That way you can dial up that speed and shoot for the ball with your lamp and adjust accordingly. This will dial out any inaccuracies that were put there during installation and give you confidence that the timing it shows on the app is correct. You probably know this already ready but you can’t use a standard ‘advance’ timing light with an MSD. The multiple sparks confuse it. You need to stick with a plain Jane fixed advance light so that’s why the ball is useful.
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