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Interesting looking piston, (the one used as the example with the arrows and letters) wedge head SB Chev around 10 to 1 with a long rod or 400 crank. I like your approach, personally I would use a Dykes or .043 top, as gas porting, vertical or horizontal on anything but a race motor can be problematic. The ports tend to clog with combustion stuff, and without the pressure backing the low tension tops can incur blow-by at speed. I like the oversize oil returns on the oil ring, great idea that really augments oil control. Your alloy selection is by far the most durable being the material of choice originating form WW2 allied aircraft power-plants. You could try contacting Phil at JE Pistons, he might be willing to supply the dome data you need if you promise not to start making pistons.

Don't forget to have the main line checked. If the #4 main "galled" there was a significant amount of heat generated in the #4 main journal of the block. It will be out of round and need serviced. A line bore or hone will resolve any problem and possibly cure the cause of the malfunction, although no one here knows the state of the components prior to the burned up main bearing. The engine now requires a sensible approach to repair, once the block is done a replacement or repaired crank can be installed. Do yourself a favor and have all the clearances checked by somebody other than the last machinist. Almost all the parts should be reusable barring contamination from bearing material floating thru the system.

Are you looking for the lobe center number or ? The easiest way to locate yours is to split the degrees of .050 before max lift and .050 after max lift via the following linked method. Timing Your Cam I believe your cam is ground on 108 centers and I only assume that from the catalog. Personally I plot all cams on a cam doctor or on graph paper at .005 increments with a dial indicator in the lathe. You can be surprised how much variation can show up end to end. But that is just me and I can be a little over the top on preparation.

I hate to break the news but measuring and preparing a proper engine build is not blueprinting BS from some book. You should never install anything out of the box without a micrometer in your hand, I don't care who manufactures it. Your hard earned money is worth the time to learn and do it right the first time.

Just remember the spider (differential) gears carry the load when you step on the throttle. That is why they are worn out, from the load. Your ring (crown gear) looks fine. Replace the galled spiders and shafts if worn and life will be good. Anyone who had a 57 Chevy and revved her up and dumped the clutch too many times can tell you all about spider gears.

Mine has about one thread showing above the lock-nut of the mixture screw.

On the surface it appears that yes the overall mixture is weak, they will really fall off at 4000 plus when over lean condition exist. But, I would review the linkage, ignition timing advance curve, and warm up regulator setting before proceeding. Not knowing the disposition of the engine prior to the rebuild I am just guessing. If it ran ok before, then there is likely and assembly issue. Meaning, pump timing, intake (vacuum) leak, ignition timing, or a non stock cam profile can be a real issue.

For a little history of a cold war product for preserving the polished skin of an Atlas ICBM WD40

I agree that the parts are limited in their ability to be "rebuilt" back to new standards, but good results have been attained by the pump guys listed on the FAQ. For the price new parts command, I am surprised that a few Kuglefischer components haven't landed in Beijing for some Cantonese reverse engineering. I am not endorsing counterfeit imports, but these injectors have got to be easier to reproduce than those Rolex Daytona's

Just a little history regarding the small Ford V8 The Ford 221, 260, 289, and 302 are all same block same deck height and same weight (except for aluminum Indy versions). The variations are numerous from the 4 valve Indy 4 cam variation, 2 valve push rod 4 Weber version in Lotus 25 Indy cars, Le Mans winning GT40 2 valve push rod single 4bbl version, a bolt on overhead cam kit from Ford (quite rare), Gurney Westlake heads, 2 valve tunnel port Trans Am heads, and production Boss 302 heads. It was a very versatile engine with a 40 year production run and just guessing it may have won more major races than most.

Nicely done

I never discount the possibility of new technology, but for you viewing pleasure some old products that didn't make the cut. EPA's Evaluation of Fuel Economy/Efficiency Products EPA tests fuel saving products to determine whether they significantly improve fuel economy as claimed in their ads. However it does not conduct any durability tests and therefore, is in no position to inform us what harm these products might bring to a car or its performance. It warms that on board diagonostic systems associated with modern vehicles' sophisticated and comple emission control systems might be adversely affected by retrofit of these products in alarming the driver to problems of emission control and fuel delivery. These Auto 'Fuel Economy' Products Don't Work - EPA EPA found the following products claiming in their ads to improve car fuel economy or efficiency didn't do so. As warned above, there are some potential harms possible. Air Bleed Devices These devices bleed air into the carburetor. They usually are installed in the Positive Crankcase Ventilation line or as a replacement for idle-mixture screws. ADAKS Vacuum Breaker Air Bleed Air-Jet Air Bleed Aquablast Wyman Valve Air Bleed Auto-Miser Ball-Matic Air Bleed Berg Air Bleed Brisko PCV Cyclone-Z Econo Needle Air Bleed Econo-Jet Air Bleed Idle Screws Gas Saving Device Grancor Air Computer Hot Tip Landrum Mini-Carb Landrum Retrofit Air Bleed Mini Turbocharger Air Bleed Monocar HC Control Air Bleed Peterman Air Bleed Pollution Master Air Bleed Ram-Jet Turbo-Dyne G.R. Valve Vapor Bleed Devices These devices are similar to the air bleed devices, except that induced air is bubbled through a container of a water and anti-freeze mixture, usually located in the engine compartment. Atomized Vapor Injector Frantz Vapor Injection System Hydro-Vac POWERFUeL Mark II Vapor Injection System Platinum Gasaver V-70 Vapor Injector SCATPAC Vacuum Vapor Induction System Econo-Mist Vacuum Vapor Injection System Turbo Vapor Injection System Liquid Injection These products add liquid into the fuel/air intake system and not directly into the combustion chamber. Goodman Engine System-Model 1800 Ignition Devices These devices are attached to the ignition system or are used to replace original equipment or parts. Autosaver Baur Condenser BIAP Electronic Ignition Unit Fuel Economizer Magna Flash Ignition Control System Paser Magnum/Paser 500/Paser 500 HEI Special Formula Ignition Advance Springs Fuel Line Devices (heaters or coolers) These devices heat the fuel before it enters the carburetor. Usually, the fuel is heated by the engine coolant or by the exhaust or electrical system. FuelXpander Gas Meiser I Greer Fuel Preheater Jacona Fuel System Optimizer Russell Fuelmiser Fuel Line Devices (magnets) These magnetic devices, clamped to the outside of the fuel line or installed in the fuel line, claim to change the molecular structure of gasoline. PETRO-MIZER POLARION-X Super-Mag Fuel Extender Wickliff Polarizer [fuel line magnet/intake air magnet] Fuel Line Devices (metallic) Typically, these devices contain several dissimilar metals that are installed in the fuel line, supposedly causing ionization of the fuel. Malpassi Filter King [fuel pressure regulator] Moleculetor Mixture Enhancers (under the carburetor) These devices are mounted between the carburetor and intake manifold and supposedly enhance the mixing or vaporization of the air/fuel mixture. Energy Gas Saver Environmental Fuel Saver Gas Saving and Emission Control Improvement Device Glynn-50 Hydro-Catalyst Pre-Combustion Catalyst System PETROMIZER SYSTEM Sav-A-Mile Spritzer Turbo-Carb Turbocarb Mixture Enhancers (others) These devices make some general modifications to the vehicle intake system. Basko Enginecoat Dresser Economizer Electro-Dyne Superchoke Filtron Urethane Foam Filter Lamkin Fuel Metering Device Smith Power and Deceleration Governor Internal Engine Modifications These devices make physical or mechanical function changes to the engine. Dresser Economizer Fuels and Fuel Additives These materials are added to the gas tank. Bycosin EI-5 Fuel Additive Fuelon Power Johnson Fuel Additive NRG #1 Fuel Additive QEI 400 Fuel Additive Rolfite Upgrade Fuel Additive Sta-Power Fuel Additive Stargas Fuel Additive SYNeRGy-1 Technol G Fuel Additive ULX-15/ULX-15D Vareb 10 Fuel Additive XRG #1 Fuel Additive Oils and Oil Additives Usually these materials are poured into the crankcase. Analube Synthetic Lubricant Tephguard Driving Habit Modifiers These are lights or sound devices to tell the driver to reduce acceleration or to shift gears. Fuel Conservation Device Gastell Miscellaneous BRAKE-EZ Dynamix Fuel Maximiser Gyroscopic Wheel Cover Kat's Engine Heater Lee Exhaust and Fuel Gasification EGR Mesco Moisture Extraction System P.S.C.U. 01 Device Treis Emulsifier For original source please visit FTC's Facts for Consumers: "Gas-Saving" Products: Fact or Fuelishness?, based on EPA and www.fueleconomy.gov Last Update: April 25, 2004.

For people to dismiss MSD type spark boxes indicates to me they don't understand the theory or results in application. The truth is they are about as necessary on a street car as dual 40's. But if you are like me and are looking for the most performance and drive-ability of an over cammed street unit, they are quite an asset. Long spark duration, high current are important to keep a clean burning engine when overlap has reduced idle stability. It also promotes better plug service in a combustion chamber that dose not lend it self to high turbulence and complete combustion. The boxes enable you to use faster rise time coils, which result in more energy, which allow wider gap, which equals better combustion. If you follow ignition to the latest evolution you will find electronics with individual coils on each cylinder, which equals more energy. Common sense always prevails, if point ignition systems were ok, new cars would still have them. One coil and a set of points are way cheaper than multiple coils, crank triggers, and a spark box with variable duration and dynamic programmable ignition curves.

I don't recall having one on mine, but it resembles the tach connection on the right side of the cluster. Maybe turn it over and follow the trace on the PCB see what it is linked to. Common sense dictates it has some function or they (BMW) would not go to the expense of installing it.

Looks like his place on American Lake just south of Tacoma/Lakewood.

Yes there is a lot of "data" on the internet regarding octane, most of it wrong. Federal law requires all cars built for the U.S. must run on 87 octane. It is for all practical purposes a waste of money to run premium gas in a current production car. Some performance cars are mapped to also run on higher octane. My SHO will make more power on 91, checked it on the wheel dyno, 5 whole horses. But it will run just fine on 87 and 99% of the population will not be able to tell the difference. Now an old car like my 72 Euro Tii with 10 to 1 runs and makes more power on 91, on 87 it pings, to get to stop pinging I have to retard the timing resulting in less power. I also remember my 63 Galaxie 427 came with 12 to 1 and laughed at all but Chevron White Pump (105 octane). Lower octane burns faster and is more susceptible to pre-ignition. Tetraethyel lead when added in the 40's to aircraft power plants was an exhaust valve savior reducing valve temps by modifying the burn characteristics of gasoline. This allowed more boost which enabled a P51 to out pull a ME109 with Nitrous and fuel injection. Glowing exhaust valves are the main source of pre-ignition, and pre-ignition is the limiting factor regarding boost, compression, and ignition timing. Leaded gas is gone and the chemists and engineers have new formulated new compounds to keep pinging under control, some good some bad. I really liked the beryllium-copper exhaust seats. But the life expectancy of the head guys was not good. If you want to learn about fuel, pre-ignition, and detonation, I recommend The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine written by Sir Henry Riccardo. Riccardo's wartime performance efforts resulted in a lot of Daimler and BMW powered aircraft demise. The competition between German and Allied engineers during the war years was remarkable. The Rolls Royce prevailed mainly because of the high quality High Octane Aviation Gasoline available to the allies.

I believe 61611353754 is the part number for those rubber washers. I got them from Blunt, double check the number

I hate cats and people who find them selves above sharing, but "search" is my friend, so now I face a real dilemma. Remember there is no such thing as a dumb question, no matter how many times you may have heard it. Every one who uses the internet knows about "search" that's how most got here to begin with. Search engines can be a mess unless you know the proper terminology. Just point people in the right direction and/or refer them to a URL, thread, a publication or even the correct key word that will make their search successful. You never know when the guy you just chastised for not using "search" might have the part you desperately need and can't afford retail. I think the forum name says it all BMW 2002 Frequently Asked Questions

Valve lash, cam timing, throttle opening, battery and starter, and condition of you compression gauge. All will effect your readings to a point. Compression gauges faults are mostly with the Schroeder valve in the end of the hose, they get dirty and leak. Retarded cam timing will generate less compression, we're looking at two teeth too loose this much and should have no power down low. Throttle opening will effect a test result, but I doubt you will loose 40psi. If being closed choked off that much air it would not start or idle. Simply put if it doesn't spin as fast as it did, the readings will be a little less. If valve lash is so loose to lose 40psi you should hear the clatter coming down the street. If so tight it drops, it should miss, noticeably. So start with the easiest. A-B test the compression gauge with a known good unit. Cylinder leakage test would be my next move seeking the source of the loss if any. If I saw under 10% leak I'd stop there and check the valve timing. This is just how I would approach the problem and solve it

Chances are the pattern is in the nickel or copper base plating that was not properly finished prior to the finish chrome plate.

I don't recall saying it is no big deal, just advocating taking a more analytical approach. Toby's assessment of a head gasket is a good target and I concur. All the oil in my shop is lighter than water, really it is.