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aa/fd

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Everything posted by aa/fd

  1. aa/fd
    You have a good point let her soak, it can't hurt. I really can't recommend any shops here as I haven't used any as a customer. TobyB (who posts here) would be a good source for PNW information, check his posts, always informative and helpful. By the way the pistons never did come out of the old Chevrolet six, I had to opt for a replacement engine and it even had pressure oiled rod bearings.
  2. aa/fd
    Long story short my first car was a 1929 Chevrolet, engine stuck, soaked it with every snake oil known to man, for 6 months. Hey I was 14 and had way more time than money. Turns out the rings were bonded to the liners, plus a 29 had cast iron pistons which had joined in the merger. Now this melding of parts was caused by the cracked cylinder head which had released all it water into the holes adjoining the crack. I pried, levered, and even towed around the block trying to free it up for months. Get right to the problem, pull the head and look.
  3. aa/fd
    I believe the previous post covered most of the important and obvious details on why you can loose a rod bearing. I especially endorse the recommendation of not utilizing "plasticgage" as an absolute to determine correct clearances. It is simply not a substitute for measurement with proper instruments. Another possibility is the main bearing clearance was way more than allowed, hence little or insufficient oil supply to the rods. Or simply a dry start-up with no assembly lube and or no system pre lube.
  4. aa/fd
    I am beginning to realize my grandfather was correct, "the smart people all migrated west"
  5. aa/fd
    Well in the PNW all the gasoline comes from the same refinery and is delivered to everyone. The delivery driver (Reinhardt I think is the big tanker contractor currently) may add a jug of additive at the first stop (7-11), go across the street (76 Chevron Texaco Shell or ?)and dump another load in the tank. He may then go to Costco, Safeway, Fred Myer or AM/PM the next trip. There are less refineries today in the US than twenty years ago, it is all marketing/advertising at work (hence the BP endorsement), if you doubt me just ask the next tanker driver you see making a delivery. I used to believe there were superior products and there were, but the merging into the two or three super-sized oil company's has precluded any real difference. Now we just pay a lot for it and have to pump it our selves. I miss the days of getting my oil checked and being short sticked.
  6. aa/fd
    I agree with allbim and would supply the ignition with an isolated power source, separate on off switch less tach connection and give it a test run. If OK add the tach back in to the circuit, if OK then look at the ignition switch as culprit. To me the bouncing tach is a big clue, they only go to zero when the power is interrupted. The dimmer looks like it might have hosted higher wattage lamps for a time in it's service life. Or maybe they just look like that when they are cycled out.
  7. aa/fd
    Just guessing but with all the changes to the ignition and two set of carbs, it might warrant a look at the fuel supply. I seem to recall Weber's are sensitive to high fuel pressure
  8. aa/fd
    Stepped end gap is common in hydraulic cylinder applications, not so common in automotive. Ring end gap is highly over rated, plainly put you have to have some. On a 4 inch bore you can get down to .010 gap with no butting. It is purely academic as .010 leaks no better the a .100 gap. I proved this point on the engine stand to an employee as a learning experience. The bore shape is the primary factor of good leakage. Now John touched on the most important aspect of ring condition, that of the ring being flat so when it is loaded it still seals, limited twisting of the face. My personal ring favorites are: Top, .017 dykes or .043 Plasma, used chrome face stainless for years before plasma Second, Reverse Bevel Ductile, best oil control I've found, used Total Seal and they worked fine but seamed pointless to me Third, 3/16 SS50U 3 piece oil ring will use the PC if mandated by size issues Application issues can become apparent when your favorite not always available in the bore size you are working with. In these cases you use what you can get and maybe adapting the bore finish accordingly.
  9. aa/fd
    Above all it is most important that the bore is round and straight Other than that ring choice (type or material) can be a factor in bore finish.
  10. aa/fd
    Toby, Cow magnets were one of those 70's gas savers people swore by. The magnets were about 3/8 diameter and 2 inches long radius-ed on each end for easy swallowing. The story goes you if taped a pair of with "n" on the same end to the fuel line near the carb and they aligned either the gasoline molecules or the planets and your F250 suddenly got 20 MPG. Over the years I seen at least twenty pairs of these "cow magnets" still attached and every time I see a pair I still LMAO. I was told by multiple sources that yes you got them at the feed store, vet or even back then some parts stores carried them. How they got Elsie the cow to swallow them I haven't a clue. But they apparently protected Elsie if she ate some bailing wire or barb wire.
  11. aa/fd
    I've used every type of fuel and additive known to man touelene, propolene oxide, methanol, ethanol, av gas 100/130, 110/140, 100LL, benzine, nitroethane, nitromethane, Hydrazine, TEL, manganese, Francisco Fire Mist, cow magnets, turbo vapor alcohol/water injectors, you name it. It will all work just depends how hard you want work at it. In the 70's when no race gasoline was available during the "gas shortage" we mixed unleaded regular 50/50 with methanol, re-jetted and it ran great even made a little more power on the dyno due to the anti-knock feature of methanol which allowed more timing. Av-gas, yes we tried it but our home brew was cheaper and made more power and stayed with it until VP Trick and 76 became practical again Two links for your reading pleasure; The first is from Chevron and explains a lot of gasoline mysteries surrounding gasoline octane numbers and additives http://www.chevronglobalaviation.com/docs/aviation_tech_review.pdf And this article covers why automotive gas is not ideal for aircraft and explaines why a re-jet is required http://www.experimentalaircraft.info/homebuilt-aircraft/aviation-fuel.php
  12. aa/fd
    This is a tough one to call, the tin work looks good no panels waving at you, and black paint is the easiest to spot bad body work from. But the lack of "detail" in the color change under the hood and the tow loop on the spare tire well looks like no attention was paid to anything but the surface. It just reeks of used car lot, "a little putty, a little paint makes em' look like they aint" "If you can't trust your car dealer, who can you trust" Dick Balch 1970
  13. aa/fd
    There is a pretty good shop in Malvern, Jenkins Competition 610-644-9328 153 Pennsylvania Ave Malvern, PA 19355
  14. aa/fd
    Nicely done
  15. aa/fd
    yes long stroke = broader torque curve = drive ability
  16. aa/fd
    Yes a carb and manifold can be used but the Tii fuel pump at the tank puts out just short of 30 psi so a change is needed there to, different pump or regulator bypass up front. Known Tii system re-builder Wes Ingram is close in Arlington www.wesingram.com and may be able to get your Kfish up to speed easier than converting
  17. aa/fd
    Let's see yes on the belts I replaced with new replacements, belts have a service life. Seats were vinyl with cloth inserts. Came with a 3.46 gear changed to a 3.91 when 5 speed was installed. Imported in the mid 80's with rust in left rear wheel tub, spring mount. drop me an email for a picture Rust never Sleeps Niel Young
  18. aa/fd
    2708759 here so now we know of two for sure and I found at least 11 more listed on the registry before it error-ed out on me
  19. aa/fd
    Last I checked drag race cars and Nascar motors had carburetors. So pass the Holley jets please son.
  20. aa/fd
    Some compression ratio examples, rules do change and I have not a clue what is going on in F1 6 valve 18,000 rpm artwork Nascar 12x1, early 90's restrictor plate engines at one time were around 18x1, rule changes banned this trick Pre IRL, Indy Cosworth, Ilmore, Offy Methanol burning turbo-charged 11x1 at 45+ inches. Qualifier power-plants were known to be higher occasionally Supercharged Methanol 500ci drag-race engines 13x1 @ 50+lbs. 2500hp+ Supercharged Gasoline drag-race engine 6.5x1 @ 30+lbs Carburetor Gasoline NA. 500ci drag-race engine 14x1+ The current race gasoline is way over the old 100 octane numbers of the old days. Be it Research or Motor scale octane. Gasoline is still limited by detonation in BMEP numbers. Methanol by nature is easier to run up the pressure with turbos or blowers and loves compression. Nitro motors are in another league, just look at them as compression ignition, spark exited, internal combustion engines, limited by structural yields of components in a mobile destructive testing lab Supercharged Nitromethane 500ci drag-race engines sport c/r's between 6.8 to 7.4x1 and reach 50+lbs boost in a tenth of a second. A Kalitta/Goodyear Tire Test 2005 @ PIR revealed the first hard numbers on one of these monsters, 9800ftlbs torque measured at the instrumented rear wheel hubs.
  21. aa/fd
    I suppose you could just bump the seats with your 45 stone, but in order to maintain proper seat width you must cut the OD and ID of the seat. This is proper seat grinding procedure as taught for years. All your stone and cutter sets were in three angles, example 30, 45, and 60 or if a 30 degree seat we used 20, 30, and 60. Adding angles or radii and back cutting valve heads has generated good flow numbers, and real performance gained over the years. Fifty degree intake seats started appearing recently as someone just happened to try it on the bench and the numbers were excellent for the application. But air flow in cylinder heads is a black art and what is good for one type head is not a universal fix for all. Valve incline, port volume, short side radius and bore size play a huge part in the finial result. It is all a question of what compromises you will give in to.
  22. aa/fd
    I think the fresh cast finish you are looking for is called "wheel abraid" which is typical of what Edelbrock and other manifold manufactures used. I believe it is a tumble process with an aluminum specific media done prior to any machining. It is part of the flashing and casting sand removal process. Glass beading and sand blasting do not generate the desired finish, it produces a dirt magnet texture not pleasing after a month or two. Chemical etching, wheel cleaner acid ect. can be effective but will discolor. What ever you do do not run it thru the dish washer and get caught. You'll never hear the end of it.
  23. aa/fd
    Great picture, it is hard to visualize how big those airship hangers really are unless the doors are open.
  24. aa/fd
    Consistency within 5% hole to hole is ideal, with 120 to 160 net acceptable as gauges and operators very.
  25. aa/fd
    John_a Very well written, you address some areas I never even considered, ring availability and which piston vendor has a forging blank compatible. You are obviously well versed in engine design and a source of good data.
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