Preyupy

It would be fantastic if we could get together somewhere. Nice weather and fun roads would be my choice.

You would probably get more information if you posted this in the regular forum. This one is for the Factory 2002 Turbo group and I doubt that anyone is going to modify one with a M20. As far as physical space for the G260 gearbox in a standard 2002 tunnel you should only have to make room on the left side to clear the clutch slave cylinder. Obviously you will need to modify the rear transmission mount because the transmission is longer than the stock 4 speed, and modify the shift tower and driveline as well. Again asking in the main forum will get you more attention from the people with M20 modified cars.

That gearbox was designed to use a thicker oil than the Redline MTL. The spec is 80 or 90 weight non hypoid gear oil OR a HD grade engine oil (usually 30W or 40W) If you are hearing gear rattling in neutral with the clutch engaged this is completely normal and will be worse with a lighter weight oil (it also gets worse when the transmission is hot). As far as the whine in 1st gear, this is usually caused by a bad countershaft bearing inside the transmission but also could be worn gears. The only way to know for sure is take it apart.

A modern turbocharger works fantastic with the stock KF injection as long as you are not trying to make significant increases in power. The KF system has a bit of room for maybe 1.5-2.0 psi of additional boost but then you run out of travel on the boost compensation piston in the pump. The pump can only deliver so much fuel so additional boost pressure can/will cause a dangerous lean condition. However if you stick with the stock 0.5bar of boost you can come up with a turbo that spools up much faster. i restored a car for a customer a number of years ago that did not have an original turbocharger. After spending months looking for one I decided to try a modern turbo to get it running and keep looking. I found a turbo from an Isuzu that would bolt to the exhaust manifold. It had an internal waste gate that I had to modify the external linkage to make it fit. I machined an adaptor that would connect the intake from the air filter. The exhaust outlet was different so I had to fabricate a completely new down pipe. This worked so good he decided he did not want to change back to a stock turbo when we finally found one ( we put it on the shelf so he has it if he ever wants to sell the car). This car now makes 5psi of boost at 2500 rpm and is limited to 7.5 psi. If I remember correctly it makes 200 lb/ft of torque at around 3500-4000 rpm and 185-190hp @ 6200 rpm. Compared to a stock 2002 TURBO there is probably 80% less turbo lag. If you don’t care about originality this completely transforms driving a 2002 TURBO. Plus if you do it correctly no one will ever know it’s there, it is almost impossible to see. I left the stock boost pipes between the turbo and intake manifold. It looks stock. Here is a video of it on the dyno. Sorry the sound is not great, it was too loud for the camera mic.

Any idea when that was taken?

as of 2 weeks ago I know someone that is having a 235/5 Jenson Healey transmission being rebuilt.

If it is the gasket between front housing (bell housing) and the middle housing it is not a huge job. If it is the one between the rear housing and the middle one you basically need to completely disassemble the transmission to get to it. Even the front gasket can be tricky if you don't have the input shaft bearing puller. You need to be very careful with that bearing it is virtually NLA

33mm chokes are a bit small for a 2081cc engine if you plan on making any power above 5000 rpm. That said it should pull well past 3500 if everything else is right. I agree, check your throttle pedal/carburetors and make sure you are getting full throttle opening. You also need to confirm WITH A TIMING LIGHT ON THE ENGINE you are actually getting the advance you THINK you are getting! If you move the distributor the actual advance will change without changing the "setting" inside the distributor.

No, you need to machine enough off the head to erase the grooves. This is why cutter ring gaskets are not a good idea. I know the Ti/Tii/Turbos used them and they were a good idea for sealing 50 years ago but they are HORRABLE for serviceability. You can't even replace a cutter ring gasket with another without surfacing the head if you expect it to hold. I had a customer bring me a Turbo that kept "blowing headgaskets". When I pulled the head off I found witness marks from at least 6 cutter ring gaskets !!! They just kept pulling the head off and stuffing a new gasket in place, the head was really chewed up. I run stock non cutter ring gaskets on all of my engines below 11:1 compression ratio and MLS gaskets on all of the 11:1-13.5:1 race engines and turbos.

If you are trying to build a reproduction of a factory 2002 turbo then trying to find the exceedingly rare parts like injection pumps exhaust manifold, turbo etc is going to be hard and expensive. With modern fuel injection and turbochargers you would be much better off NOT using the 48 year old technology. A true 2002 turbo is the poster child for TURBO LAG! It is easy to make 20-30% more power and CUT the turbo lag by 90% using modern tech, why would you not do that?

With a 6.9:1 compression ratio anytime you ARE NOT on boost it needs a lot of advance to be efficient. A NA engine with a 9.5:1 compression ratio and a 008 distributor is at 32-35 deg (depending on where you set it) of advance anytime you are over 3200 rpm. I have run up to 40 deg off boost and it makes a big difference in lag time. You just need to make sure you pull enough advance out of it to get back down to 25 deg by the time you are at 0.5bar of boost.

With the 123 distributor I found that a stock turbo likes as much as 15 deg of advance as low as 1000 rpm and I run it up to 30 deg by 1800 rpm and then up to 35deg by 2500 rpm. I then use the MAP scale to retard it 10 degrees under boost (their scale is based on kP) I ramp it down 10 degrees @156 on their scale. My curve starts at 0 adv/retard at 100kP and goes to -10 degrees at 156kp. I run 0 advance or retard under vacuum and rely totally on the "centrifugal" curve for my advance.

They are not factory. INTRA was actually a very good wheel. We sold a ton of them in the 70’s especially for the VW Rabbit ( same bolt pattern, different offset), I don’t know what happened to INTRA but they fell off the map by the mid 80’s

I have spent a lot of time on the dyno with a 1-2-3 distributor. These engines want a lot of advance OFF BOOST. It is easy to come up with a curve that works then use the Vac/Boost system to retard it back to a safe advance one it comes up on boost. I’m happy to share info and even a couple of the MAPS I have been running.

One of the major problems in finding a good reliable mechanic for our cars is for decades we have all worked on them ourselves. They were easy to work on and we enjoyed doing it. We did not use professional mechanics to keep them running we talked to our friends (we all have at least 7-8 2002 owners on our speed dial) . We did not encourage local shops to get familiar with our little boxes and the dealerships stopped getting them through the door once they were more than 5 years old. I worked for a BMW dealer in the mid to late 80's and in that entire time I may have worked on less than 10 '02's. I always got them because I actually OWNED one. When I first went to work at that dealership I was the only employee (including the owner) that actually had a BMW registered in my name. The current NEW group of '02 owners all grew up in the last 20 years when there were no carburetors, distributors, manual transmissions, simple non ABS braking systems with drum brakes, manual windows, totally inadequate heating and ventilation systems and the list goes on.... IF they can't plug a laptop into it and get told what is wrong they are lost. We never thought twice about putting our cars up in the air and dropping the transmission to put in a new clutch. On a modern front wheel drive car this is not a 2 hour job in the garage any longer. They just don't have any experience working on cars any longer and are completely at a loss to do even the most simple repairs themselves. The problem then falls to the repair shops and finding one that is willing to LEARN all about a 50 year old car to help you keep it running just does not make for a good business plan unless there are 50-100 local '02's, E3's, E9's, E12's etc that will all start coming to them. If you think this is bad we work on 1920's Bentleys, 30's 40's 50's race cars where there are no repair manuals or parts available! We spend more time on the phone trying to find parts that we actually spend with a wrench in our hands. On top of that assuming that a 80-100 year old car that just drove into the shop is assembled correctly is the worst assumption you could ever have. At some point this old Type 35 Bugatti was just an old car and someone was trying to keep it running without spending any more money on it than absolutely necessary. Do you know how many Ferrari Testa Rosas at some time had small block Chevrolet engines stuffed in them because the 3 liter V12 didn't run and "Bob" had no idea where to start. I started working on cars when I bought my 1st 1600 when I was 18. I quickly found out if I did not learn to work on it myself I could not afford to keep it. A local club guy, who at the time was the unofficial CLUB mechanic working out of his garage, took me under his wing and helped me learn. 50 years later I still own the '02 I bought in 1974 (used '70 1600) and I now restore and maintain vintage race cars and race them all over the world. Remember to us these are just 2002's but to the rest of the world they are 50 year old collector cars. In 1973 when that 2002 was new how may repair shops would work on a 1923 Benz?

Exactly right, you just need to make sure you don't pay top $$$$ for it and then find out it needs $75k+ to make it a top $$$ car.

With the pump off I use an assembly lube in the pump to make sure it has a good seal and will prime at cranking rpm. You can just put the lube down the feed hole (your picture right beside the pressure relief valve and the mounting bolt hole) Turn the pump backwards to pump the lube through the pump. Are you sure it is not pumping? try cranking (short bursts) with the filter off and see if there is any oil flow. The oil goes through the filter 1st thing before it gets to the pressure relief valve or any of the oil galleys.

The racers back in the middle '60's used the long stroke 1800 (1600 bore and 2liter stroke) engines bored to 89mm to run in the Under 2 liter class in sports cars. It can be done but I recommend you have the block sonic checked to make sure the cylinder walls are thick enough to get away with it. What is the inspection process for your cars that the engine serial number is checked to match the actual car? Is it OK to swap a different engine (from the same year and model)? How knowledgeable are they about the cars? Are they just looking at the VIN on the block or would they also look a the date stamps cast into the block? Would they know the difference between a 118 head (1600/1800) and a 121/E12/E21 head from a 2 liter or even a later 1.8 head?

The other option is to check those same 2 holes. If they are 8mm it is for an M10. 10 MM and with wider spacing is M20

Have you tried to drain the oil? After sitting for 25 years outside I suspect that the oil that was in the pan has turned into Jello. The pump isn't working because it can't suck that gunk through the pickup. If the pump is bad, sprocket came off etc it happened when it was running last and most likely trashed the bearings at that time and that is why it got parked in the 1st place.

Rudy’s Turbo was the only one I had ever even sat in before I finally finished the restoration on mine.

We sure had a good time! I met a lot of good BMW friends on that trip. It’s been a long time Gordon.

I use a measuring tool I made out of a piece of 5” clear plastic bar. I cut a recess into one side deep enough to clear the top of the dome and 90mm diameter ( or bigger depending on your bore) Drill a small hole through to the top as close to the edge of the bore as you can. Put it on a flat surface ( a small bit of grease will help seal it) and fill it. With that measurement you now know the volume of the tool. Put a small amount of grease around the top of the piston to seal it so you don’t get any leakage past the rings. Now with the piston at TDC put the tool over the bore ( again with a little grease to seal it ) either have someone hold the tool steady or make a clamp that holds it in place. Now fill the tool again. Subtract this number from the total volume you got before and you have the piston dome volume.

I installed the sender without the adaptor just like this 47 years ago and it’s still working.

It is possible someone has significantly OVER TORQUED the head bolts at some point and crushed the head around the rocker shafts. If this engine had ARP head studs and they were torqued to the ARP spec this would not surprise me at all.