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aa/fd

Solex
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Everything posted by aa/fd

  1. I have to take Toby's approach here as the coolant is under pressure and with a gasket or cracked head it would empty itself if ran long enough. There is no mention of overheating or having to add water, just some goo in the radiator
  2. Is there another database source as the www.bmw2002registry.com/ site seems to have gone offline and the FAQ list is US only.
  3. Yes the S14 is an M10, blocks have some small variations of no significance. The front cover and crank snout difference will need to be addressed if hanging a Kugelfischer on a S14. A lot of the performance comes from the S14 electronics, they just run better with the 21st century fuel systems. But a mechanical system (Kugelfischer) can run just fine if you want to put the effort (money) into it. Four valve heads generally have a wider curve to work with as the low lift numbers are way better. The high lift area is not that far apart so total fuel pump flow will not be that far off. The turbo Kfish has an enrichment device included with the warm up unit that compensates for positive manifold pressure. That leads me to believe there is plenty of room in the system for more output. I would consult someone like Wes Ingram to confirm the viability before proceeding.
  4. Do not know the car just saw the add and passing it on http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/1481311057.html 74tii looks nice but expensive
  5. Improper mixture is and can come from a number of sources. Linkage adjustment Warm up regulator, transmitter Warm up nozzel and or timer Dribbling injector nozzels Download the Tii Kugelfischer manual it is pretty easy to follow
  6. I can't tell you about whether all M10 crankshafts are forged or not, but every one I've seen is a forging. Brief Explanation of some crank lingo Cast Crank is poured in a mold (weakest mass production type, though Nodular Iron castings are pretty stout ) Forged Crank, hammered into rough crankshaft shape while red hot by really big forging dies (stronger mass production and performance type) Billet Crank machined from 4340 bar stock or even some exotic vacuum remelt higher end aerospace alloys (strongest limited production aftermarket, big money) Nitride is a surface hardening process utilizing an ammonia quench. It is not very deep and can be ground out in as little as a .010 undersize grind. Hard Chrome is plating of bearing surfaces an excellent repair process for the one rod throw you spun
  7. Try this link he has flow and modified E12 heads http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?p=1536241#post1536241 has some charts and numbers posted A smaller valve is less of an obstruction at full lift and can flow better there, but the low lift numbers are never as good as large valves. The valve spends way more time at low numbers, so it is not a compromise I'd be willing to make.
  8. We used a product called helicopter tape, available from a lot of race supply houses and aircraft suppliers
  9. Not the easiest installation but a Whipple Supercharger is currently the best supercharger made. A screw compressor type positive displacement unit, far superior to Roots type or Eaton units.
  10. The positive crankcase pressure of the M10 has never amused me, but you can't argue with the reliable service history of it. Modern performance engines go to great ends to maintain negative pressure. Even going to the extremes of utilizing vacuum pumps. Modern compression rings, superior oil control rings, and less windage all equal more power. The shower out the oil cap is mostly from the overhead oiling system, but the stuff out the tube is positive crankcase pressure. My stroker project will focus on eliminating + pressure and should draw a vacuum at high speed. I am really tired of the oil film in the air cleaner/oil separator and intake manifold on my Tii.
  11. Just support the differential in place, sub-frame stays bolted in, may as well r&r the cover and fix the leak while your there
  12. Yes on my German spec 72tii it is also a low fuel function
  13. OldGuy speaks wisely, with good information on rod side clearance. The high performance M10/S14/EVO Blocks have oilers provisioned into the block. They spray a stream directly up to the piston. A common practice on Diesel and supercharged engines a significant reduction in piston temperature is accomplished. Unless you are headed toward some aggressive boost numbers it is not a necessary feature. http://www.bmwm3power.com/technics_karim.htm link shows an EVO3 block with squirters
  14. Glad you clarified the setting you made, On a similar problem we found not enough travel and ended up setting the gap wide enough to ensure the large washer cleared the arm by around 1mm, not proper but it ran with correct mixture when warm and worked fine until a new regulator could be found.
  15. I think you really wanted to get the 2.6mm by adjusting the large washer looking thing with the jam nut on the (cone) warm up transmitter. It is the other end of the rocker that you measured the gap on. You are changing an important relationship of the throttle plate to pump by adjusting the link to anything other than 85mm long. I think it is 85, better check the book, I made a fixture to set it just a piece of angle aluminum with some linkage balls set at the proper distance The manual can be a little confusing but it all makes sense after you evaluate it
  16. Oh my I had a 67 Fairlane R code with a factory trunk mounted battery in a box and the whole trunk floor was the top of the gas tank, as were most 1960's era cars. I wonder if it took model rocket motors to ignite the gas on the Pinto during tests, like the faked GM pickup tests. Sure looked spectacular on the news though. I drive my 2002 like it is a Pinto, out weighed 1000lb by everything out there, so don't get hit. You may even have to run a red light to avoid that young lady in your mirror texting.
  17. Actually I think you did the best that could be expected, barring setting there and letting her hit you at speed. That would convey a message, but some one would have gotten hurt. If she in her 16 years of learning did not understand your gift of forgiveness, and the level of her stupidity. Then a ticket from the cops will not have made her any brighter.
  18. not bad for parts euro turnsignals and bumpers, nice passenger grill, no rust in shock towers or tire well, good red center rear lights, been hit in rear see crease in rear quarter. Good parts car will go for 500 or so judging the interest this am
  19. First understand that the hotter/colder range refers to the center wire temperature of the sparkplug. The thinner porcelain makes the electrode hotter, which can be a pre-ignition source if too hot. Yes you can go up a heat range or two but it is not a cure for improper mixture or ignition timing. I fought the rich Tii issue for a while, I even bought a set of new injectors. Then I was told by Wes Ingram to just turn the forbidden mixture screw and magical things happened. Brown Plugs. forgot to answer two questions plug gap is regulated by the quality of the ignition components can they sustain the load increased by widening the gap and not miss-fire, it takes more energy to jump a .060 gap than .025 Higher octane gasoline is less prone to ping (without going into detail) and handles more combustion pressure, the old high lead content from years ago were prone to lead fouling and short plug life, tetra ethyl lead is a thing of the past newer gasoline is not subject to these issues
  20. I will try to be as brief as possible but here my approach to short block service (1) Disassemble and clean all parts, really clean, chase all threaded holes (2) inspect block visual, magnaflux optional, measure main line, deck height determine if mainline is within tolerance and if deck is square to mainline (3) measure bore round and taper determine which oversize pistons needed over bore and power hone to finish size (4) magnaflux crank, measure, check straight, determine undersize needed if journals are round and on size a polish and straightening minimum (5) connecting rods, magnaflux, check big ends for round re-bush pin ends new rod bolts optional (6) replace timing chain and gears, oil pump and chain, chain guide (7) surface flywheel, send rotating assemblie out for balancing If you don't understand the procedure and can't use measuring equipment or do not have access to the equipment you have to trust your machinist of choice. A sleeve of plastigage is no substitute for a set micrometers and a complete set of specs, (like CD makes available to anyone who asks) and manual for your M10
  21. Very well written posts and although I am old school versed and like (prefer) carburetors due to simplicity of design and unless something happens with the laws of physics they always work. That being said the early mechanical injectors Kugelfisher, Rochester, Bosch are very elegant and quite clever in their unique designs. They were expensive and not user friendly, many were changed out for carburetors by frustrated uninformed owners. These early units required a talented tuner armed with more than a screwdriver. The early "tronic" series systems were neither notable or very flexible. Now that we have reached the micro processor controlled engine management systems, we have at our disposal an unlimited resource of tuning tools. Monitoring and providing feed back of any engine function you can think of. Combine this type of data with 21st century combustion chamber design, unobtainum alloys in key locations driven by emission requirements and technological gains in motorsports. You now can buy off the showroom floor supercharged cars that produce hundreds more horsepower than we ever thought possible. So in the true spirit of the hot rodder the aftermarket suppliers have made this technology available to the masses. Megasquirt, Electromotive, and all the rest will bring you tuning by laptop bliss, plus they will run better weather at Pikes Peak or at sea level, 105 degrees or -20.
  22. I can add that my 5 speed was very tight to the top of the tunnel compressed the foam around the shifter mount snugly, your correct about the alignment between the output of the trans and the center bearing. I used a long straight edge and tried to align the whole deal pinion to crank flange. I then tried another approach, one of those laser pointers fastened to the output shaft center pointing at the pinion. It actually worked quite good for this and plus they render "photo cop" cameras very myopic with repeated exposure. My engine mounts turned out to be the biggest offenders.
  23. I think you have the right idea, this manifold like the Tii has a significant equal runner length (longer), which in my mind equals a way better power curve. Adapting a carburetor to it and closing the hood might be a issue. The obvious choice would be a down draft Weber, Holley etc, a lot would depend on the plenum area beneath the logo. It might be wise just to go the megasquirt or 318i Bosch route just because it puts you closer to this century on engine control systems and would just run better. There is a good article in the FAQ engine section on the 318i system adaptation which this manifold is used.
  24. Well if it was mine I'd break down the head and inspect the valves and guides. If I recall the miles on your motor are under 5000 since the last rebuild? A little time lapping the valves to insure seats are where they are supposed to be, at minimum. It is already this far apart try to check everything you can. The "layers" on #1 EX valve is combustion deposits, OK if not black.
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